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Re: anchor draws from the Rifleman

Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 8:35 pm
by tbwilsonky
what gripster said. also a good rule of thumb for booty is to pretend you're not a dick and go from there. shit is bad enough without people using their worthless English BAs to rationalize petty theft.

Re: anchor draws from the Rifleman

Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 8:40 pm
by KD
Solomon would say to "split the draws into two"

Re: anchor draws from the Rifleman

Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 9:11 pm
by krampus
gripster, the pirate brigade has not chimed in because anchors are not booty. I thought you would get this by now. booty is booty, anchors are anchors, even pirates need an anchor

Re: anchor draws from the Rifleman

Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 9:17 pm
by camhead
I'm confused. Why would you leave draws on just the anchors of that route? It ends on a big fricking ledge, they're completely easy to clip. If anything, you would want to leave a fixed draw on the last bolt; clipping that thing is the crux!

There are lots of reasons to leave perma/project/fixed draws on different parts of routes at the Red; safety, convenience,etc. I just can't think of any reason for it on this particular route.

Re: anchor draws from the Rifleman

Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 9:34 pm
by toad857
camhead wrote:If anything, you would want to leave a fixed draw on the last bolt; clipping that thing is the crux!
so, you're saying that one draw should have been left at the crux? (see: booty)
camhead wrote:It ends on a big fricking ledge, they're completely easy to clip.
which makes it pretty much impossible for anyone to say that there were abandoned there out of necessity. obviously, it had to be a conscious decision to leave them there. if someone wanted to go around giving out free draws, they'd probably have an easier way to do so (like going around and giving out draws, for example)

Re: anchor draws from the Rifleman

Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 9:54 pm
by drivel
toad857 wrote:
camhead wrote:If anything, you would want to leave a fixed draw on the last bolt; clipping that thing is the crux!
so, you're saying that one draw should have been left at the crux? (see: booty)
camhead wrote:It ends on a big fricking ledge, they're completely easy to clip.
which makes it pretty much impossible for anyone to say that there were abandoned there out of necessity. obviously, it had to be a conscious decision to leave them there. if someone wanted to go around giving out free draws, they'd probably have an easier way to do so (like going around and giving out draws, for example)
the sun setting on your toprope is not "necessity." it sets in a pretty predictable way, namely, gradually. batman up the rope, as the rope conveniently already goes to the anchors, clean the route and leave. you're going to have to lead it again to re-set the toprope anyway, since you didn't leave a rope up.

and just because it wasn't intentional, doesn't mean it's not booty. say I am cleaning a route on toprope and forget to take a draw off the bolt. and then i leave the crag and don't realize i've forgotten my draw for three weeks. i didn't mean to! but it's still booty. and maybe if i am really nice, and I am like, "yo, i'm a moran, if somebody found a draw on the third clip of BLAHDEBLAH, can they pretty please give it back if we're both at miguel's next weekend??" then i have a chance to get it back. but if i am like "OMG what fucking thief took my one draw off of the third clip of BLAHDEBLAH three weeks ago??!?!?!??!11one" then i'm unlikely to get it back.

Re: anchor draws from the Rifleman

Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 10:24 pm
by KD
It's kinda like girlfriends in that way ya know?

Re: anchor draws from the Rifleman

Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 11:42 pm
by pawilkes
i climbed rifleman on Thursday (10/28) and they were gone at that point. it does seem weird to me to leave full draws on the anchors, i'd probably have taken them.

Re: anchor draws from the Rifleman

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 1:34 am
by krampus
pawilkes, why? it seems like they were left there so the next guy would not have to clean. Maybe I could see leaving two biners, and then useing the other two on the anchors of soul ram. but why take draws of the anchors?

Re: anchor draws from the Rifleman

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 3:06 am
by Rollo
so they don't get taken.