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I didn't say it would be easy or convenient! I thought he was saying he didn't want to have his partner who didn't climb much to belay him. Both those crags have super easy routes, though it is sort of a bitch to set the anchors.

Nah, my friend can belay- just haven't really climbed much. And I can setup natural anchors- that's pretty much what we have to do here in the DC/VA area.

So, it sounds like Indian Staircase would be my best bet. Cool. I will look it up on the guidebook, which I still have to buy.

endercore wrote:I didn't say it would be easy or convenient! I thought he was saying he didn't want to have his partner who didn't climb much to belay him. Both those crags have super easy routes, though it is sort of a bitch to set the anchors.

Well this I agree with.

I think you'd be better off going to the practice wall at Muir--where you could set a toprope
or to the slab at Roadside--asking people to put a rope up for you--people there all share ropes anyway.

In general, the Red isn't really a toproping place, so you won't have many good options for that unless you are willing to ask someone to help you out. Going to a new crag and trying to set up topropes with a person who doesn't climb (when you are fairly new to climbing yourself) sounds like a recipe for an accident. Be Careful!

Have you considered hiring a guide? Sure it's a bit expensive, but you'll be safer and you'll probably have a much better day of climbing.

Check out www.redriveroutdoors.com.

Saxman wrote:Doesn't anyone teach gumbies how to use stick clips anymore?

Oh hell no - that's the last thing they need to learn! Can you imagine the trouble they'd get in. Just read the "ongoing weekend idiot report" - they someone manage to get through a day without killing each other - they don't need to learn new "tricks"

Princess Arch (just to reiterate): DON'T GO THERE TO TOP ROPE WITH NEWBIES!

The access is from the top and you can rappel in, but getting back out, esp if you can't top out the route, is not easy or straightforward.

Top roping at Princess Arch is an adventure you may not want to get into with non-climbing friends.

I tried guiding there once, against my better judgement, but the client was insistent. It was a disaster which also led to an injury: loose rock at the top was dislodged by top rope and hit belayer (my staff) in the hand. Horrible top rope area!

I have to vote for Muir Valleys Practice wall. There will be much more variety for the time you will be there. Indian Staircase is good for setting up a toprope but the "Brain " will bore you because all of the holds are in an interesting pattern that is terribly repetitive. And that is the only good spot to do. Climbing the Staircase is fun for non climbers however.

I can guarentee you that Practice Wall will give you something you can get up to lead, and if not.. . there will be a bunch of folks that would be proud to help you out. There will be a much larger variety of climbs within that small area that is reachable on top of a very nice wide flat ledge. 3 to 4 anchor set ups that are next to the ledge that you can reach easily. Go early.