RRC Archives

Pigsteak you can't be serious. Just go back to your rap bolting. We like it better when you are doing something constructive rather than this pathetic attempt to stir up shit with us number chasers.

pigsteak wrote:

krampus wrote:hell no, you are absolutely right piggy, no send unless its done right. anyone who ever makes the rout easier is weak sauce....period....

thanks for having my back kramp....I am leading the charge to take back our sport. righteous indignation has a place when the bastardization of our beloved past time is getting thrown in the dumper by folks who have no perspective of historical norms.

sport climbing didn't start with you, o wienie number chaser. harken back to the days of pure movement and physicality.

OH BROTHER!!! that almost made me cry when i opened up my memory bank! that is all i'll say about that.

How is climbing in the cold a bad thing? Seems like sending a route is sending a route.

Seems to me the sport has evolved. It's not what it used to be. If you want to bring back a purity you think is missing, take off those shoes. How far back do you need to go before it is pure, again?

Seems to me stick clipping the first bolt is a safety issue. No sense is risking a shattered ankle because you fell 5 foot on a tricky start. Extended draws? They make them for a reason, right?

Maybe the first person to send a rout was 6'7" and they rated it a 10.a. I'm 5'7." Does that give me a claim to say it was an 11.d because I had to dyno for half the moves?

Honestly, I haven't been climbing long enough to have an opinion, but maybe that gives me a fresh perspective.

I climb with tall, strong climbers that reach things I can't quite reach. I also climb with Ditzy who is shorter than I but can do the splits on the wall and high step to her waist. Half the beta I observe does me no good with these individuals. Difficulty is only a matter of individual strengths and weaknesses.

Just my .02. Carry on

what is the sport climbing mandated draw length? What if your using long draws to cut rope drag?

ReachHigh wrote:what is the sport climbing mandated draw length? What if your using long draws to cut rope drag?

excellent question Mr. reach high....spoken like a true traddie.

Please post your specific route in question here, and I will make a ruling as to approprite draw length. I will also be forwarding this link to Mr. Guidebook author, so in later editions he may list approiate draw length for a pure send.

Xtant wrote: Seems to me stick clipping the first bolt is a safety issue. No sense is risking a shattered ankle because you fell 5 foot on a tricky start. Extended draws? They make them for a reason, right?

Maybe the first person to send a rout was 6'7" and they rated it a 10.a. I'm 5'7." Does that give me a claim to say it was an 11.d because I had to dyno for half the moves?


Just my .02. Carry on

Speaking from someone with two shattered ankles, I think it is ok to stick clip the first bolt. And, I don't want to hear anyone complian about being 5' 7" when I am 5' 3"--I would love to have that extra four inches of reach! (and don't give me that crap about it being easier because am light or can step higher)

why does the FA have sole definition of how a line should be envisioned in the first place, seems many bolts that have been retro-ed and/or refitted would knock this outta the park- there are many instances of relocated bolt placements and the world hasn't ended or the grade or quality (or lack thereof) been monumental.. not withstanding recent upper uber reverberations

4 inches of height does not give 4 inches of reach.

pigsteak wrote:
you only clip one anchor, no send.
you pre clip more than the first bolt, no send.
you hang/use any draw longer than the standard issue (ie...no extended, doubled up draws, no velcroed to the wall draws, no 3 foot webbing draws, etc), no send.
you climb a RRG route in under 40 degrees temp, no send.
you use hand warmers, no send.
you bring a thermos or propane heater to the crag, no send.

Are you serious? Are you really that concerned about setting guidelines for a send?

If so, then I guess Ray should bust out a new guidebook ASAP!! One that has all the specs of the F.A. To be fair, clearly we will need temp, relative humidity, cloud coverage, barometric pressure, day/month, height/weight of the climber, diameter of rope, and what shoes they wore. If we don't match it EXACTLY, I say TAINTED!

Quit stroking the ego pole and enjoy the sport for what it is...challenging and FUN!