Placement Question

Post by **overhung** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 5:03 pm

I encountered a similar placement in Morehead a few weeks ago and did not feel good about it. A friend said it was fine, what say you? I know sometimes it's as good as your going to get, but I still say it's dicey.

Post by **everready** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 5:26 pm

In this spot it looks like it would have been better to slot a nut.

Post by **Paul3eb** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 5:26 pm

hard to say since you can't make out the back two lobes.. i'd say i'd be hoping my piece right before that was bomber. i'd be scareder 'n hell to fall on that with the lobes and the flare..

Post by **Don McGlone** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 6:07 pm

Just remember overhung, it could always be worse.

Post by **overhung** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 6:20 pm

True dat. I'd say the placement I encountered was more flaring than this one. My biggest problem on that route, other than fear, was not noticing all the face holds.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 6:32 pm

you know, i'd be scared to, but i'd bet it would hold.

Post by **Jeff** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 6:36 pm

I wouldn't hang my laundry on that cam.
But it's JJ so it's cool.

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 6:37 pm

Dude that placement was bomber! And so was the butt placement JJ had through that section!

Post by **overhung** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 6:41 pm

Butt placement... that's funny. I once performed a chin jam in a moment of desperation.

Post by **dhoyne** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 7:03 pm

It'll probably hold. At least a light fall. There's a bulge in the rock just outside of it which counteracts some of the flaring. Plus, it's angled downward so it shouldn't shimmy outwards. Put a long sling on it, keep climbing, place another piece when you can.

As said, it's JJ. It's not like he doesn't know what he's doing.