Hey, is there anyway to set up a link that will just pull the latest (or all) comments, regardless of route?
Thanks,
Wes
Online guide - Comments
This is a slab, not a jug route. Huge feet, but that usually means the hands are called crimpy.
This is a finger crack.
I bailed on this route a long time ago. Look for my stopper.
This is one of the best. Hard for the grade.
Armadillo - to provide weapons to a Spanish pickle
Most people think this route may be a bit harder than it's current rating.
Best first trad lead in the Red River Gorge.
This route is more of a boulder problem than a route. It's like 20 feet high or something with a nice cushy landing.
Tough fingerlocking in the beginning to an awkward move with a slopey foot. Be sure not to let your right foot slip off and you've got this one in the bag.
If you do this, make sure you skip the first set of anchors 'cuz it gets pretty cool after that. Only like 20 more feet but a bit pumpy.
Move people fall at the very last move on this thing.
Most people run out the last 15 feet or so to the anchors because it's awkward laybacking but if you want to stop, a #1 Camalot goes great.
Haven't done this but I saw it a long time ago. It's extremely short....more like a boulder problem and kind of dirty looking.
When I first did this route I thought it was 5.11c because I armbarred the whole thing. I then found out that it's much easier if you stem it and stay out of the crack for the most part. Bring lots of large Camalots.
This thing is a little dirty at the bottom with an awkward wide section but soon lets up into fine stemming with thin hands. There's a really strange/scary section about five feet from the top so don't lose it.
Towards the top you'll notice that it gets to a strange flared section. It's possible to traverse out right onto the face here and climb jugs to the top. It doesn't look like you'll be able to traverse because you really can't see around the corner but just trust that the holds get better.
I just climbed up through the flared section. It's kinda like chimneying with hands waaaaaay back in the flare.
Take a couple of #3.5 Camalots for the fists section on this route. #3 Camalots will work but they're as tipped out as tipped out can get. If your fists don't feel big enough, reach waaaay back into the crack and use your forearms along with your fists.
Sorry about the FA mixup. I think it is corrected now (using the information from John's guide).
Sorry Martin, FFA: Larry Day 1976,
FFA: Larry Day, Bill Eidson, early 70s.
First Ascent: Day & Piersall, FFA: Souders & Hays
Take small TCUs for this thing. Very thin and kinda painful.
This thing is kinda short but pretty cool. Good introduction to wide hands/fisty stuff.
This route is similar to the first pitch of Rocket Man. The start is a pretty hard boulder problem. Use a hand/fist stack with a knee to get past it.
This route completely rocks. The second pitch is short but is the crux. Bring a couple of large pieces for the second pitch. Great view from the top.
One can make liberal use of the tree and this route will be a bit easier. The crux though is pulling through the last short slot from the ledge. Will be cooler when/if the tree is gone.
The bottom section is kind of pebbly so you may want to use tape.
The runout on this route is towards the top and is on easy face. It's well worth it because the rest of the route is pretty cool.
The runout on this route is after the crack ends to the anchors. The face holds are huge and if you want, you can even get a small stopper in the seam to your right and not have a runout at all.
This toprope is worth doing if you climbed Close To The Edge. Just traverse over and run the rope through the anchors. Pretty powerful climbing.
Beware of stepping on or grabbing the loose block in the crack about three feet from the ledge.
Although short, this route is pretty cool. Bring some wide gear for the first fifteen feet and also for the belay.
This is more of a face climb than a crack climb. Slopey holds and hard placements if I remember right.
This climb is a dirtpile, why does it get a star?
This climb is a dirtpile, too.
You can get a couple of no-hands rests on the ledges.
Doesn't stay dry.
Stays dry in a downpour. The rock is crumbly.
Many people have not had success in finding this route. Good luck trying.
You have to climb a bit of a boulder problem before you can place gear on this thing.
From the ground this looks like it would be pretty easy but it's pretty bouldery. Very short but pretty cool.
This route is a must do.
This route is goofy
I like to lob in a hex on this route, I'm not very good at placing hexes.
No wide crack here.
I know the guy who put this up...go do it now!
this is a very sandbagged route,feels more like 10b does anybody agree
Lead Mr. Bunghole trad acouple of years ago.
Lead trad a couple of years ago.
I can't remember if I did the second pitch or not.
Lead trad a couple of years ago.
Great line, next best thing to Indian Creek, UT. Bring a bigger piece for the top.
Cool topout, might not be 10b, more like 9+/10a. You can also walk off the backside.
Wes
"R" rated, kinda tricky, scary start, but it gets easier.
Wes
Much better then it looks. Great jamming once past the mossy start. Bring a couple big cams for the belay.
Classic old school route. Beware of the 5.8+ grade!!
Bolt moved to make it less scary.
Top is very cool, and not much (if any) harder then the bottom.
Fun route, might be a bit easy for the grade.
Not 5.9, maybe more like 5.7
This route is great and it stays dry in a downpour. Trust me, I was climbing it in one.
Jan 1997 - Cleaned first pitch, led second pitch. Second pitch had fixed anchors.
I think I've only done the first two pitches.
did this route on tope rope after bolting eye of the needle i was going to bolt it but never got around to it
My first 10a trad lead.
i did the first redpoint not knowing neil had not done it yet.
My favorite route at Long Wall.
its a little sporty from the last bolt to the anchors, and there is a hard move up there
great route one of my favorites!!
soled this route the first time i climbed it.
i onsight soloed this route in 1987
Haven't done it since the hold broke.
Sounds like something I've done up there, but I'm not sure.
If this route is 12b nicoderm is 12d
Best route on the wall
not a very good route. sharp pockets and only 1 anchor.
seconded steve faulkner, what a cool route!
one damn hard 5.9
the upper half is cool ,but first two pitches are not good. but nice top out.
Great route if you havent done go do it!
Ooops. That was a typo. Changed to 5.12a.
Cool Larry! Always wondered about that.
A hard start for sure. I think the start is harder than 10a, but after the first few moves the route feels like a 9 if not easier.
Favorite sport climb at Purple Valley.
Ha, who gave it that name!?
Agreed Wes, one move down low that can be somewhat off balance or maybe even height dependent, then 7'ish climbing.
Scratch that "freely ascended" part, Ray. I led the first (clean) and second pitches (not clean). While doing P2, part of the roof crack which I was using as hold ended-up in my hands as I found myself dangling from a blue TCU.
More like 9+ then 10b.
Only "R" rated if you don't have a #5 camalot or #6 friend.
Bottom can stay wet for a while. Top is crux, but you can get pretty good rests most of the way,
Wes
You can go to the top with one rope in a single pitch. Two ropes or one 70 will get you down. Great night time route if you are camping and roadside.
More like 5.8 or 5.9-
Great roof crack, upper part is pretty pumpy. Beware of loose rock. Esp. if there are people climbing clypso II.
Wes
You can link whiteout direct and whiteout into one 120 foot mixed route @ 5.8. Two ropes will get you down in one rap.
Don't let the R rating scare you away, you can get really good gear the whole way. Just bring some TCU's and two sets of stoppers.
damnit!
Bend Over, Here It Comes Again
I did because nobody knew the name and the guy who put it up also built the via ferrata.
This route sucks!
I pop wood whenever i think about this route!
I get boners every time i imagine climbing such a wonderful route.
I'm pitching a tent right now!
This is the most horrifying route in the galaxy.
This route sucks, but it gives me boners!
FA: Gehrig Austing, Spring 1997
I mean "Austin"
Spring 1997
My first lead, 1978.
forget the second pitch
fun as hell,lets go do it.
I feel bad for whoever breaks off that hold. You know, the big one that you can see flex when you grab it.
One of the best summits in Kentucky.
Mmmmmm! Mid-way sit down rest! I like it! The start bulge could be tough for some, and the chunk after the ledge could be tough, but really and easy, fun 10b tick!
Great long moderate route. Definitely an epic for timid 5.8 leaders.
This is a good summit route for crowded days. Link it up with Oozing Couth. It can be quite enjoyable.
Stellar route! Definitely worth the walk.
I agree with Mr. Ellington, but would like to add that the aforementioned runout could be quite dangerous for the second climber.
This is not a good top rope route. Anchors would be nice.
Good solo. Bad downclimb.
I think we always knew that this would get downgraded once it was clean. The fingercrack above the roof used to be full of dirt. After climbing it a few times I cleaner it out. What is the new consensus grade? 5.11+?
-Tony Bubb
I may have cheated a bit to the left, as it felt a bit too easy....
PS- The FA was with John as listed, but that was not the FFA- I was in an air-cast on my left foot and aided it that time. It was freed later with a partner from a gang of folks who were there, Jerry Bargo, Willie Hunt, Mike Heffner, Mindy Huddleston, Darren Livingston,and a frind of Bob Shire's named Kyle (Kyle Harris maybe?). -TB
With rope stretch you can make it with one 60m.
i saw some retard ascend this crack. he was skinny and naked with nothing but a blunt. i didn't catch his name, but he whispered, "I am not the magma, I am not the pleth!" as he crawled down the trail.
I liked the alternate start that Hackworth and I did sometime in the mid 80s.
Wasn't this rated 5.4?
This is the kind of route I was always looking for in the gorge, but rarely found. Back in the 70s we walked past dozens of unclimbed lines that are now famous, driven by visions of routes like this. Relatively long for the gorge, and a little stiff for the grade, this climb is one of the best.
Fun climbing down low, but the fierce finish and spectacular top out is what this RRG classic is all about.
Well, not the hardest, nor the prettiest, nor the most anythingest route.
Okay all you crazies, don't be bashful, if you've done it spray! 'Cause it was so much fun I done it twice.
Pitch one, aka The Corner is 110 ft. Pitch two is just 45 scary ft.
What I meant to say was, Gee Johnny!, you're doing some mighty obscure routes. Is there anything you won't climb? Then I remembered Tower of Power, oh, well.
Ed and I freed it all but for one slimy move in the algae coated final slot. Guess we could have gone back, but we both had bigger fish to fry.
I hope I'm not on the route when it becomes "Blue Popping Off Plate Special" 5.8!
Good find you made there Tony!
5.11+ sounds good to me.
This is a cool route. It really ought to see an ascent every once in a while.
The sit down rest has a nice view, and good breeze on a hot day.
11c ** 80 ft. FA: me 2/2003
try 11a/maybe b
12c
12c
12b
13a concensus with the new finish
12c
As a historical note, Jeff did the FA with an eight foot sling hanging down from the anchor below the last long move, which is a factor in the finality of the ascent. I don't know who actually did the true FA. Possibly Brian Toy.
As an historical note, this route was done on trad gear only originally. The Bolts were placed after significant peer pressure was brought to bear on the FA.
This is a pretty spooky route, with terrific position. Feels real good to get to the top.
ain't no 5.2
What a great route- one of the best 5-8s in the Red
Not worth much once was plenty
not bad mixed route- Someday i will replace the pitons w/ bolts(w/ FA permission)
Hard to find anchors to belay the second
Tricky pro at the start/ Crap anchors at the top/ needs Fixe rings
IN FEBRUARY 1999 TWO OTHERS AND I FREED THIS AND THEN SET UP ATYROLEAN TRAVERSE TO THE TOP OF THE TURRET. PROBABLE FIRST TRAVERSE ASCENT.AS PROOF NOTE THE BROKEN LIMB ON THE LARGE PINE. RQ
This route is great!! Love it Terry
I Mark de Saint-Rat climbed this in the company of Steve Must and Tom Hayes
in 1986-7-8 using a #3 friend bought from Larry Sickman and a big sidways bong after the crux.
10a
There is another route to the left, about five feet, or so.
FA: Saturday May 4th, 2002. 2A Saturday May 4th, 2002?
FA: Saturday May 18th, 2002, also 2nd, and 3rd. Thanks for the hangers T-bone, and bolts Gregg. Chain and caribiner anchors.
i think this route should be bolted. the sport climbers would really appreciate this one.
this route is like old popcorn. in many ways it's good, but you could definitely go for something better.
Very cool route... Gripping finish moves. I'd say this is as much of a must do route as Sunshine and Moonbeam.
fadfasd
Yes Agree also, climb is definately a 5.7 or 5.8ish!
Definately needs to be downrated, maybe to a 5.8 or even 5.7, but a good little first pitch up to whiteout
You know why this route is called "Sam Krieg Will Bolt Anything" ? Because Sam Krieg bolted it and got the FA. He has several alternate identities, however, Jeff Moll is not one of them. It's a good route only no one get's on it.
Took me three tries and a conversation with Jonny to find this one. Short but sweet route.
Two #1.5 Tricams protect the "R" section quite nicely, but you still have to do the scary step down to get the the start of the route.
Too short to warrant any stars.
Really just a variation start to The Refrigerator.
I was also part of the FA party.
I was also part of the FA party.
FA
5.7 my ass.
Wes is not leading you astray; it protects fine.
This route truely sucks.
SWEET! Don't skip the second pitch! You can probably fire it in one long pitch if you have the right rack and mind your rope drag.
Climbed the first pitch but as I started belaying my follower, the rope sucked back into a finger crack through a bulge. The rope drag was so bad I couldn't belay! A tightly seated nut in the right place might have prevented this spoiler.
Putting anchors on this route would detract from the "Lunatic Fringe" experience!
Yes, that is a huge run-out in the middle between bolts. Yes, you would make a spectacular groundfall. But it is easy, secure, low-angle climbing through that section. Quit doubting yourself and do it!
Rather, FFA, Jerry Bargo, April 1994
Pretty cool route. I didn't have any problems sinking Aliens in the beginning.
I saw nothing which would warrant an R rating for this route.
The approach is more arduous than the climb,but the view is worth it.Pinnacles are just cool.
Actually this route has a second pitch to it.
It's only 5.7 if you think Muscle Shoals is 5.8....
my first 5.11
I think the grade is right on.
the dihedral to the right of eureaka is 'Howard Roark' FA Alexis Scott. 5.9+/10a
Check out the cool 5.9 dihedral on the other side of the arete.
From what I remember, the gear was kind of dicey on this thing.
i think this route is overrated
I cleaned this route up a bit when I did it so hopefully it will stay clean for awhile. If not, take the time to clean it up. It's well worth doing. Kind of like Crack Attack but about 2-3" wider.
This route is long and sustained. Very cool climbing. A little dirty for the last five feet but the climbing is easy there.
Did I mention that this route is long and sustained? My gosh, this thing rocks. The picture doesn't do it justice.
Taken from someone's post (CBP). Hope you don't mind!
========================================
Oh Man! Trad Multi-pitch: Fear And Loathing In Nada.
Funky cracks to a nice sit-down ledge belay(5.9, 75'), where you hang out and watch the poor bastard who gets the second pitch fist-jam his way out the overhanging, slanting crack that widens to a cool-ass thrutch to the top!
Second only to The Quest.
=====================================
best in the red
Aptly named
good but short,nice topout
this climb looks sick
who says the red doesn't have slabs?
This is my favorite route in the Red!!!
this is my favriot climb in the red
This modern downrating is getting out of hand!
There are actually three bolts on the route. The first is apparently the original bolt. The two upper bolts were on it when I first did it about 5 or 6 years ago.
Bruce Adams and Dave Scott put this route up.
Bruce Adams and Dave Scott put this route up.
I found no bolt.
er, scratch that. I forgot that I fell.
Steller route.
One of my favorite climbs of it's grade - great for introducing new ppl to the world of trad!!!
Dave (traddave7@yahoo.com)
Ditto on the run-out
The second pitch of this route is very cool. Good steep climbing and no choss contrary to popular belief.
The first bolt is no longer there. Stick clip the second bolt to start.
This route is actually about 50 feet past the dirt ramp.
Way overrated. The only 10b move is the bulge; but most people cheat left. More of a 5.9 than a 5.10b.
One of the most esthetic lines at The Red, and a killer ride!
Can you say, "Pile" all together boys and girls...."Pile"!
Rad upper sidepull pocket crux sequence, best line on the wall, in my opinion of course.
Definitely the hardest one of the 3 lines on this wall.
I actually inserted my entire body into the wide horizontal break in the cliff up high on the route and laid completely down on my back.
A hidden gem...great 12a if you are looking for a shorter one.
Cool if you like green rock!
About time somebody put 12b on this thing... hardest one on the wall!?!
Multiple knee-bars take the sting out of this one. Very fun.
I agree. This is a stellar multi-pitch outing.
I did this a couple years ago before the area was closed. Please don't climb these routes, they are not worth loosing the entire George over. Thanks.
Cool different type of route for The Red.
This one will get and keep your attention all the way to the anchors.
I did this back in 1993 or 4... it was a good time.
More like 5.10c.
(I didn't place the gear so call it a pinkpoint or whatever you want)
It's a 5.9+ in my opinion, unless you are 7' tall.
I'd give it 3 stars. What a fine route!
Is the death defying exit move really only a 5.8?
Having done all of the routes from Kampsight to C-sharp - this is the most challenging of them all. The first section has lost most of it's holds, making the moves pretty delicate. And the crux section in the middle is a bit beyond 5.9 in my opinion. Overall, I like the route - but think the grade might fool some people.
Ray is correct, the second pitch of this route is way steep and way cool... fun climbing.
Aretes don't get much prettier than this.
Yikes! Those flexy holds going for the anchor are scary!
No anchors, only very small tree (backed up with long slings). I personally think that the top part is PG-13/R.
Gear is good after ~30 ft mark.
only did first pitch
I led all the routes on this wall for the first time this week and think there are three 9+ sections on this climb: to the first bolt, a thin facey section in the middle and the bulge right below the anchor. Were it not for big ledges between the tough moves, this would be a 5.10a for sure.
An offwith,Has some cool 5.6 moves,it's just really green and vegetated
LOL Johnny... 3rd class, eh, Ray? Man...
I agree that this is probably harder than a 5.9, especially the sketchy beginning and pulling the buldge at the end. Although, I bet it might be a 9 if you use the crack way to the right at the top to help pull the bulge.
Amen, tomdarch! Every hold sketched me out!
Yeah I'd like to thank Terry for the "scissors" beta. What a fun and different route!
3rd class, 5.14, what's the difference?
This route is naned Oil's Well That Ends Well
its not C it is B
Easier than 8-Ball in my opinion
Dosen't deserve 3 stars
Worst route on the wall
Best 12c anywhere
A single 60m rope will get you down from the bolts at the top.
Holy Shit, how did my pic get on here??????? Thats cool and all cause i know i look good, allthe ladys want me!!!!!!!!!!!
This route rocks. Unlike any other route in the Red.
This route sucks
Flashed! Scarry 3rd to 4th bolt.
OK climbing...BBBB to its right is much better and really not that much easier than this one.
Three stars? Please...try one! Buff & Stain are three star routes..this most certainly is NOT!
Post a pic!
I agree, this climb is wonderful, except the end. I had to clip the anchors from a lop-sided softball looking hold a foot to the right of the anchors.
Yeah, there is a lot of dust at the start and at the ledge on the top, but I thought it was a lot of fun. Good climbing and good pro. It is worth doing.
Yeah, there is a lot of dust at the start and at the ledge on the top, but I thought it was a lot of fun. Good climbing and good pro. It is worth doing.
Well, I'd be careful now rapping from the rhodo. I just noticed it is now infested by termites so it's a time bomb.
Unless you have a #6 Friend you'll have to run the first fifteen feet out.
Very different style for a lot of people. It was fun figuring out how to use my ass properly. Most of the people I talked to said they hated it. I loved it myself.
I added a direct finish to route in 92 that goes over the roof above the ledge. .10a R (there is no pro up there)
this is one of the best routes in the red
I added a direct start to this in spring of 01 by climbing up through the dirty moldy chossy black rock where the crack terminates .10b
yeah, I did. What about it motha fucka?
Where did you get the name? Its name is just Green Horn. FA Hugh Loeffler
I fired it with my dick shoved up power2u's blown out ass clit.
These are both fun little routes with a short approach. Worth the stop on your way to Sky Bridge of Funk Rock.
Really fun climb. Moderate climbing for 4 bolts to a good rest then great face climbing that requires a lot of attention, on-sight.
I got on this for the first time this past weekend, f'n awesome! I'll be back for more.
I did the original line on Saturday the May 3rd... it goes at 13a...MY FIRST 13... YEEEHAW! 10 tries, and it felt great when I did the boulder problem up high!
That ain't shit compared to 5.15 buddy. You have a long way to go.
this thing is no 5.2
My first Trad Lead Ever!!! (Something to be proud of???)
FA Barry Broley
FA Chris Martin
FA Rob McFall
FA Neal Strickland
FA Rob McFall
FA Jason McClennan
FA Neal Strickland
FA Rob McFall
FA Rob McFall
Cool climb... I don't know why nobody gets on it. It really isn't all that bad I did it on my second try. Almost onsighted it, fell at the last bolt. The one move at the 3rd bolt is reachy but hey what are you gonna do...just climb it!
Wasn't this thing called Little Dinosaurs originally?
Great route! More endurance than bouldery...more like 12bish too, climb, enjoy, repeat.
Almost got the onsight and fell outta the "kiss your ass goodbye" stradle after you come outta the roof and onto the arete. Sent it next go! Definately one of the best routes ive done for the grade at the red!! GET ON IT!!!
I was there the day it got bolted and we all marathon climbed it to get alot of rock that was chipping off. I thought the route was okay. Sounds like it is in good shape now. Havent been to military in years
Worst climb i've done in the Red
Don't be afraid, just tape your fingers, wrist, elbows and hope tendons don't blow like guitar strings!
I followed the first pitch clean and led the second. Need to go back and lead first pitch.
Awesome, deserves ***!
Great route, one of my best onsights, just goes on forever.
ditto
most people start with second bolt clipped
That flexy jug at the top is kinda sketchy! When it blows and it will, it is just a matter of time, this climb is going to be much harder... so you better get on it soon. One of the best 5.10's around.
You better have some crack climbing skills for this one. I clipped the anchor off a fist jam and used several bomber finger locks on the way up. Exciting Route!
12b is accurate. Hard move at the 3rd bolt and then a bouldery little section around bolts 5 and 6... then mostly jugs to to the anchors. Pretty fun really.
Great crimping to a cool sitdown above the last bolt and above the trees. Then air it out to the anchors.
Another good one...don't forget the crux runout to the anchors that make this one worth while.
Bolts are all chopped but there is one at the top to TR on if you have a huge stick to set it up with and don't mind the king swing if you fall off!
The name of this route is, "Straight out of Campton"
this route sucks bad. deserves no stars. seriously. - matt
Cool route, but I still like Steelworker better.
I love this route. It's definitely another Terry Kindred classic!
clean aid my ass. maybe with the love-tron
i think it was called your a gay-ass shitbag.
I think this felt about 5.11c.
this boulder problem was done by alot of people before tony bubbs ascent. 3 in one day in 1990.
you're not allowed to use the gargantuan hueco on the route. SCEC will be after your ass.
Man, these holds hurt my hands. Sharp jugs.
warm up! Gosh dang it I need to learn how to lead.
it's called the embargo
i might have this first lead of this route 1987
nice...real nice. I'd like to do it again when it's not pitch black and freezin' cold!
This route fucking kicked my ass!
awesome- perfect stone, great moves
I always call this route "cum and she'll like ya"
I'M GONNA F*CK IT UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wow! That's incredible! You're probably the only one who's ever been on it and coming back for more. What weekend did you get on it? What a pile of useless information to go in a guidebook dickwad. The least you could do is post when you're going back, so we could avoid you.
Un Pile!
Horatio you are the MAN!
corrected route name is "mona lisa overdrive" - and it ain't a 11a - try b/c
fa rob mcfall
Watch for loose rock, I was pelting my belayer!
FA by Chris Chaney and Brian Rogers.
No, I really didn't lead this route. It truly sucks though.
This wall is a pile.
Disgustingly dirty.
One of my favorite RRG multi-pitch routes!
You were off route or blind. I clipped that sucker!
Soloed this way back before I knew what climbing was.
My first 5.10 lead. And a great one at that.
Had it clean on TR until I got hung up in a dead branch at the top out. Great route!
I felt it was more like 5.9 R. I don't remember rap anchors, we rapped KY Pinstripe.
one of the best routes at the red... very hard for 12c. i think its more like 12d
Okay, so I only completed the first pitch when I wimped out trying that first roof.
BTW, I left a black Metolious cam on the ledge.
Yes it does suck. Maybe its the Gunkish rating.
To the first anchors (5.11a). Are you kidding? There are no holds after the lower anchors ;o)
Great route.
In "my book", the first 2/3's gets *** and the last chossy 1/3 gets -**'s - what a fine choss pile!
If I don't get it by this Fall, it'll be an open project.
This is 12a like Baremetal Teen is 12a.
Im almost posative that Dave Hume got the FA on this, about 2 years ago
er, it's a tad longer than 55' - more like 75'?
5.10c! We were debating 5.10a vs 5.9!
Pretty cool bouldery moves through the first two bolts. Long route. Kind of turns into huge pebbly jugs for the last few bolts though.
I wish I knew the anchors were gone before I climbed it. I traversed all the way to the anchors on Armed.
It deserves another star. Great first pitch. Might be a 10c too.
Rap off rap station above Whiteout - one rope (with stretch) to ground.
Way easier than Ro Shampo.
What rat-baby meant to say was, "Good job man that thing is cool... too bad I suck and can't climb it."
Definately a one move wonder, although the one move can be avoided! But deinfately a classic! a must do!
OS to 1st anchor
no one cares
the coolest stopper placements in the Red- water grooves rule
Classic RRG 5.6- river crossing/bushwack/big hill/crappy 1st pitch/ great payoff pitch w/ cool exporsure and top out!!!
every climber should do this route as a rite of passage into RRG climbing
Some love it -some hate it , The payoff pitch is great!! check out the orange and green dayglow lichen
One of the best 5.7s in the southeast!
waiting for a grade conformation, let me know
Both pitches add up to about 100 ft. Save a big piece (~ #4 Camalot) for the short offwidth at the top. Rap station on tree to the right.
very runout!
definately the hardest of the routes from kampsight to C sharp B flat, would agree on a 9+, 10a rating
And I don't care that no one cares because I climbed it for me not you. I am psyched for my own accomplishment.
I lead the route, finding an obvious crux solution that Jerry Bargo had 'missed' I was Belayed by John Cioci. I think Jerry came up the cliff after this and joined John and I on "She Loves Me." I am not certain or have forgotten if Jerry climbed the line when it was originally freed.
On the first ascent, which was done without cams, I placed a 10" tube chock in a horizontal 1/2 way up for pro.
-Tony Bubb
Mike Heffner and Willie Hunt? Where's the Love? I was on the FA, as was Mindy Huddleston. In fact I believe I belayed Mike- it was his first FA.
Also- a reasonably sized loos rock was pulled off of this route on the FA and more may remain. Careful!
-TonyBubb
Jerry cam up the hill and tied in as the 3rd of the FA party here.
The name came from John's uncertainty of the gear as he went up, reporting the status as good or bad by shouting down, 'she loves me' or 'she loves me not.' As most of the gear is quite good, the route was named she loves me.
-Tony Bubb
Not Kyle, Cale Schaffer, I think.
Porter did this crack free solo for the FA.
Why are you people so mean?
I think this is one of the best 5.11d routes in the Red.
Wow What a route! Yep, whoever breaks that hold off is going down!!!!!!
Grungy start, big easy pockets, sit down rest, crimpy wandering face....?
only did the first pitch
I always figured this would be the gorge's first 5.13- when the rest of the holds broke off.
It was rated 5.4, Larry, but when I did it in maybe 1992, I felt it was closer to 5.7 or 5.8. Consensus said it was harder than your rating suggested- and I *AM* a trad climber, so I think it's fair. Some of the parterns I had fell/hung on this but flashed sunshine/moonbeam.
I've seen some pretty good climbers get totally stumped on this line. we always said 5.9+... +what, I don't know. a #4 camlot is nice to have in the roof belay.
This route was a lot harder before the big tree fell at the base in 1992 and eliminated the first roof moves as the earth was raised there.
You can get a few tricams in under the roof and a few more after- thin TCU's might go as well, but it's actually solid climbing and you don't have to sew it up. Did laps in 1993/1994 on 3-4 peices of solid gear when I had the head not to place too much and get pumped. THe crux is NOT the severe overhang, it's toward the end.
The yardstick 11d sport at RRG when I was there. Great climb it was!
Pretty hard/awkward. Solid at it's grade.
The runout comes early and you are fresh when it does- plenty of gumbies have survived this lead. It was one of Power2U's first trad leads... heh heh heh...
Awkward and thrutchy good-time fun!
Pumpy layback up top for 5.8 climbers.
I origionally wanted to name this line "and now for something completely different" as it has a little of everything. Sadly, I fell on the FA attempt and Jerry Bagged it first.
Named for the texture of the rock.
I have to agree that this is a classic at it's grade!
Hard at it's grade if you have small hands- for once the crux is more than just pulling the lip!
The first, adn I believe ONLY climb I ever left a peice in in the Red (red tricam under the flake a partner hung on could not be cleaned).
I went with "G.I. Jeff" (Jeff Dul) to climb this one- I lead it all, I think. it was funny to see a 5.12 sport climber on this. He was a good sport about it, but later said "that had NOHTING to do with climbing."
Maybe a little hard at the grade. I'd suggest 5.10.
Stiff at the grade.
Great route and really fun. A good prerequisite for the beenestalker- not quite as hard, in my opinion, and with good gear the whole way.
Not the classic that the guides claim...
The routes main merrit is the fun way of popping through the roof. It can be a grunt, or an interesting and gymnatic affair.
Great finish done as one pitch off of the top of Hardcore Jollies- it's like the finish that should have been the whole time and makes the route full-length.
Fun climb and good jamming- should get more traffic than it does.
The rating is down to it's original rating then...
This climb gets slimey with high humidity- or at least it used to. Maybe with the higer traffic in the 90's it has cleaned up a little?
Shame to hear that someone took one of the original test-peices (mental) and bolted it. I would have thought that this diversity at the wall would have been more valued than another squeezed-in bolt line.
Short crux- one of my first 12 on-sights. Felt easy at the grade.
This route was origianlly rated 5.10 and was hard at the grade. I don't know about 11d though?!?! did holds break off?
with the draws haninging and beta being spwewed, this was a fascinating flash...my drawers would have been wet if I had to on sight hang em though.
I have never been so scared on any thing of this grade before. Realy skews the mind.
When does 'Fall' officially start?
This was my first lead climb outside. It was great and hope to go back and do it again.
you can sling a plate if you want
This lead keeps your attention. Felt a bit harder than 5.11a.
This climb was a waste of three bolts and chains.
Sorry, HF I agree with bberlier this route kicks ass and deserves 3 stars.
Like the Rifleman, this route is awesome and deserves 3 stars!
Heinous crimping!
Does this thing really suck that much or did someone forget the stars??
Jerry did get the FFA. I did it the spring or fall prior with Willie, but I fell on lead and Willie followed- no clean FFA until Jerry did it later. At the time, I was "sent on it" with someone and when I told Jerry I could get it next go, he suggested that he found the cliff and the line (true, that) and would appreciate out staying off of it. So we did not try to lead it again.
I thought this line was known as The Audition or That Golden Flake
must ... resist ... erf ... must ... not ... cheat ... to ... tree
Don't be scared off, the holds are there where you need them to keep it a 10a. Very cool because the moves are so different than most routes at the Red! (more like some limestone areas)
heady, but fun
11b? More like 10d/11a.
My plan is working. I'll change the name.
The tree is cheating?????
Wes took the longest lead fall I've ever seen, on this route! Scared the hell outta me!
no, i really don't think it does. a one move wonder at the anchors. i guess if you like mule dicks covered in snot then it deserves 3 stars. if you like good routes, however, do something else.
unlike the rifleman, this thing kicks ass!
This route is really good classic red river pocket pulling. 2-3stars for sure. If you start from the boulder its about 11a/b, if from the ground, 12a. Have fun figuring out the anchor clipping sequence!
Geez. My 100<sup>th</sup> RRG on-sight.
Geez. My 100th RRG on-sight!
My 105th RRG on-sight.
FA: Greg Martin, 2002
This may be blasphemy, but I actually like this line better than Breakfast Burito.
If this is the last bolted line before the crack it is harder than 10a. More like 10d.
I didn't use the bolt, but don't do that.
One of the best routes in the Red!
Your belayer may need an umbrella and a helmet - dirt and the occasional hold rain off this route - may be harder than 9+ when it cleans up.
8 bolts
8 bolts and a single quick link for lowering
Deserves ***!
Whoops, I had two routes mixed up, that comment applies to Long Live Trad, not Willie's Way.
The story on Willie's Way is that Willie scoped it and was going to do it, but when he did, he found Jerry-the-scammer's Business card up top. Not too cool, considering the story about Long Live trad in which we pulled back from hitting it. Hmmm. Not saying I don't like Jerry, I do, but he's a route scammer.
This thing has to be one of the best pure endurance routes at the red. 100 feet of great climbing on very different, highly featured rock. Another overlooked gem.
Pretty dirty and crumbly for the first 40 ft. then about 20 feet of cool fist jamming. The tree with the original anchors was rotten so I had to top it out through 10 feet of chimney. Bring large gear for the first 40 feet.
more like 12a or 12b
Solo with an ascender for self-belay.
Does it really merit no stars??
mmmm, tasty
if you can climb the chimney frontwards or backwards, how can the bolts always be to your left???? arghhhhhhh, my head!!!!!!!!!
You can probably remove the x rating since the jumbled pile of rock has been romved from the base of this.
How about Dec. 13.
It's called Dipto Dopto, not Dotto.
Great route. I loved it. Beautiful view from the top.
Very cool route. Great view from the top.
Definitely one of the coolest 5.10 routes in the Red.
more like power2u: I suck at climbing so I fucking spray to every one about the routes I"ve done so I look better and peope think I'm cool when really they just think I'm a dumb ass clown who talks shit about routes that every one else and their mom climbed a million years ago. More Power2u: I'm a 5.12 climber cause I do like a million routes a day. Hey guys! whats up? I'm over here and did all these lame ass gumby routes today. Don't I look like a big peice of sun baked shit? rat-baby says: It's amazing how the people who suck have the most to spray about.
Chester FA'd a sport route!!!
I love this route.If you get into the heuco,you can hear your heartbeat. I rate this 5.10d **
I would rate this climb 5.11a *
cool route.stay on the arete for the anchors.5.9 *
I'm working this route right now.cleaning it up with a brush.lots of moss.so far i have gotten a no hands stance for clipping the third bolt.(knee bar right,lay hard to the left).A sit rest after clipping the fourth.and break-your-heart crimpers up to the slab part of the arrete.clipping the anchors is a breeze with a huge jug.
5.12a-b ***
Easy for the grade.
Why doesn't somebody just add another bolt to this thing?
I believe this route to be called "De-Spare" and it was put up by Blake Bowling.
Posion Ivy around the anchors in the summer
Who labeled this as a 3 star route? What moves were stellar enough for this type of claim? 1 star at most. Especially since most of the holds are bound to pop off sometime soon.
Felt like 5.11c up to the first anchors. Very cool route.
10d
5.8
I was calling it "Seeing Red Again"
Trad route. Start 25' rt. of Mystikal. Climb a crack on the face and slot on the right to a rhodo ledge. Traverse left 15 feet to a broad ledge and belay to avoid rope drag. Head up an overhang and gain a finger to handcrack in a dihedral. Pass an offwidth slot near the top and reach some anchors after a dicey slab move. 90 feet.
FA: John Bronaugh, Ryan Adams 2003.
I think Kellyn Gorder did this route, perhaps with Blake.
I thought Kellyn Gorder did this route?
**+
I thought Blake did this route.
FA by Jason Burton and Steve Kaufmann
10c...yeah, right.
10c...yeah, right.
wrong photo
Don't forget to bring stuff smaller than #2 if you want to live. In general bring plenty of everything.
Oh yea, this route is scary, technical and down right challenging and very cool.
It's as good as it looks. Levetation from heaven. Read the route description before you bushwack to the wrong crag on a hot humid day.
I don't think Scott Hammond bolted this route. Terry and Blake did this route.
The route is called Curtain Call bolted by Terry Kindred.
FA: Mark Jackson and Bob Metheney.
It is called The Audition. FA: Terry and Blake.
What a crappy route.
correction I haven't freed it yet
more like a 10d-11a.no kidding
I'd say 5.10a is right on.
Saw some dude onsite this thing. It looked pretty cool.
I had to chain at the top; I didn't see any cold shuts
Not for the aspiring 5.10 leader.
This is one of my favorate and probably one of the most underestemiated cool sport route at the red.
Why this has 2 stars and One Brick Shy only has one star I'll never know.
Another good short route...lots of fun once you climb the first 2 moves which are kinda grungy and green.
Man this is a dirty route. Still lots of loose rock. The ring anchors are gone.
There's no way this is a 5.8. 5.7 more likely. 'Penalty Box' (5.6) was harder than this one. Great route though.
For a 5.6, this is a pretty rough route. I thougt that 'Big in Japan' was easier than this on.
For this to be a 5.7, you need to stay way to the right. But then you have to reach way to your left to clip the bolts. I guess it's a change-off...
This route was a trip. Definitely a must-do. If you don't know how to dance when you climb you will by the time you're done with this on. It's a really fun climb if you pay attention.
Whoever bolted this route (bottom half) hates people. The upper bolts are in line with where they should be, bottom half sucks. Evil Chimney.
How did this get 2 stars? Also, what's the deal with the anchors at top being put in a bass-akwards way? Route needs 9 draws, plus anchors.
Fun, Fun, Fun, Fun... Yippie, thank you to the person that bolted this route for me.
This is a must do.
You know... I completely forgot to turn around and look at the view from all of these routes and now I'm kicking myself. Will need to get back down to The Red soon. Great climb.
Oops. Fixed it.
This route is definitely a 5.8, especially since a lot of holds have broken off of it since it was put up. It's being uprated with the permission of the FA.
fun route by the way! Easier on lead than on top rope for some reason.
it's a sport route - so the tree is off. But the chimney is on?? Fun route, regardless.
This route is no harder than the routes to the left of it.
Why would this route have an R rating? Upon casual observation it appears to be a continuous OW. I don't know much about trad but I bet if someone did they could probably find sufficient protection.
If you plan on straddling the big flake to get to the 2nd bolt keep in mind you'll hit the ledge a few feet off the ground if you fall. It doesn't look fun.
I'm 225 lbs and routinely twist holds set in gyms.....I didn't feel any of the holds "pulling" or popping. Don't climb when it's wet and the route is fine.
Best route in the "Trash Compactor" protects just fine, slight run out between the bolt and the first piece of gear you can get.
Deserves more than one star...great face climbing...cool moves seperated by good rests.
Scarry!!! Some bad rock at the top in the alcove...I busted off a hold yesterday, and then run out at the top on lichen covered rock! YIKES!
This definitely is the best route West of the Mississippi. Only two stars? This George classic deserves 3 stars if you ask me!
This routes is also as hard as it looks. I would also bring a #5 camalot for the top.
more like 11b to me, and only 1 star, hvae definatly been on better routes
I've been climbing in the gorge for three years now. Up until recently, I've only cleaned the climbs (5.6-5.8). Recently, I climbed this as my first lead. It rocked! Perhaps now I'll have the nerve to lead other climbs? Maybe. It was a fun climb and I would certainly recommend it, especially as a wake-up climb in the morning. Peace out.
-Gondrewzo
Very fun route. Nice intro to hand-fist stacking.
This route is pretty good. Technical crux at mid height, with cool moves that flow well down low & the rock is pretty solid....BTW Soundgarden rules:)
who said this thing was 13c??????
Pretty fun route. Worth the walk over to do it for sure.
Aug 2, 2003: Wasps in one of the pockets about 10ft off the ground, a couple feet to the right of a plumbline from the anchors.
Sorry, that should have been "a couple of feet to the left"
Too bad you have such a bad attitude:( I'll be psyched for you when you do Welcome to Old Kentuck!, and can't wait to hear from you how it goes when you do it. Good luck with it.
Man, this is one of my most favorite routes ever at the red. Its just a little short. Definetly deserves some stars.
Needless to say, give the rap station a good look before you use it. The previous webbing I found was chewed though or cut.
This route is so fun!! Thanks for leading it, Loren!
Yay!
Up Yonder only (for now?...)
Crazy crux section at the 6th bolt, but a fun route. Thanks for ruining everyone else's onsite with that comment, J.H. Punk.
killer line, with a commiting move to the horizontal....one of the best in The Red!
Hey, the name changed...? Was Spoonman?
Pretty cool route, maybe a bit tough for 5.9? Watch out for wasps near the top.
Cool route, maybe easy 5.11? Gear isn't super great, so make sure to have your game face on.
Stays dry in heavy rain
this is the best 5.10 trad route in the gorge! it's called the "bald pussy route of death".
10d - 11a?
If this route gets 2 stars, then Shaggy should get 7.
Aug 11, 2003 - 5 copperheads in the crack of the climb.
This Picture is for the Wrong Route, the pictuer is of the route to the left
Short but fun route - great view atop.
Couple of variation exist on this route as well.
Yeah, it was not the easiest 5.6 I have come across but a very nice route.
Climbed on lead with one foot wrapped up.
Fun route. Climbed with one foot wrapped up (injuries, injuries...)
Another great route for the red. The second pitch is a questionable 5.6 but nice exposure - and a great view.
I would give this route a 3-star rating - tons of fun
Use a 60 meter rope. 45 meters was a little on the short side.
free soloed
You DON'T want to wrap from that tree!!!
Nice balancing act on this route. I would give it two stars - even though the anchors are sketchy.
This is where I grabbed a handful of sand at the anchors. Humm, that made my day - such a stupid mistake. Reach for the right side atop anchors is far better in my opinion.
What is the bolted route to the right of the dihedral? It has a high first bolt.
The route is no longer poorly protected.
changed rating to 10c
this route is like 12c MAYBE!!!!!!!!!
3 stars in my book
Be careful on this thing Air Canada and I collectively broke off three holds around the second bolt this past weekend. This thing is pretty dirty too...it may take a while for this climb to evolve into a decent route.
Maybe not 11a? More like 10c/d.
Wes
A watched Hamsco hang all over this route!
There are 10 bolts now.
That wasn't the easiest 10a I ever done. Almost lost my nerves on that last move.
the name is Amelia's Birhtday Route. FA Hugh Loeffler May/03
I would say more like 5.10b/c, but I wouldn't go so far as 5.10d/5.11a. Fun route either way, though!
Actually there are no specific rap anchors. The traverse left lands you on an almost inescapable choss covered alcove. The best option is to traverse right instead and find a bolt for No Place Like Home and rap off that.
Josh, is this the route you took your huge whipper on?
I have updated the route name and rating as per the FA, Hugh Loeffler's request.
my lower back and ass are black and blue and hurting today, but this route was FUN!
Damn, I did not even remember putting up this route! Hey Uncle BG did you ever do anything with all the routes in Soquatchee, TN?
This is much more difficult than 5.2!
The crack has been wet a few times I've climbed it--it's not always dry.
This is a fabulous route for new climbers.
what is that supposed to mean??????
Ya this is the one! Like I said, watch that you get the sequence right at the anchors!
F.A. Barry Richardson, he called it "Life's a Beech"
Solo, with a crash pad. Yes, I am a bas ass...
My first outdoor lead!
Damn this route is STEEP!
Second worst climb I've done at the Red! Hooky Pals is worse!
Waste of eight bolts and one star.
10a is right on...best route on the wall, IMO.
Rating is approximate. Possibly 12d.
The run out to the anchors is about fifteen feet and the fall is clean. The difficulty is 5.10 (on this last section). Not too bad. It puts the sport back into sport climbing.
This route currently has a big tree hanging from the top of the cliff over the last two bolts.
Good moves, and it has cleaned up some as the rock seemed pretty solid.
This route is totally contrived, no less than 3 holds that are so glued that you feel like your back in the gym.
rating about 12a
great route. more like 11+
Yea, I knew it was Spoonman's route so I called it Spoonman. I finally got the correct name of the route.
I climbed this route for the first time on 8/23/03. What a great climb!
It has a solid 5.9 move
Great route,still pristine with sharp edges
The pinnacle is harder than 5.5,the bottom easier
It's a sport route on a trad only wall,a fun diversion.
I agree. *** for sure.
I top roped it first. More of a head point.
The start is the only thing that keeps this route from being a classic,the moves are stellar and the exposure is good.
Real soft rock at the bottom.
Climbs better than it looks.
The copperheads have been there for years. Please respect their territory and leave them be!
A very cool link up os to do the initial crack of VIsion and then step left and pull the overhang on KY Pinstripe. I did it very shortly after the FAs and have called it Guide's Route.
worth doing once
This ain't no sport route. Shouldn't have an "(S)" on it.
I thought the route was right on at 5.8 and I'm only 5'9". I actually took a complete newbie to it and he flashed it on TR.
5.7 for sure. It's just steep. Get over it.
Benny is right. Did this one the other day and it now has 10 bolts.
This route is the best 5.9 face route in the RRG.
It was originally underrated and then holds broke.
I aways thought this route was junk. But everyone seems compelled to do it.
This route is very, very cool. The climbing is varied and makes you think on your feet.
Cool sporty crux.
this route is way better the second time around,especially since its had some traffic
what do you think i means?
i was just wondering who graded this route? As to my knowledge only two people have done this route clean. and i was wondering if you guys just guessed on the rating or got the information from them.
i think every route on this wall is 12a except fuzzy
only a girl would call this thing 12c
12a in my book
if anyone likes this route they are a clown and need to be killed
the route was good but my tall body had a hard time hiking my feet up for the short compact moves of the crux * in my book
any wangmaster who would rip on katie brown because she is sooo much better than them needs to be kicked in the johnson
only players get on this rote
i like the sandy crimps at the crux they beg for a **** route
i saw some blonde headed foolio get on this route and failed miserably and he got really pissed and said the route was the worst route he has ever got on
i think that was a comment made out of frustration birthed by an over competitive spirit.
i saw this guy soloing this route naked and the weird thing was he was trying to feed his "rope" through the chains
true that
who is the player and or genius who bolted this route blows wang
wait this route hasnt been done and yet it has a rating and three stars how does that work? just wondering
the bottom is the best in the summer **** in my book
why dosent someone just grow some balls and crimp down?
congradulations
Freakin' awesome splitter.
best name ever for a route!
Best problem of it's grade in the RRG. Great moves to a cool topout.
Rap from bolts on ledge -200ft rope barely makes it to the ground after rope stretch. Be careful.
The start is harder than 5.4 I gave it a 6 at least. The top will chew up a rope.
V3 is right on if you have it wired.
I thought the route was right on at 5.8 and I'm only 5'9".
I attempted to rope solo aid this thing but it seems pretty R or even X rated. Not aidable in the beginning anyway. I did a direct first pitch variation.
Or you can place a small cam in the back of the chimney...
Great intro short intro to OW/chimneying
Comparable to Casual Viewing but the rock is a little softer. Very fun and very aesthetic position.
If Green Eggs and Ham only get one star each why does this get two?
This "sport route" has no anchors. Be aware. Also is usually home to wasps at the top in the summer.
THis route is not terribly "R" rated. The start is the most risky climbing on the route.
I really enjoy this route. It climbs really well...and flares to the inside.
Its like a girl with a big ass and no tits........all the business is at the bottom!!!
I accidentally selected this route for my spray list.
Short but sweet.
Short but sweet.
This route is short but it's worth doing.
To locate this route, hike pretty far right from Superslab. If you feel like you passed the route, just keep hiking.
It's worth the hike.
Wandering, contrived line.
10a, no harder, and best route on wall!
This thing is a pile. If you insist on climbing it, I would strongly recomend putting your belayer in a helmet. I was pulling off brick sized rocks the entire way up.
What no picture?
If you did it for yourself then why are you spraying so loudly about it.
The picture is of the splitter crack but the route description makes it sound like its the dihedral to the right of that. Which is it?
Protects well with hexes. Also bring some small cams for the finish.
This was my first trad lead ever.
This was my first route on a rope.
I really liked this route.
You too? The best part of soloing with a pad is dropping it from the top of the climb on the way out.
We did it in 1992, and then top roped the face to the left. Joe finney gets the first ascent.
Cool climb if you like grabing handfulls of sand, climbs worse than it looks.
If you don't stem of the rock behind you at the top this sucker is really pretty hard for 10a. All in all not a bad little route, minus all the poison ivy at the base of the cliff!
The lurkist said- squeeze job. i guess there is some value in having aonther option for climbing at a staging area where a bunch of people ae already hanging out. That said, I think this is clearly an example of where the route doesn't pass the test of "If there were no other routes around and I walked up on it, would I equip it?"
There is just too much other rock in the Big Sinking that would yield four star classic lines to warrant over bolting a 35 foot squeeze job.
Sorry to slag. Nothing personal intended.
I would agree with that rating.
I would agree with the 5.10c rating.
This thing is a bit harder than I had originally thought. 13a??
Last move is super fun!!
I think it can be safely fallen on and well protected with micro-cams. I'm gonna find out next week for sure. If you don't see me post that I freed it then you know what happened.
Cool route with nice moves.
How do you know who did the FA?
It is much better than the one to the left.
Bubb, you just wish that you could climb a chimney like ynot.
A 50m rope is insufficient to get down from the anchors in one rappel or lower! Take a 60m.
Third hanger missing making it an R route. Hitch a wire over it for pro.
It was more fun than the rating suggested.
When I lead it, I thought that it would probably be harder than 5.6, too, but the kids I took up there (none of which climbed higher than 5.7) had no trouble with it.
This route has been chopped.
One move wonder...cool move, but a one move wonder none the less. You do it on TR as you would stick clip the first bolt, due to the rock at the climbs base, which also takes away from the climb. Kinda weird that way the climb ends in the middle of the cliff too, and I am not sure 11d is accurate, probably easier like Allah suggests.
Finally the temp. is cool enough to do this thing...get on it!
This route sucks goat wangs!
Better plan on building an anchor for your second. Old moldy sling on a dead tree at the top.
Good rappell tree off towards the right though.
Pretty sure its the splitter. The rock quality is bad.
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Unfortunately, the tree that used to serve as the rap station for this climb has been cut down. You can walk over to the top of Frenchburg and rap with two ropes as an alternative to using the stump.
The bolted route to the right of this crack is called Scrambled Porn 11d * FA: Terry Kindred Crimpy. 60 ft. 6 bolts.
VERY cool route.
Great hand jamming! Wicked cool finish...gotta love that deadpoint to the dead pine.
The rope drag was horendous. Split it into 2 pitches.
This whole wall is great!
What a typical RRG scandal
sweet beginning, jug your way to the top....fun route!
I have pics of this route if anyone wants others. long route
I highly agree Wes....its long but really not technical at all
Just a touch harder than 12c in my opinion, considering it kicked my ass, I think it is almost as hard as the thing to the left of it.
Just sent this thing the other day, bad ass route, but it sucks that you have to jump the fence, i got my rope bag caught on it, and the thing ripped, fuckin fence im gonna take it out as soon as i find the time
I think this route is just a little longer than 100 ft, its the longest thing in the Cave, i would say about 130 ft or so
how could someone give this route 5 stars????? its chipped!!!!!!!!!!!!! therefore the route dosent deserve 5 stars
I took a nice 10 footer off the finish today. Had my hand in the summit dirt, clawing for the bush and peeled. Pulled a #3 and a #4 TCU out on the way down. Beware chossy, mossy rock at the finish. Otherwise the gear and the climbing are stellar. The first crux protects very well.
This is kind of an underated route. It is really is pretty cool.
This might be one of the best sandbags in the red. 10b? Not!
sorry bill, this route is 5:13c
5:12d/5:13b
92
Just beacuse you can climb this 5.10d, doesn't mean you won't take a 40 footer on Fire and Brimstone! YIKES!!!
longer than 60 ft.More like 75 or 80
Either no one has climbed it in a long time, or there is some really fast growing lichen/powder up there.....interesting, but not worth planning a day over.
Good climb...get on it when you have a chance and it's dry. Way better than Ale-8, Chainsaw or SKWIBA.
This thing is crazy....I think this is the most exciting arete climb I have ever been on...even on TR! I will definitley go back and give it the old red point go when it gets a little cooler.
This thing is crazy....I think this is the most exciting arete climb I have ever been on...even on TR! I will definitley go back and give it the old red point go when it gets a little cooler.
This climb currently haas a tree hanging down from the top of the cliff covering the anchors and top two bolts on this climb.
did somebody say undercling??? that and sidepulls....proper foot technique will make the finishing move a piece of cake..... (as I learned after taking a wipper off the top!)
Yea, I agree. It felt easier than 10c, i would say 10a most likely.
I don't think its any less slimey today.
horrible route
dont even bother placing pro, or the rope drag will be too much. rock is bad quality. it would be cool to rap all the way to the ground instead of the ledge.
sweet route
i had a great time on it, its about twice as high as it looks, after the crux, its an easy couple of feet to the top. I would reccomend you rappel off, if you make the descision to top rope, make SURE the rope isn't rubbing on any sharp edges
This route is worth doing. It needs its own anchors.
One hard move at the first bolt..followed by pure endurance climbing...looks cooler than it climbs. Fun none the less.
Historically speaking, going to the alcove on the left and then having to climb back out of it and over to the right is kind of cool. Good test of problem solving skills.
Just be sure you're comfortable with a good heel hook.
I solved that problem by not doing it in the first place. Good test of judgement skills in my opinion.
Hell yeah Sandy!
Or a lack of a spirit for adventure.
I thought this route was kind of a choss pile.
I thought it was a bit stiff too for the grade.
Awesome route. Sling a horn on the runout section and it's not runout.
12c. one of the best routes
Killer climb! Plenty of big holds mixed in with the crimps. Anyone who thinks the Red is left right left jug hauling should get on this one!
You can rap down from the tree-slings at the top of the second pitch using a single 60m rope.
funkalicious.
This is a great route. But if Headstone surfer is being called 10a than this should be rated the same.
I know Jeff has led this. I've got pictures of him on it.
Also, just left of the blunt prow about halfway through the traverse is a route called 'Accidentally Kelly Street' which goes at 5.9+ R (very serious) FA: Dave Chenault, Chris Chaney, Jason Burton, Immediately right of the same blunt prow is the route 'Nautical Twilight' which goes at 5.8X (low crux is well protected).
I know I did this sucker too...but I can't remeber if I went up as part of the FA party or if I did it on a second ascent?
I can't climb 11's, yet I onsighted it... The bottom feels no harder than a 10d, and the top no harder than a 10a.
Fun long route. Very fun!
Fun route, a little short, but worth doing at least couple of times.
This is my favorite 10 route at the red - right after AWOL.
When the climber becomes 2/3 of the way up, grab a camera: You will get great photo ops.
Short route, but totally worth doing at least twice. Nice work Jake.
That route may me think (for the start) and I loved it for it. Thanks Terry!
Stay calm on the run out, or place a piece. A lovely route to use your head (and feet)
Worth doing... and again.
There are slings for an anchor after the second OW, inside the heuco.
I am pretty sure that image is not Suction Lipectomy. Its a beautiful perfect Ow with no bottom a few feet right of the second pitch of Ralph and Bobs
The real name is "Dreanm of a bee", tha french man bolting it almost got stung by a bee on it.
*Sorry "DREAM of a bee"*
The name of this one is mark's daughter's names in french, or something like that, I really don't know it
This is a decent little beginner climb. The gear is good, the rock has cleaned up and the moves aren't half bad. Its mostly a face climb next to a crack. If it were longer and/or prettier it would be a much more popular climb I'm sure.
The direct start is very cool. Use a .75 Camalot in the horizontal.
Be sure not to try and exit the wall by following the trail left of Synergy. We tried this and ended up having to get a 15 minute ride back to our cars from a friendly local family.
If you just want to get to all the routes except Wishbone, just follow the path that criss-crosses the creek. A wall will be up the hill on your right until it curves around to be in th
This is a finger crack.
I bailed on this route a long time ago. Look for my stopper.
This is one of the best. Hard for the grade.
Armadillo - to provide weapons to a Spanish pickle
Most people think this route may be a bit harder than it's current rating.
Best first trad lead in the Red River Gorge.
This route is more of a boulder problem than a route. It's like 20 feet high or something with a nice cushy landing.
Tough fingerlocking in the beginning to an awkward move with a slopey foot. Be sure not to let your right foot slip off and you've got this one in the bag.
If you do this, make sure you skip the first set of anchors 'cuz it gets pretty cool after that. Only like 20 more feet but a bit pumpy.
Move people fall at the very last move on this thing.
Most people run out the last 15 feet or so to the anchors because it's awkward laybacking but if you want to stop, a #1 Camalot goes great.
Haven't done this but I saw it a long time ago. It's extremely short....more like a boulder problem and kind of dirty looking.
When I first did this route I thought it was 5.11c because I armbarred the whole thing. I then found out that it's much easier if you stem it and stay out of the crack for the most part. Bring lots of large Camalots.
This thing is a little dirty at the bottom with an awkward wide section but soon lets up into fine stemming with thin hands. There's a really strange/scary section about five feet from the top so don't lose it.
Towards the top you'll notice that it gets to a strange flared section. It's possible to traverse out right onto the face here and climb jugs to the top. It doesn't look like you'll be able to traverse because you really can't see around the corner but just trust that the holds get better.
I just climbed up through the flared section. It's kinda like chimneying with hands waaaaaay back in the flare.
Take a couple of #3.5 Camalots for the fists section on this route. #3 Camalots will work but they're as tipped out as tipped out can get. If your fists don't feel big enough, reach waaaay back into the crack and use your forearms along with your fists.
Sorry about the FA mixup. I think it is corrected now (using the information from John's guide).
Sorry Martin, FFA: Larry Day 1976,
FFA: Larry Day, Bill Eidson, early 70s.
First Ascent: Day & Piersall, FFA: Souders & Hays
Take small TCUs for this thing. Very thin and kinda painful.
This thing is kinda short but pretty cool. Good introduction to wide hands/fisty stuff.
This route is similar to the first pitch of Rocket Man. The start is a pretty hard boulder problem. Use a hand/fist stack with a knee to get past it.
This route completely rocks. The second pitch is short but is the crux. Bring a couple of large pieces for the second pitch. Great view from the top.
One can make liberal use of the tree and this route will be a bit easier. The crux though is pulling through the last short slot from the ledge. Will be cooler when/if the tree is gone.
The bottom section is kind of pebbly so you may want to use tape.
The runout on this route is towards the top and is on easy face. It's well worth it because the rest of the route is pretty cool.
The runout on this route is after the crack ends to the anchors. The face holds are huge and if you want, you can even get a small stopper in the seam to your right and not have a runout at all.
This toprope is worth doing if you climbed Close To The Edge. Just traverse over and run the rope through the anchors. Pretty powerful climbing.
Beware of stepping on or grabbing the loose block in the crack about three feet from the ledge.
Although short, this route is pretty cool. Bring some wide gear for the first fifteen feet and also for the belay.
This is more of a face climb than a crack climb. Slopey holds and hard placements if I remember right.
This climb is a dirtpile, why does it get a star?
This climb is a dirtpile, too.
You can get a couple of no-hands rests on the ledges.
Doesn't stay dry.
Stays dry in a downpour. The rock is crumbly.
Many people have not had success in finding this route. Good luck trying.
You have to climb a bit of a boulder problem before you can place gear on this thing.
From the ground this looks like it would be pretty easy but it's pretty bouldery. Very short but pretty cool.
This route is a must do.
This route is goofy
I like to lob in a hex on this route, I'm not very good at placing hexes.
No wide crack here.
I know the guy who put this up...go do it now!
this is a very sandbagged route,feels more like 10b does anybody agree
Lead Mr. Bunghole trad acouple of years ago.
Lead trad a couple of years ago.
I can't remember if I did the second pitch or not.
Lead trad a couple of years ago.
Great line, next best thing to Indian Creek, UT. Bring a bigger piece for the top.
Cool topout, might not be 10b, more like 9+/10a. You can also walk off the backside.
Wes
"R" rated, kinda tricky, scary start, but it gets easier.
Wes
Much better then it looks. Great jamming once past the mossy start. Bring a couple big cams for the belay.
Classic old school route. Beware of the 5.8+ grade!!
Bolt moved to make it less scary.
Top is very cool, and not much (if any) harder then the bottom.
Fun route, might be a bit easy for the grade.
Not 5.9, maybe more like 5.7
This route is great and it stays dry in a downpour. Trust me, I was climbing it in one.
Jan 1997 - Cleaned first pitch, led second pitch. Second pitch had fixed anchors.
I think I've only done the first two pitches.
did this route on tope rope after bolting eye of the needle i was going to bolt it but never got around to it
My first 10a trad lead.
i did the first redpoint not knowing neil had not done it yet.
My favorite route at Long Wall.
its a little sporty from the last bolt to the anchors, and there is a hard move up there
great route one of my favorites!!
soled this route the first time i climbed it.
i onsight soloed this route in 1987
Haven't done it since the hold broke.
Sounds like something I've done up there, but I'm not sure.
If this route is 12b nicoderm is 12d
Best route on the wall
not a very good route. sharp pockets and only 1 anchor.
seconded steve faulkner, what a cool route!
one damn hard 5.9
the upper half is cool ,but first two pitches are not good. but nice top out.
Great route if you havent done go do it!
Ooops. That was a typo. Changed to 5.12a.
Cool Larry! Always wondered about that.
A hard start for sure. I think the start is harder than 10a, but after the first few moves the route feels like a 9 if not easier.
Favorite sport climb at Purple Valley.
Ha, who gave it that name!?
Agreed Wes, one move down low that can be somewhat off balance or maybe even height dependent, then 7'ish climbing.
Scratch that "freely ascended" part, Ray. I led the first (clean) and second pitches (not clean). While doing P2, part of the roof crack which I was using as hold ended-up in my hands as I found myself dangling from a blue TCU.
More like 9+ then 10b.
Only "R" rated if you don't have a #5 camalot or #6 friend.
Bottom can stay wet for a while. Top is crux, but you can get pretty good rests most of the way,
Wes
You can go to the top with one rope in a single pitch. Two ropes or one 70 will get you down. Great night time route if you are camping and roadside.
More like 5.8 or 5.9-
Great roof crack, upper part is pretty pumpy. Beware of loose rock. Esp. if there are people climbing clypso II.
Wes
You can link whiteout direct and whiteout into one 120 foot mixed route @ 5.8. Two ropes will get you down in one rap.
Don't let the R rating scare you away, you can get really good gear the whole way. Just bring some TCU's and two sets of stoppers.
damnit!
Bend Over, Here It Comes Again
I did because nobody knew the name and the guy who put it up also built the via ferrata.
This route sucks!
I pop wood whenever i think about this route!
I get boners every time i imagine climbing such a wonderful route.
I'm pitching a tent right now!
This is the most horrifying route in the galaxy.
This route sucks, but it gives me boners!
FA: Gehrig Austing, Spring 1997
I mean "Austin"
Spring 1997
My first lead, 1978.
forget the second pitch
fun as hell,lets go do it.
I feel bad for whoever breaks off that hold. You know, the big one that you can see flex when you grab it.
One of the best summits in Kentucky.
Mmmmmm! Mid-way sit down rest! I like it! The start bulge could be tough for some, and the chunk after the ledge could be tough, but really and easy, fun 10b tick!
Great long moderate route. Definitely an epic for timid 5.8 leaders.
This is a good summit route for crowded days. Link it up with Oozing Couth. It can be quite enjoyable.
Stellar route! Definitely worth the walk.
I agree with Mr. Ellington, but would like to add that the aforementioned runout could be quite dangerous for the second climber.
This is not a good top rope route. Anchors would be nice.
Good solo. Bad downclimb.
I think we always knew that this would get downgraded once it was clean. The fingercrack above the roof used to be full of dirt. After climbing it a few times I cleaner it out. What is the new consensus grade? 5.11+?
-Tony Bubb
I may have cheated a bit to the left, as it felt a bit too easy....
PS- The FA was with John as listed, but that was not the FFA- I was in an air-cast on my left foot and aided it that time. It was freed later with a partner from a gang of folks who were there, Jerry Bargo, Willie Hunt, Mike Heffner, Mindy Huddleston, Darren Livingston,and a frind of Bob Shire's named Kyle (Kyle Harris maybe?). -TB
With rope stretch you can make it with one 60m.
i saw some retard ascend this crack. he was skinny and naked with nothing but a blunt. i didn't catch his name, but he whispered, "I am not the magma, I am not the pleth!" as he crawled down the trail.
I liked the alternate start that Hackworth and I did sometime in the mid 80s.
Wasn't this rated 5.4?
This is the kind of route I was always looking for in the gorge, but rarely found. Back in the 70s we walked past dozens of unclimbed lines that are now famous, driven by visions of routes like this. Relatively long for the gorge, and a little stiff for the grade, this climb is one of the best.
Fun climbing down low, but the fierce finish and spectacular top out is what this RRG classic is all about.
Well, not the hardest, nor the prettiest, nor the most anythingest route.
Okay all you crazies, don't be bashful, if you've done it spray! 'Cause it was so much fun I done it twice.
Pitch one, aka The Corner is 110 ft. Pitch two is just 45 scary ft.
What I meant to say was, Gee Johnny!, you're doing some mighty obscure routes. Is there anything you won't climb? Then I remembered Tower of Power, oh, well.
Ed and I freed it all but for one slimy move in the algae coated final slot. Guess we could have gone back, but we both had bigger fish to fry.
I hope I'm not on the route when it becomes "Blue Popping Off Plate Special" 5.8!
Good find you made there Tony!
5.11+ sounds good to me.
This is a cool route. It really ought to see an ascent every once in a while.
The sit down rest has a nice view, and good breeze on a hot day.
11c ** 80 ft. FA: me 2/2003
try 11a/maybe b
12c
12c
12b
13a concensus with the new finish
12c
As a historical note, Jeff did the FA with an eight foot sling hanging down from the anchor below the last long move, which is a factor in the finality of the ascent. I don't know who actually did the true FA. Possibly Brian Toy.
As an historical note, this route was done on trad gear only originally. The Bolts were placed after significant peer pressure was brought to bear on the FA.
This is a pretty spooky route, with terrific position. Feels real good to get to the top.
ain't no 5.2
What a great route- one of the best 5-8s in the Red
Not worth much once was plenty
not bad mixed route- Someday i will replace the pitons w/ bolts(w/ FA permission)
Hard to find anchors to belay the second
Tricky pro at the start/ Crap anchors at the top/ needs Fixe rings
IN FEBRUARY 1999 TWO OTHERS AND I FREED THIS AND THEN SET UP ATYROLEAN TRAVERSE TO THE TOP OF THE TURRET. PROBABLE FIRST TRAVERSE ASCENT.AS PROOF NOTE THE BROKEN LIMB ON THE LARGE PINE. RQ
This route is great!! Love it Terry
I Mark de Saint-Rat climbed this in the company of Steve Must and Tom Hayes
in 1986-7-8 using a #3 friend bought from Larry Sickman and a big sidways bong after the crux.
10a
There is another route to the left, about five feet, or so.
FA: Saturday May 4th, 2002. 2A Saturday May 4th, 2002?
FA: Saturday May 18th, 2002, also 2nd, and 3rd. Thanks for the hangers T-bone, and bolts Gregg. Chain and caribiner anchors.
i think this route should be bolted. the sport climbers would really appreciate this one.
this route is like old popcorn. in many ways it's good, but you could definitely go for something better.
Very cool route... Gripping finish moves. I'd say this is as much of a must do route as Sunshine and Moonbeam.
fadfasd
Yes Agree also, climb is definately a 5.7 or 5.8ish!
Definately needs to be downrated, maybe to a 5.8 or even 5.7, but a good little first pitch up to whiteout
You know why this route is called "Sam Krieg Will Bolt Anything" ? Because Sam Krieg bolted it and got the FA. He has several alternate identities, however, Jeff Moll is not one of them. It's a good route only no one get's on it.
Took me three tries and a conversation with Jonny to find this one. Short but sweet route.
Two #1.5 Tricams protect the "R" section quite nicely, but you still have to do the scary step down to get the the start of the route.
Too short to warrant any stars.
Really just a variation start to The Refrigerator.
I was also part of the FA party.
I was also part of the FA party.
FA
5.7 my ass.
Wes is not leading you astray; it protects fine.
This route truely sucks.
SWEET! Don't skip the second pitch! You can probably fire it in one long pitch if you have the right rack and mind your rope drag.
Climbed the first pitch but as I started belaying my follower, the rope sucked back into a finger crack through a bulge. The rope drag was so bad I couldn't belay! A tightly seated nut in the right place might have prevented this spoiler.
Putting anchors on this route would detract from the "Lunatic Fringe" experience!
Yes, that is a huge run-out in the middle between bolts. Yes, you would make a spectacular groundfall. But it is easy, secure, low-angle climbing through that section. Quit doubting yourself and do it!
Rather, FFA, Jerry Bargo, April 1994
Pretty cool route. I didn't have any problems sinking Aliens in the beginning.
I saw nothing which would warrant an R rating for this route.
The approach is more arduous than the climb,but the view is worth it.Pinnacles are just cool.
Actually this route has a second pitch to it.
It's only 5.7 if you think Muscle Shoals is 5.8....
my first 5.11
I think the grade is right on.
the dihedral to the right of eureaka is 'Howard Roark' FA Alexis Scott. 5.9+/10a
Check out the cool 5.9 dihedral on the other side of the arete.
From what I remember, the gear was kind of dicey on this thing.
i think this route is overrated
I cleaned this route up a bit when I did it so hopefully it will stay clean for awhile. If not, take the time to clean it up. It's well worth doing. Kind of like Crack Attack but about 2-3" wider.
This route is long and sustained. Very cool climbing. A little dirty for the last five feet but the climbing is easy there.
Did I mention that this route is long and sustained? My gosh, this thing rocks. The picture doesn't do it justice.
Taken from someone's post (CBP). Hope you don't mind!
========================================
Oh Man! Trad Multi-pitch: Fear And Loathing In Nada.
Funky cracks to a nice sit-down ledge belay(5.9, 75'), where you hang out and watch the poor bastard who gets the second pitch fist-jam his way out the overhanging, slanting crack that widens to a cool-ass thrutch to the top!
Second only to The Quest.
=====================================
best in the red
Aptly named
good but short,nice topout
this climb looks sick
who says the red doesn't have slabs?
This is my favorite route in the Red!!!
this is my favriot climb in the red
This modern downrating is getting out of hand!
There are actually three bolts on the route. The first is apparently the original bolt. The two upper bolts were on it when I first did it about 5 or 6 years ago.
Bruce Adams and Dave Scott put this route up.
Bruce Adams and Dave Scott put this route up.
I found no bolt.
er, scratch that. I forgot that I fell.
Steller route.
One of my favorite climbs of it's grade - great for introducing new ppl to the world of trad!!!
Dave (traddave7@yahoo.com)
Ditto on the run-out
The second pitch of this route is very cool. Good steep climbing and no choss contrary to popular belief.
The first bolt is no longer there. Stick clip the second bolt to start.
This route is actually about 50 feet past the dirt ramp.
Way overrated. The only 10b move is the bulge; but most people cheat left. More of a 5.9 than a 5.10b.
One of the most esthetic lines at The Red, and a killer ride!
Can you say, "Pile" all together boys and girls...."Pile"!
Rad upper sidepull pocket crux sequence, best line on the wall, in my opinion of course.
Definitely the hardest one of the 3 lines on this wall.
I actually inserted my entire body into the wide horizontal break in the cliff up high on the route and laid completely down on my back.
A hidden gem...great 12a if you are looking for a shorter one.
Cool if you like green rock!
About time somebody put 12b on this thing... hardest one on the wall!?!
Multiple knee-bars take the sting out of this one. Very fun.
I agree. This is a stellar multi-pitch outing.
I did this a couple years ago before the area was closed. Please don't climb these routes, they are not worth loosing the entire George over. Thanks.
Cool different type of route for The Red.
This one will get and keep your attention all the way to the anchors.
I did this back in 1993 or 4... it was a good time.
More like 5.10c.
(I didn't place the gear so call it a pinkpoint or whatever you want)
It's a 5.9+ in my opinion, unless you are 7' tall.
I'd give it 3 stars. What a fine route!
Is the death defying exit move really only a 5.8?
Having done all of the routes from Kampsight to C-sharp - this is the most challenging of them all. The first section has lost most of it's holds, making the moves pretty delicate. And the crux section in the middle is a bit beyond 5.9 in my opinion. Overall, I like the route - but think the grade might fool some people.
Ray is correct, the second pitch of this route is way steep and way cool... fun climbing.
Aretes don't get much prettier than this.
Yikes! Those flexy holds going for the anchor are scary!
No anchors, only very small tree (backed up with long slings). I personally think that the top part is PG-13/R.
Gear is good after ~30 ft mark.
only did first pitch
I led all the routes on this wall for the first time this week and think there are three 9+ sections on this climb: to the first bolt, a thin facey section in the middle and the bulge right below the anchor. Were it not for big ledges between the tough moves, this would be a 5.10a for sure.
An offwith,Has some cool 5.6 moves,it's just really green and vegetated
LOL Johnny... 3rd class, eh, Ray? Man...
I agree that this is probably harder than a 5.9, especially the sketchy beginning and pulling the buldge at the end. Although, I bet it might be a 9 if you use the crack way to the right at the top to help pull the bulge.
Amen, tomdarch! Every hold sketched me out!
Yeah I'd like to thank Terry for the "scissors" beta. What a fun and different route!
3rd class, 5.14, what's the difference?
This route is naned Oil's Well That Ends Well
its not C it is B
Easier than 8-Ball in my opinion
Dosen't deserve 3 stars
Worst route on the wall
Best 12c anywhere
A single 60m rope will get you down from the bolts at the top.
Holy Shit, how did my pic get on here??????? Thats cool and all cause i know i look good, allthe ladys want me!!!!!!!!!!!
This route rocks. Unlike any other route in the Red.
This route sucks
Flashed! Scarry 3rd to 4th bolt.
OK climbing...BBBB to its right is much better and really not that much easier than this one.
Three stars? Please...try one! Buff & Stain are three star routes..this most certainly is NOT!
Post a pic!
I agree, this climb is wonderful, except the end. I had to clip the anchors from a lop-sided softball looking hold a foot to the right of the anchors.
Yeah, there is a lot of dust at the start and at the ledge on the top, but I thought it was a lot of fun. Good climbing and good pro. It is worth doing.
Yeah, there is a lot of dust at the start and at the ledge on the top, but I thought it was a lot of fun. Good climbing and good pro. It is worth doing.
Well, I'd be careful now rapping from the rhodo. I just noticed it is now infested by termites so it's a time bomb.
Unless you have a #6 Friend you'll have to run the first fifteen feet out.
Very different style for a lot of people. It was fun figuring out how to use my ass properly. Most of the people I talked to said they hated it. I loved it myself.
I added a direct finish to route in 92 that goes over the roof above the ledge. .10a R (there is no pro up there)
this is one of the best routes in the red
I added a direct start to this in spring of 01 by climbing up through the dirty moldy chossy black rock where the crack terminates .10b
yeah, I did. What about it motha fucka?
Where did you get the name? Its name is just Green Horn. FA Hugh Loeffler
I fired it with my dick shoved up power2u's blown out ass clit.
These are both fun little routes with a short approach. Worth the stop on your way to Sky Bridge of Funk Rock.
Really fun climb. Moderate climbing for 4 bolts to a good rest then great face climbing that requires a lot of attention, on-sight.
I got on this for the first time this past weekend, f'n awesome! I'll be back for more.
I did the original line on Saturday the May 3rd... it goes at 13a...MY FIRST 13... YEEEHAW! 10 tries, and it felt great when I did the boulder problem up high!
That ain't shit compared to 5.15 buddy. You have a long way to go.
this thing is no 5.2
My first Trad Lead Ever!!! (Something to be proud of???)
FA Barry Broley
FA Chris Martin
FA Rob McFall
FA Neal Strickland
FA Rob McFall
FA Jason McClennan
FA Neal Strickland
FA Rob McFall
FA Rob McFall
Cool climb... I don't know why nobody gets on it. It really isn't all that bad I did it on my second try. Almost onsighted it, fell at the last bolt. The one move at the 3rd bolt is reachy but hey what are you gonna do...just climb it!
Wasn't this thing called Little Dinosaurs originally?
Great route! More endurance than bouldery...more like 12bish too, climb, enjoy, repeat.
Almost got the onsight and fell outta the "kiss your ass goodbye" stradle after you come outta the roof and onto the arete. Sent it next go! Definately one of the best routes ive done for the grade at the red!! GET ON IT!!!
I was there the day it got bolted and we all marathon climbed it to get alot of rock that was chipping off. I thought the route was okay. Sounds like it is in good shape now. Havent been to military in years
Worst climb i've done in the Red
Don't be afraid, just tape your fingers, wrist, elbows and hope tendons don't blow like guitar strings!
I followed the first pitch clean and led the second. Need to go back and lead first pitch.
Awesome, deserves ***!
Great route, one of my best onsights, just goes on forever.
ditto
most people start with second bolt clipped
That flexy jug at the top is kinda sketchy! When it blows and it will, it is just a matter of time, this climb is going to be much harder... so you better get on it soon. One of the best 5.10's around.
You better have some crack climbing skills for this one. I clipped the anchor off a fist jam and used several bomber finger locks on the way up. Exciting Route!
12b is accurate. Hard move at the 3rd bolt and then a bouldery little section around bolts 5 and 6... then mostly jugs to to the anchors. Pretty fun really.
Great crimping to a cool sitdown above the last bolt and above the trees. Then air it out to the anchors.
Another good one...don't forget the crux runout to the anchors that make this one worth while.
Bolts are all chopped but there is one at the top to TR on if you have a huge stick to set it up with and don't mind the king swing if you fall off!
The name of this route is, "Straight out of Campton"
this route sucks bad. deserves no stars. seriously. - matt
Cool route, but I still like Steelworker better.
I love this route. It's definitely another Terry Kindred classic!
clean aid my ass. maybe with the love-tron
i think it was called your a gay-ass shitbag.
I think this felt about 5.11c.
this boulder problem was done by alot of people before tony bubbs ascent. 3 in one day in 1990.
you're not allowed to use the gargantuan hueco on the route. SCEC will be after your ass.
Man, these holds hurt my hands. Sharp jugs.
warm up! Gosh dang it I need to learn how to lead.
it's called the embargo
i might have this first lead of this route 1987
nice...real nice. I'd like to do it again when it's not pitch black and freezin' cold!
This route fucking kicked my ass!
awesome- perfect stone, great moves
I always call this route "cum and she'll like ya"
I'M GONNA F*CK IT UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wow! That's incredible! You're probably the only one who's ever been on it and coming back for more. What weekend did you get on it? What a pile of useless information to go in a guidebook dickwad. The least you could do is post when you're going back, so we could avoid you.
Un Pile!
Horatio you are the MAN!
corrected route name is "mona lisa overdrive" - and it ain't a 11a - try b/c
fa rob mcfall
Watch for loose rock, I was pelting my belayer!
FA by Chris Chaney and Brian Rogers.
No, I really didn't lead this route. It truly sucks though.
This wall is a pile.
Disgustingly dirty.
One of my favorite RRG multi-pitch routes!
You were off route or blind. I clipped that sucker!
Soloed this way back before I knew what climbing was.
My first 5.10 lead. And a great one at that.
Had it clean on TR until I got hung up in a dead branch at the top out. Great route!
I felt it was more like 5.9 R. I don't remember rap anchors, we rapped KY Pinstripe.
one of the best routes at the red... very hard for 12c. i think its more like 12d
Okay, so I only completed the first pitch when I wimped out trying that first roof.
BTW, I left a black Metolious cam on the ledge.
Yes it does suck. Maybe its the Gunkish rating.
To the first anchors (5.11a). Are you kidding? There are no holds after the lower anchors ;o)
Great route.
In "my book", the first 2/3's gets *** and the last chossy 1/3 gets -**'s - what a fine choss pile!
If I don't get it by this Fall, it'll be an open project.
This is 12a like Baremetal Teen is 12a.
Im almost posative that Dave Hume got the FA on this, about 2 years ago
er, it's a tad longer than 55' - more like 75'?
5.10c! We were debating 5.10a vs 5.9!
Pretty cool bouldery moves through the first two bolts. Long route. Kind of turns into huge pebbly jugs for the last few bolts though.
I wish I knew the anchors were gone before I climbed it. I traversed all the way to the anchors on Armed.
It deserves another star. Great first pitch. Might be a 10c too.
Rap off rap station above Whiteout - one rope (with stretch) to ground.
Way easier than Ro Shampo.
What rat-baby meant to say was, "Good job man that thing is cool... too bad I suck and can't climb it."
Definately a one move wonder, although the one move can be avoided! But deinfately a classic! a must do!
OS to 1st anchor
no one cares
the coolest stopper placements in the Red- water grooves rule
Classic RRG 5.6- river crossing/bushwack/big hill/crappy 1st pitch/ great payoff pitch w/ cool exporsure and top out!!!
every climber should do this route as a rite of passage into RRG climbing
Some love it -some hate it , The payoff pitch is great!! check out the orange and green dayglow lichen
One of the best 5.7s in the southeast!
waiting for a grade conformation, let me know
Both pitches add up to about 100 ft. Save a big piece (~ #4 Camalot) for the short offwidth at the top. Rap station on tree to the right.
very runout!
definately the hardest of the routes from kampsight to C sharp B flat, would agree on a 9+, 10a rating
And I don't care that no one cares because I climbed it for me not you. I am psyched for my own accomplishment.
I lead the route, finding an obvious crux solution that Jerry Bargo had 'missed' I was Belayed by John Cioci. I think Jerry came up the cliff after this and joined John and I on "She Loves Me." I am not certain or have forgotten if Jerry climbed the line when it was originally freed.
On the first ascent, which was done without cams, I placed a 10" tube chock in a horizontal 1/2 way up for pro.
-Tony Bubb
Mike Heffner and Willie Hunt? Where's the Love? I was on the FA, as was Mindy Huddleston. In fact I believe I belayed Mike- it was his first FA.
Also- a reasonably sized loos rock was pulled off of this route on the FA and more may remain. Careful!
-TonyBubb
Jerry cam up the hill and tied in as the 3rd of the FA party here.
The name came from John's uncertainty of the gear as he went up, reporting the status as good or bad by shouting down, 'she loves me' or 'she loves me not.' As most of the gear is quite good, the route was named she loves me.
-Tony Bubb
Not Kyle, Cale Schaffer, I think.
Porter did this crack free solo for the FA.
Why are you people so mean?
I think this is one of the best 5.11d routes in the Red.
Wow What a route! Yep, whoever breaks that hold off is going down!!!!!!
Grungy start, big easy pockets, sit down rest, crimpy wandering face....?
only did the first pitch
I always figured this would be the gorge's first 5.13- when the rest of the holds broke off.
It was rated 5.4, Larry, but when I did it in maybe 1992, I felt it was closer to 5.7 or 5.8. Consensus said it was harder than your rating suggested- and I *AM* a trad climber, so I think it's fair. Some of the parterns I had fell/hung on this but flashed sunshine/moonbeam.
I've seen some pretty good climbers get totally stumped on this line. we always said 5.9+... +what, I don't know. a #4 camlot is nice to have in the roof belay.
This route was a lot harder before the big tree fell at the base in 1992 and eliminated the first roof moves as the earth was raised there.
You can get a few tricams in under the roof and a few more after- thin TCU's might go as well, but it's actually solid climbing and you don't have to sew it up. Did laps in 1993/1994 on 3-4 peices of solid gear when I had the head not to place too much and get pumped. THe crux is NOT the severe overhang, it's toward the end.
The yardstick 11d sport at RRG when I was there. Great climb it was!
Pretty hard/awkward. Solid at it's grade.
The runout comes early and you are fresh when it does- plenty of gumbies have survived this lead. It was one of Power2U's first trad leads... heh heh heh...
Awkward and thrutchy good-time fun!
Pumpy layback up top for 5.8 climbers.
I origionally wanted to name this line "and now for something completely different" as it has a little of everything. Sadly, I fell on the FA attempt and Jerry Bagged it first.
Named for the texture of the rock.
I have to agree that this is a classic at it's grade!
Hard at it's grade if you have small hands- for once the crux is more than just pulling the lip!
The first, adn I believe ONLY climb I ever left a peice in in the Red (red tricam under the flake a partner hung on could not be cleaned).
I went with "G.I. Jeff" (Jeff Dul) to climb this one- I lead it all, I think. it was funny to see a 5.12 sport climber on this. He was a good sport about it, but later said "that had NOHTING to do with climbing."
Maybe a little hard at the grade. I'd suggest 5.10.
Stiff at the grade.
Great route and really fun. A good prerequisite for the beenestalker- not quite as hard, in my opinion, and with good gear the whole way.
Not the classic that the guides claim...
The routes main merrit is the fun way of popping through the roof. It can be a grunt, or an interesting and gymnatic affair.
Great finish done as one pitch off of the top of Hardcore Jollies- it's like the finish that should have been the whole time and makes the route full-length.
Fun climb and good jamming- should get more traffic than it does.
The rating is down to it's original rating then...
This climb gets slimey with high humidity- or at least it used to. Maybe with the higer traffic in the 90's it has cleaned up a little?
Shame to hear that someone took one of the original test-peices (mental) and bolted it. I would have thought that this diversity at the wall would have been more valued than another squeezed-in bolt line.
Short crux- one of my first 12 on-sights. Felt easy at the grade.
This route was origianlly rated 5.10 and was hard at the grade. I don't know about 11d though?!?! did holds break off?
with the draws haninging and beta being spwewed, this was a fascinating flash...my drawers would have been wet if I had to on sight hang em though.
I have never been so scared on any thing of this grade before. Realy skews the mind.
When does 'Fall' officially start?
This was my first lead climb outside. It was great and hope to go back and do it again.
you can sling a plate if you want
This lead keeps your attention. Felt a bit harder than 5.11a.
This climb was a waste of three bolts and chains.
Sorry, HF I agree with bberlier this route kicks ass and deserves 3 stars.
Like the Rifleman, this route is awesome and deserves 3 stars!
Heinous crimping!
Does this thing really suck that much or did someone forget the stars??
Jerry did get the FFA. I did it the spring or fall prior with Willie, but I fell on lead and Willie followed- no clean FFA until Jerry did it later. At the time, I was "sent on it" with someone and when I told Jerry I could get it next go, he suggested that he found the cliff and the line (true, that) and would appreciate out staying off of it. So we did not try to lead it again.
I thought this line was known as The Audition or That Golden Flake
must ... resist ... erf ... must ... not ... cheat ... to ... tree
Don't be scared off, the holds are there where you need them to keep it a 10a. Very cool because the moves are so different than most routes at the Red! (more like some limestone areas)
heady, but fun
11b? More like 10d/11a.
My plan is working. I'll change the name.
The tree is cheating?????
Wes took the longest lead fall I've ever seen, on this route! Scared the hell outta me!
no, i really don't think it does. a one move wonder at the anchors. i guess if you like mule dicks covered in snot then it deserves 3 stars. if you like good routes, however, do something else.
unlike the rifleman, this thing kicks ass!
This route is really good classic red river pocket pulling. 2-3stars for sure. If you start from the boulder its about 11a/b, if from the ground, 12a. Have fun figuring out the anchor clipping sequence!
Geez. My 100<sup>th</sup> RRG on-sight.
Geez. My 100th RRG on-sight!
My 105th RRG on-sight.
FA: Greg Martin, 2002
This may be blasphemy, but I actually like this line better than Breakfast Burito.
If this is the last bolted line before the crack it is harder than 10a. More like 10d.
I didn't use the bolt, but don't do that.
One of the best routes in the Red!
Your belayer may need an umbrella and a helmet - dirt and the occasional hold rain off this route - may be harder than 9+ when it cleans up.
8 bolts
8 bolts and a single quick link for lowering
Deserves ***!
Whoops, I had two routes mixed up, that comment applies to Long Live Trad, not Willie's Way.
The story on Willie's Way is that Willie scoped it and was going to do it, but when he did, he found Jerry-the-scammer's Business card up top. Not too cool, considering the story about Long Live trad in which we pulled back from hitting it. Hmmm. Not saying I don't like Jerry, I do, but he's a route scammer.
This thing has to be one of the best pure endurance routes at the red. 100 feet of great climbing on very different, highly featured rock. Another overlooked gem.
Pretty dirty and crumbly for the first 40 ft. then about 20 feet of cool fist jamming. The tree with the original anchors was rotten so I had to top it out through 10 feet of chimney. Bring large gear for the first 40 feet.
more like 12a or 12b
Solo with an ascender for self-belay.
Does it really merit no stars??
mmmm, tasty
if you can climb the chimney frontwards or backwards, how can the bolts always be to your left???? arghhhhhhh, my head!!!!!!!!!
You can probably remove the x rating since the jumbled pile of rock has been romved from the base of this.
How about Dec. 13.
It's called Dipto Dopto, not Dotto.
Great route. I loved it. Beautiful view from the top.
Very cool route. Great view from the top.
Definitely one of the coolest 5.10 routes in the Red.
more like power2u: I suck at climbing so I fucking spray to every one about the routes I"ve done so I look better and peope think I'm cool when really they just think I'm a dumb ass clown who talks shit about routes that every one else and their mom climbed a million years ago. More Power2u: I'm a 5.12 climber cause I do like a million routes a day. Hey guys! whats up? I'm over here and did all these lame ass gumby routes today. Don't I look like a big peice of sun baked shit? rat-baby says: It's amazing how the people who suck have the most to spray about.
Chester FA'd a sport route!!!
I love this route.If you get into the heuco,you can hear your heartbeat. I rate this 5.10d **
I would rate this climb 5.11a *
cool route.stay on the arete for the anchors.5.9 *
I'm working this route right now.cleaning it up with a brush.lots of moss.so far i have gotten a no hands stance for clipping the third bolt.(knee bar right,lay hard to the left).A sit rest after clipping the fourth.and break-your-heart crimpers up to the slab part of the arrete.clipping the anchors is a breeze with a huge jug.
5.12a-b ***
Easy for the grade.
Why doesn't somebody just add another bolt to this thing?
I believe this route to be called "De-Spare" and it was put up by Blake Bowling.
Posion Ivy around the anchors in the summer
Who labeled this as a 3 star route? What moves were stellar enough for this type of claim? 1 star at most. Especially since most of the holds are bound to pop off sometime soon.
Felt like 5.11c up to the first anchors. Very cool route.
10d
5.8
I was calling it "Seeing Red Again"
Trad route. Start 25' rt. of Mystikal. Climb a crack on the face and slot on the right to a rhodo ledge. Traverse left 15 feet to a broad ledge and belay to avoid rope drag. Head up an overhang and gain a finger to handcrack in a dihedral. Pass an offwidth slot near the top and reach some anchors after a dicey slab move. 90 feet.
FA: John Bronaugh, Ryan Adams 2003.
I think Kellyn Gorder did this route, perhaps with Blake.
I thought Kellyn Gorder did this route?
**+
I thought Blake did this route.
FA by Jason Burton and Steve Kaufmann
10c...yeah, right.
10c...yeah, right.
wrong photo
Don't forget to bring stuff smaller than #2 if you want to live. In general bring plenty of everything.
Oh yea, this route is scary, technical and down right challenging and very cool.
It's as good as it looks. Levetation from heaven. Read the route description before you bushwack to the wrong crag on a hot humid day.
I don't think Scott Hammond bolted this route. Terry and Blake did this route.
The route is called Curtain Call bolted by Terry Kindred.
FA: Mark Jackson and Bob Metheney.
It is called The Audition. FA: Terry and Blake.
What a crappy route.
correction I haven't freed it yet
more like a 10d-11a.no kidding
I'd say 5.10a is right on.
Saw some dude onsite this thing. It looked pretty cool.
I had to chain at the top; I didn't see any cold shuts
Not for the aspiring 5.10 leader.
This is one of my favorate and probably one of the most underestemiated cool sport route at the red.
Why this has 2 stars and One Brick Shy only has one star I'll never know.
Another good short route...lots of fun once you climb the first 2 moves which are kinda grungy and green.
Man this is a dirty route. Still lots of loose rock. The ring anchors are gone.
There's no way this is a 5.8. 5.7 more likely. 'Penalty Box' (5.6) was harder than this one. Great route though.
For a 5.6, this is a pretty rough route. I thougt that 'Big in Japan' was easier than this on.
For this to be a 5.7, you need to stay way to the right. But then you have to reach way to your left to clip the bolts. I guess it's a change-off...
This route was a trip. Definitely a must-do. If you don't know how to dance when you climb you will by the time you're done with this on. It's a really fun climb if you pay attention.
Whoever bolted this route (bottom half) hates people. The upper bolts are in line with where they should be, bottom half sucks. Evil Chimney.
How did this get 2 stars? Also, what's the deal with the anchors at top being put in a bass-akwards way? Route needs 9 draws, plus anchors.
Fun, Fun, Fun, Fun... Yippie, thank you to the person that bolted this route for me.
This is a must do. You know... I completely forgot to turn around and look at the view from all of these routes and now I'm kicking myself. Will need to get back down to The Red soon. Great climb.
Oops. Fixed it.
This route is definitely a 5.8, especially since a lot of holds have broken off of it since it was put up. It's being uprated with the permission of the FA.
fun route by the way! Easier on lead than on top rope for some reason.
it's a sport route - so the tree is off. But the chimney is on?? Fun route, regardless.
This route is no harder than the routes to the left of it.
Why would this route have an R rating? Upon casual observation it appears to be a continuous OW. I don't know much about trad but I bet if someone did they could probably find sufficient protection.
If you plan on straddling the big flake to get to the 2nd bolt keep in mind you'll hit the ledge a few feet off the ground if you fall. It doesn't look fun.
I'm 225 lbs and routinely twist holds set in gyms.....I didn't feel any of the holds "pulling" or popping. Don't climb when it's wet and the route is fine.
Best route in the "Trash Compactor" protects just fine, slight run out between the bolt and the first piece of gear you can get.
Deserves more than one star...great face climbing...cool moves seperated by good rests.
Scarry!!! Some bad rock at the top in the alcove...I busted off a hold yesterday, and then run out at the top on lichen covered rock! YIKES!
This definitely is the best route West of the Mississippi. Only two stars? This George classic deserves 3 stars if you ask me!
This routes is also as hard as it looks. I would also bring a #5 camalot for the top.
more like 11b to me, and only 1 star, hvae definatly been on better routes
I've been climbing in the gorge for three years now. Up until recently, I've only cleaned the climbs (5.6-5.8). Recently, I climbed this as my first lead. It rocked! Perhaps now I'll have the nerve to lead other climbs? Maybe. It was a fun climb and I would certainly recommend it, especially as a wake-up climb in the morning. Peace out.
-Gondrewzo
Very fun route. Nice intro to hand-fist stacking.
This route is pretty good. Technical crux at mid height, with cool moves that flow well down low & the rock is pretty solid....BTW Soundgarden rules:)
who said this thing was 13c??????
Pretty fun route. Worth the walk over to do it for sure.
Aug 2, 2003: Wasps in one of the pockets about 10ft off the ground, a couple feet to the right of a plumbline from the anchors.
Sorry, that should have been "a couple of feet to the left"
Too bad you have such a bad attitude:( I'll be psyched for you when you do Welcome to Old Kentuck!, and can't wait to hear from you how it goes when you do it. Good luck with it.
Man, this is one of my most favorite routes ever at the red. Its just a little short. Definetly deserves some stars.
Needless to say, give the rap station a good look before you use it. The previous webbing I found was chewed though or cut.
This route is so fun!! Thanks for leading it, Loren!
Yay!
Up Yonder only (for now?...)
Crazy crux section at the 6th bolt, but a fun route. Thanks for ruining everyone else's onsite with that comment, J.H. Punk.
killer line, with a commiting move to the horizontal....one of the best in The Red!
Hey, the name changed...? Was Spoonman?
Pretty cool route, maybe a bit tough for 5.9? Watch out for wasps near the top.
Cool route, maybe easy 5.11? Gear isn't super great, so make sure to have your game face on.
Stays dry in heavy rain
this is the best 5.10 trad route in the gorge! it's called the "bald pussy route of death".
10d - 11a?
If this route gets 2 stars, then Shaggy should get 7.
Aug 11, 2003 - 5 copperheads in the crack of the climb.
This Picture is for the Wrong Route, the pictuer is of the route to the left
Short but fun route - great view atop.
Couple of variation exist on this route as well.
Yeah, it was not the easiest 5.6 I have come across but a very nice route.
Climbed on lead with one foot wrapped up.
Fun route. Climbed with one foot wrapped up (injuries, injuries...)
Another great route for the red. The second pitch is a questionable 5.6 but nice exposure - and a great view.
I would give this route a 3-star rating - tons of fun
Use a 60 meter rope. 45 meters was a little on the short side.
free soloed
You DON'T want to wrap from that tree!!!
Nice balancing act on this route. I would give it two stars - even though the anchors are sketchy.
This is where I grabbed a handful of sand at the anchors. Humm, that made my day - such a stupid mistake. Reach for the right side atop anchors is far better in my opinion.
What is the bolted route to the right of the dihedral? It has a high first bolt.
The route is no longer poorly protected.
changed rating to 10c
this route is like 12c MAYBE!!!!!!!!!
3 stars in my book
Be careful on this thing Air Canada and I collectively broke off three holds around the second bolt this past weekend. This thing is pretty dirty too...it may take a while for this climb to evolve into a decent route.
Maybe not 11a? More like 10c/d.
Wes
A watched Hamsco hang all over this route!
There are 10 bolts now.
That wasn't the easiest 10a I ever done. Almost lost my nerves on that last move.
the name is Amelia's Birhtday Route. FA Hugh Loeffler May/03
I would say more like 5.10b/c, but I wouldn't go so far as 5.10d/5.11a. Fun route either way, though!
Actually there are no specific rap anchors. The traverse left lands you on an almost inescapable choss covered alcove. The best option is to traverse right instead and find a bolt for No Place Like Home and rap off that.
Josh, is this the route you took your huge whipper on?
I have updated the route name and rating as per the FA, Hugh Loeffler's request.
my lower back and ass are black and blue and hurting today, but this route was FUN!
Damn, I did not even remember putting up this route! Hey Uncle BG did you ever do anything with all the routes in Soquatchee, TN?
This is much more difficult than 5.2!
The crack has been wet a few times I've climbed it--it's not always dry.
This is a fabulous route for new climbers.
what is that supposed to mean??????
Ya this is the one! Like I said, watch that you get the sequence right at the anchors!
F.A. Barry Richardson, he called it "Life's a Beech"
Solo, with a crash pad. Yes, I am a bas ass...
My first outdoor lead!
Damn this route is STEEP!
Second worst climb I've done at the Red! Hooky Pals is worse!
Waste of eight bolts and one star.
10a is right on...best route on the wall, IMO.
Rating is approximate. Possibly 12d.
The run out to the anchors is about fifteen feet and the fall is clean. The difficulty is 5.10 (on this last section). Not too bad. It puts the sport back into sport climbing.
This route currently has a big tree hanging from the top of the cliff over the last two bolts.
Good moves, and it has cleaned up some as the rock seemed pretty solid.
This route is totally contrived, no less than 3 holds that are so glued that you feel like your back in the gym.
rating about 12a
great route. more like 11+
Yea, I knew it was Spoonman's route so I called it Spoonman. I finally got the correct name of the route.
I climbed this route for the first time on 8/23/03. What a great climb!
It has a solid 5.9 move
Great route,still pristine with sharp edges
The pinnacle is harder than 5.5,the bottom easier
It's a sport route on a trad only wall,a fun diversion.
I agree. *** for sure.
I top roped it first. More of a head point.
The start is the only thing that keeps this route from being a classic,the moves are stellar and the exposure is good.
Real soft rock at the bottom.
Climbs better than it looks.
The copperheads have been there for years. Please respect their territory and leave them be!
A very cool link up os to do the initial crack of VIsion and then step left and pull the overhang on KY Pinstripe. I did it very shortly after the FAs and have called it Guide's Route.
worth doing once
This ain't no sport route. Shouldn't have an "(S)" on it.
I thought the route was right on at 5.8 and I'm only 5'9". I actually took a complete newbie to it and he flashed it on TR.
5.7 for sure. It's just steep. Get over it.
Benny is right. Did this one the other day and it now has 10 bolts.
This route is the best 5.9 face route in the RRG.
It was originally underrated and then holds broke.
I aways thought this route was junk. But everyone seems compelled to do it.
This route is very, very cool. The climbing is varied and makes you think on your feet.
Cool sporty crux.
this route is way better the second time around,especially since its had some traffic
what do you think i means?
i was just wondering who graded this route? As to my knowledge only two people have done this route clean. and i was wondering if you guys just guessed on the rating or got the information from them.
i think every route on this wall is 12a except fuzzy
only a girl would call this thing 12c
12a in my book
if anyone likes this route they are a clown and need to be killed
the route was good but my tall body had a hard time hiking my feet up for the short compact moves of the crux * in my book
any wangmaster who would rip on katie brown because she is sooo much better than them needs to be kicked in the johnson
only players get on this rote
i like the sandy crimps at the crux they beg for a **** route
i saw some blonde headed foolio get on this route and failed miserably and he got really pissed and said the route was the worst route he has ever got on
i think that was a comment made out of frustration birthed by an over competitive spirit.
i saw this guy soloing this route naked and the weird thing was he was trying to feed his "rope" through the chains
true that
who is the player and or genius who bolted this route blows wang
wait this route hasnt been done and yet it has a rating and three stars how does that work? just wondering
the bottom is the best in the summer **** in my book
why dosent someone just grow some balls and crimp down?
congradulations
Freakin' awesome splitter.
best name ever for a route!
Best problem of it's grade in the RRG. Great moves to a cool topout.
Rap from bolts on ledge -200ft rope barely makes it to the ground after rope stretch. Be careful.
The start is harder than 5.4 I gave it a 6 at least. The top will chew up a rope.
V3 is right on if you have it wired.
I thought the route was right on at 5.8 and I'm only 5'9".
I attempted to rope solo aid this thing but it seems pretty R or even X rated. Not aidable in the beginning anyway. I did a direct first pitch variation.
Or you can place a small cam in the back of the chimney...
Great intro short intro to OW/chimneying
Comparable to Casual Viewing but the rock is a little softer. Very fun and very aesthetic position.
If Green Eggs and Ham only get one star each why does this get two?
This "sport route" has no anchors. Be aware. Also is usually home to wasps at the top in the summer.
THis route is not terribly "R" rated. The start is the most risky climbing on the route.
I really enjoy this route. It climbs really well...and flares to the inside.
Its like a girl with a big ass and no tits........all the business is at the bottom!!!
I accidentally selected this route for my spray list.
Short but sweet.
Short but sweet.
This route is short but it's worth doing.
To locate this route, hike pretty far right from Superslab. If you feel like you passed the route, just keep hiking.
It's worth the hike.
Wandering, contrived line.
10a, no harder, and best route on wall!
This thing is a pile. If you insist on climbing it, I would strongly recomend putting your belayer in a helmet. I was pulling off brick sized rocks the entire way up.
What no picture?
If you did it for yourself then why are you spraying so loudly about it.
The picture is of the splitter crack but the route description makes it sound like its the dihedral to the right of that. Which is it?
Protects well with hexes. Also bring some small cams for the finish.
This was my first trad lead ever.
This was my first route on a rope.
I really liked this route.
You too? The best part of soloing with a pad is dropping it from the top of the climb on the way out.
We did it in 1992, and then top roped the face to the left. Joe finney gets the first ascent.
Cool climb if you like grabing handfulls of sand, climbs worse than it looks.
If you don't stem of the rock behind you at the top this sucker is really pretty hard for 10a. All in all not a bad little route, minus all the poison ivy at the base of the cliff!
The lurkist said- squeeze job. i guess there is some value in having aonther option for climbing at a staging area where a bunch of people ae already hanging out. That said, I think this is clearly an example of where the route doesn't pass the test of "If there were no other routes around and I walked up on it, would I equip it?"
There is just too much other rock in the Big Sinking that would yield four star classic lines to warrant over bolting a 35 foot squeeze job.
Sorry to slag. Nothing personal intended.
I would agree with that rating.
I would agree with the 5.10c rating.
This thing is a bit harder than I had originally thought. 13a??
Last move is super fun!!
I think it can be safely fallen on and well protected with micro-cams. I'm gonna find out next week for sure. If you don't see me post that I freed it then you know what happened.
Cool route with nice moves.
How do you know who did the FA?
It is much better than the one to the left.
Bubb, you just wish that you could climb a chimney like ynot.
A 50m rope is insufficient to get down from the anchors in one rappel or lower! Take a 60m.
Third hanger missing making it an R route. Hitch a wire over it for pro.
It was more fun than the rating suggested.
When I lead it, I thought that it would probably be harder than 5.6, too, but the kids I took up there (none of which climbed higher than 5.7) had no trouble with it.
This route has been chopped.
One move wonder...cool move, but a one move wonder none the less. You do it on TR as you would stick clip the first bolt, due to the rock at the climbs base, which also takes away from the climb. Kinda weird that way the climb ends in the middle of the cliff too, and I am not sure 11d is accurate, probably easier like Allah suggests.
Finally the temp. is cool enough to do this thing...get on it!
This route sucks goat wangs!
Better plan on building an anchor for your second. Old moldy sling on a dead tree at the top.
Good rappell tree off towards the right though.
Pretty sure its the splitter. The rock quality is bad.
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Unfortunately, the tree that used to serve as the rap station for this climb has been cut down. You can walk over to the top of Frenchburg and rap with two ropes as an alternative to using the stump.
The bolted route to the right of this crack is called Scrambled Porn 11d * FA: Terry Kindred Crimpy. 60 ft. 6 bolts.
VERY cool route.
Great hand jamming! Wicked cool finish...gotta love that deadpoint to the dead pine.
The rope drag was horendous. Split it into 2 pitches.
This whole wall is great!
What a typical RRG scandal
sweet beginning, jug your way to the top....fun route!
I have pics of this route if anyone wants others. long route
I highly agree Wes....its long but really not technical at all
Just a touch harder than 12c in my opinion, considering it kicked my ass, I think it is almost as hard as the thing to the left of it.
Just sent this thing the other day, bad ass route, but it sucks that you have to jump the fence, i got my rope bag caught on it, and the thing ripped, fuckin fence im gonna take it out as soon as i find the time
I think this route is just a little longer than 100 ft, its the longest thing in the Cave, i would say about 130 ft or so
how could someone give this route 5 stars????? its chipped!!!!!!!!!!!!! therefore the route dosent deserve 5 stars
I took a nice 10 footer off the finish today. Had my hand in the summit dirt, clawing for the bush and peeled. Pulled a #3 and a #4 TCU out on the way down. Beware chossy, mossy rock at the finish. Otherwise the gear and the climbing are stellar. The first crux protects very well.
This is kind of an underated route. It is really is pretty cool.
This might be one of the best sandbags in the red. 10b? Not!
sorry bill, this route is 5:13c
5:12d/5:13b
92
Just beacuse you can climb this 5.10d, doesn't mean you won't take a 40 footer on Fire and Brimstone! YIKES!!!
longer than 60 ft.More like 75 or 80
Either no one has climbed it in a long time, or there is some really fast growing lichen/powder up there.....interesting, but not worth planning a day over.
Good climb...get on it when you have a chance and it's dry. Way better than Ale-8, Chainsaw or SKWIBA.
This thing is crazy....I think this is the most exciting arete climb I have ever been on...even on TR! I will definitley go back and give it the old red point go when it gets a little cooler.
This thing is crazy....I think this is the most exciting arete climb I have ever been on...even on TR! I will definitley go back and give it the old red point go when it gets a little cooler.
This climb currently haas a tree hanging down from the top of the cliff covering the anchors and top two bolts on this climb.
did somebody say undercling??? that and sidepulls....proper foot technique will make the finishing move a piece of cake..... (as I learned after taking a wipper off the top!)
Yea, I agree. It felt easier than 10c, i would say 10a most likely.
I don't think its any less slimey today.
horrible route
dont even bother placing pro, or the rope drag will be too much. rock is bad quality. it would be cool to rap all the way to the ground instead of the ledge.
sweet route
i had a great time on it, its about twice as high as it looks, after the crux, its an easy couple of feet to the top. I would reccomend you rappel off, if you make the descision to top rope, make SURE the rope isn't rubbing on any sharp edges
This route is worth doing. It needs its own anchors.
One hard move at the first bolt..followed by pure endurance climbing...looks cooler than it climbs. Fun none the less.
Historically speaking, going to the alcove on the left and then having to climb back out of it and over to the right is kind of cool. Good test of problem solving skills.
Just be sure you're comfortable with a good heel hook.
I solved that problem by not doing it in the first place. Good test of judgement skills in my opinion.
Hell yeah Sandy!
Or a lack of a spirit for adventure.
I thought this route was kind of a choss pile.
I thought it was a bit stiff too for the grade.
Awesome route. Sling a horn on the runout section and it's not runout.
12c. one of the best routes
Killer climb! Plenty of big holds mixed in with the crimps. Anyone who thinks the Red is left right left jug hauling should get on this one!
You can rap down from the tree-slings at the top of the second pitch using a single 60m rope.
funkalicious.
This is a great route. But if Headstone surfer is being called 10a than this should be rated the same.
I know Jeff has led this. I've got pictures of him on it.
Also, just left of the blunt prow about halfway through the traverse is a route called 'Accidentally Kelly Street' which goes at 5.9+ R (very serious) FA: Dave Chenault, Chris Chaney, Jason Burton, Immediately right of the same blunt prow is the route 'Nautical Twilight' which goes at 5.8X (low crux is well protected).
I know I did this sucker too...but I can't remeber if I went up as part of the FA party or if I did it on a second ascent?
I can't climb 11's, yet I onsighted it... The bottom feels no harder than a 10d, and the top no harder than a 10a.
Fun long route. Very fun!
Fun route, a little short, but worth doing at least couple of times.
This is my favorite 10 route at the red - right after AWOL.
When the climber becomes 2/3 of the way up, grab a camera: You will get great photo ops.
Short route, but totally worth doing at least twice. Nice work Jake.
That route may me think (for the start) and I loved it for it. Thanks Terry!
Stay calm on the run out, or place a piece. A lovely route to use your head (and feet)
Worth doing... and again.
There are slings for an anchor after the second OW, inside the heuco.
I am pretty sure that image is not Suction Lipectomy. Its a beautiful perfect Ow with no bottom a few feet right of the second pitch of Ralph and Bobs
The real name is "Dreanm of a bee", tha french man bolting it almost got stung by a bee on it.
*Sorry "DREAM of a bee"*
The name of this one is mark's daughter's names in french, or something like that, I really don't know it
This is a decent little beginner climb. The gear is good, the rock has cleaned up and the moves aren't half bad. Its mostly a face climb next to a crack. If it were longer and/or prettier it would be a much more popular climb I'm sure.
The direct start is very cool. Use a .75 Camalot in the horizontal.
Be sure not to try and exit the wall by following the trail left of Synergy. We tried this and ended up having to get a 15 minute ride back to our cars from a friendly local family.
If you just want to get to all the routes except Wishbone, just follow the path that criss-crosses the creek. A wall will be up the hill on your right until it curves around to be in th
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!
-Horatio
-Horatio
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longlegsrule
- Posts: 1799
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Horatio Felacio
- Posts: 3338
- Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm
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andy_lemon
- Posts: 1566
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Nah dude, it is the second most useless link since nobody in their right mind actually reads the board rules (off the board rules link or FAQ) that EVERY bbs has. At most, people read the TOS or FAQ before they register... then maybe a problem occurs, and someone else will try to dig up something to use against the admitins. That's like 2 people who read that shit in a year. 
Not a bitch.
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Horatio Felacio
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- Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm
hey SCIN, you might want to think about changing the sub-designations of the rrg around (like upper gorge, lower gorge, natural bridge area, etc.). man, it is so confusing trying to find an area like hens nest or wall of denial-you would think since you park in pretty much the sam place as lower skybridge, it would be under the same subheading of eastern gorge or whatever. maybe you could designate areas with regards to roads or something, since no one is looking at a topographic map.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
This scares me. It's, like, a legitimate post with a real suggestion.... no curse words... no sexual perversion...Horatio Felacio wrote:hey SCIN, you might want to think about changing the sub-designations of the rrg around (like upper gorge, lower gorge, natural bridge area, etc.). man, it is so confusing trying to find an area like hens nest or wall of denial-you would think since you park in pretty much the sam place as lower skybridge, it would be under the same subheading of eastern gorge or whatever. maybe you could designate areas with regards to roads or something, since no one is looking at a topographic map.
[size=75]You are as bad as Alan, and even he hits the mark sometimes. -charlie
"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]
"Not all conservatives are stupid, but most stupid people are conservative." - John Stuart Mill[/size]