Vandalism

Post by **tomdarch** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 7:17 am

I'm trying to figure out if I've done Vandalism at Oil Crack or not. The route I'm thinking of is less than vertical - it starts on a series of slopey ledges - after the slopey ledges there's a sidepull/undercling move - then some horizontals - the crux is about 2 bolts from the top - I did it with an undercling with my left hand, and a high throw with the right hand (the first time I did it to a shallow intermediate, then up to the main ledge) - it's easyish to the top - the anchors sort of suck, no hold above them to unweight when cleaning.

If so, I onsighted it - which is my highest grade onsight yet!

Post by **SikMonkey** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 11:48 am

It's the route right after the big black slab. It starts slabby then goes vert.

Mj

Post by **Johnny** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 1:37 pm

Yeah, that's the one. It's destined to be downgraded though.

ray · Post by **ray** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 2:03 pm

I disagree. I've seen shorter people have problems with that route. I think it deserves to be the first candidate for the new Short/Tall rating system.
The Verm has the V-scale, we've got the ST scale.
5.11aS/5.10dT

Also to be included is the new HC scale (Hot/Cold)
Thunderchicken 5.10dC/5.11aH

Any other candidates?

Post by **rhino** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 2:11 pm

You bastards better not take away my only 11 redpoint

Post by **SikMonkey** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 2:25 pm

Hey Ryan,
you need to put it on your tick list before it gets downgraded. Also, didn't you send Breakfast Burrito?

Mj

Post by **Jeff** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 2:34 pm

Hey Rhino,

All my (3) 11 redpoints have been down-graded.
No biggie, I'm gonna be tearin' it up this year!

Post by **t bone** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 3:27 pm

Vandalism is nice route. what is that real dirty slab near the road ?

Post by **Steve** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 4:50 pm

It ws 11a when I did it!

Post by **tomdarch** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 7:17 pm

Cool! Thanks! I've just logged it at http://www.8a.nu. Too bad it was more than a year ago, so it doesn't help my score. Still, it looks cool to have an 11a onsight up there!

Once I redpoint Fuzzy (this year damn it!), I'll just have a few more letter grades to go towards my long-term goal of redpointing 12a! (yes, yes, grades are pointless, I know)