Can you rate it if you haven't sent it?

Post by **Yasmeen** » Wed Nov 10, 2004 9:38 pm

That's right! Because the only reason we climb is to escape monsters and sit in huecos!

Post by **Canuck** » Wed Nov 10, 2004 9:49 pm

umm... what if the monster climbs up after you?

Post by **rhunt** » Wed Nov 10, 2004 10:20 pm

Canuck wrote:umm... what if the monster climbs up after you?

...and eats the rat instead of you?

Post by **Danny** » Wed Nov 10, 2004 10:22 pm

it's critical to estimate the monsters climbing abilities before choosing what to climb. once I underestimated ones abilities and she ate my balls before I finally escaped.

Post by **Roentgen Ray** » Wed Nov 10, 2004 11:54 pm

The monsters aren't always as big as you might think. I was attacked by 100's of little yellow-orange spotted monsters this weekend at Funk Rock. Thankfully, the freeze Monday night did most of 'em in.

Post by **hashplant5** » Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:28 am

Im obviously in the minority with my opinion, but as a boulderer, I feel climbs/ problems should be rated more by technique than pump factor, only because skill is not strength, theres no such thing as a number of pullups equaling a rating. Therefore I am forced to also say that many sport climbs at the red are GENEROUSLY rated and you can totally rate without even coming close to sending......pump is not a factor !!!!

Post by **Caspian** » Thu Nov 11, 2004 1:26 pm

Danny wrote:it's critical to estimate the monsters climbing abilities before choosing what to climb. once I underestimated ones abilities and she ate my balls before I finally escaped.

I thought something seemed different about you

Post by **rhunt** » Thu Nov 11, 2004 4:20 pm

hashplant5 wrote:Im obviously in the minority with my opinion, but as a boulderer, I feel climbs/ problems should be rated more by technique than pump factor, only because skill is not strength, theres no such thing as a number of pullups equaling a rating. Therefore I am forced to also say that many sport climbs at the red are GENEROUSLY rated and you can totally rate without even coming close to sending......pump is not a factor !!!!

We should start a new thread then. Lets re-rate all the climbs at the Red 12a or harder by the single hardest move..ie technique..that would be interesting

Post by **Wes** » Thu Nov 11, 2004 4:55 pm

As a great example of what this thread is talking about, I got on Mercy for the first time yesterday. Leading it bolt-to-bolt, felt like mid 5.11. Just nice v1/v2 boulder problems the whole way. But, when I started trying to link those *easy* problems together, they all the sudden got way harder. It is one of the coolest routes I have ever done, still I don't think it is 12c though.

Wes

Post by **Artsay** » Thu Nov 11, 2004 4:57 pm

I don't think it's 12c either. More like 12a.

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