More bolts at Roadside

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:18 pm

dirty=lichen, loose rock, fragile holds
retro-bolting-no one is forcing you to clip them
bolt all cracks-i plan to bolt welcome to ol' kentuck so all sport climbers that can't place gear can send it

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:20 pm

yawnnnn....old argument...the first ascensionist, historically, has the final say as to how a route is equipped or re-equipped. Johnny the king has spoken, so get over it.

go ahead an bolt any new crack you find..if I want to plug gear, I still will. The bolts don't bother me. there is nothing moral or righteous about a "non bolted" crack, but then 10 feet to the right is an 8 bolt face climb.... a bolt in the rock is a bolt in the rock is a bolt in the rock...

so if trad trips yer trigger, you are 100% free to climb on gear on ANY route in the world...seriously..ANY route.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:20 pm

aaron, are you one of those psort climbers who can't send it??? just curious...

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:22 pm

i climb both sport and trad (i boulder too). no, i can't send it. i climb 5.12 on a good day. are you one of those sport climbers that can't send it? just curious.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:28 pm

never been on it..don't know....it looks good though..I climb 5.14 on a bad day...

Post by **parhelia** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:29 pm

so now even more people can climb AWOL and all those becuase there is a warm up right there. no need to walk around a couple corners to find a warm up. and forget messing with that silly trad gear stuff... just too much work to learn, and too dangerous. valor over discretion? does that mean the route might be a little bit risky? well... we wouldn't want any of that in a climbing route. oh, and let's not forget that more traffic in an area that already has too much traffic is always what we need. (for the dense allow me to point out here that all of the above is pure sarcasm)

many people climb this route who do not feel the need to "spray" to an online forum about it. it has been an established route at roadside since over 25 years, with no need for bolts. Valor Over Discretion requires knowledge and attention, and therefore is interesting beyond simply the ability for someone to get to the top. bolting the line allows people to get on it who will not necessarily consider the risks associated with it for a fall around the corner or the rope drag.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:29 pm

btw, I don't see a single 5.12 on your spray list..are you lying to me?

Post by **parhelia** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:45 pm

Just as every person has the ability to climb a bolted route on gear, each also has the ability to go learn to place gear if a desired route does not have bolts on it.

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:46 pm

me? i have done 2 if you call them 12's. stay the hand and scar tissue. i don't see a single 14 on your spray are you lying to me?

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:59 pm

yes, I am lying to you...I can't even climb 5.13.......har de har har....you better egt bold on lead bro..I hear YOSAR only takes hard asses with good lead heads...I am assuming leading 5.12 on trad on granite is pretty much a prereq to make the crew....hopefully this summer will embolden you....