Help --- top rope routes in the Red
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aaron
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Guest
top roping at the Red just isn't easy. I've been to areas where I could scramble to the top, but the anchors are usually not at the top of the cliff so it's damn dicey to set the top rope. Using trees is always an option, assuming there are good ones, but it's easy to injure them. I think that if going to a popular crag isn't appealing, a person's best bet is to ask for a tour with a moderate rope gun. There's a ton of nice climbers at the Red who would be happy to take out new climbers.
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aaron
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andy_lemon
- Posts: 1566
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 2:22 am
If you want to top-rope sport routes just stick aid. It is a safer and more ecologically sound method than approaching from the top. Remember to tie in short. Be courteous and stay away from the popular areas. You would look like quite an ass hogging a popular sport route. I am sure most people out there frown upon the practice. I only do it when I go climbing solo and want to push my limit but not a soul is around. Do not attempt stick aiding unless you completely understand the method.
Last edited by TradMike on Fri Feb 13, 2004 7:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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aaron
i just go boulder if i can't find anyone to climb with. or solo within your limits. i think it usually isn't a problem to find people to climb with or someone to hang a rope for you. back when i couldn't climb well, i had people bail me out by finishing climbs for me or i just stick clipped my way up. neither is fun but it's nice to know that someone would help you out.
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andy_lemon
- Posts: 1566
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 2:22 am
I'll try to summarize:Sandy wrote:top roping at the Red just isn't easy. I've been to areas where I could scramble to the top, but the anchors are usually not at the top of the cliff so it's damn dicey to set the top rope. Using trees is always an option, assuming there are good ones, but it's easy to injure them. I think that if going to a popular crag isn't appealing, a person's best bet is to ask for a tour with a moderate rope gun. There's a ton of nice climbers at the Red who would be happy to take out new climbers.
Sandy is exactly right - hang out at Miguel's, be friendly and you'll probably be able to find people to meet up with the next day who will hang your rope on stuff for you.
Alternately, if you show up at a popular crag (left flank, military, torrent, roadside, etc.) and wait in line at the popular/easy routes, the party ahead of you will usually be willing to swap out your rope/gear when they clean the route. Remember not to hog the route - consider letting others 'play through' if you're going to be on the route for a while. (if two strong/fast climbers want to get on the route, pull your rope, let them run up it and put your rope back)
Finaly - don't toprope 'directly off the anchors'. This means, don't just run your rope through the chains/rings/links that are up there. TRing wears them out quickly, which is a big deal on popular routes. Put up at least two quickdraws on the anchor gear, and run your rope through them. One issue is that you need to know how to clean the anchors and rap/lower off.
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