Excalibur

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Johnny
Posts: 580
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 9:28 pm

Post by Johnny »

The R is the crux stem, but it's a very soft R. The bolt almost helped, but Tbone is right, it's worthless. Jimmy in some wires, fire the crux, then put in a good cam. The fall is fine. I wouldn't belay at the bolt either. A better stance is below the crux about 20 feet or so.
Wicked Tribe
Posts: 469
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2003 8:25 pm

Post by Wicked Tribe »

Is the climbing through the R section secure or dicey? What about the rest of the climbing? Is it all *** or just the crux pitch?
Do Not Spray Next 300 Feet
Johnny
Posts: 580
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 9:28 pm

Post by Johnny »

The first section is totally hands and big hands with cams galore. You belay, then it narrows to fingers and a seam. You can put in good gear below the crux, but not actually in the crux. Right above the crux you have good gear again. The climbing is easier with a jumbly crack, but kinda funky like Tbone said. The exit move that goes right is a bit unnerving, but safe. If the thing was downrated to PG, it would be fine with me. You can belay above the crux before you head right, or run it together and get a bit of rope drag.
If you're still not sure, you can always put a big TR on the whole thing pretty easily. Belay from the top.
Wicked Tribe
Posts: 469
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2003 8:25 pm

Post by Wicked Tribe »

Who wants to TR it? I just love beta.

Thanks, I'm gonna have to finally go do it this fall.
Do Not Spray Next 300 Feet
Wicked Tribe
Posts: 469
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2003 8:25 pm

Post by Wicked Tribe »

What kind of clean aid climb would it make? C1? C2?

Hey Ray! Why isn't this route and area in the OG?
Do Not Spray Next 300 Feet
TradMike
Posts: 1173
Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 2:57 am

Post by TradMike »

I don't think you can aid through the crux section - mandatory free from what I hear.
Wicked Tribe
Posts: 469
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2003 8:25 pm

Post by Wicked Tribe »

The FA was aided then it was later freed according to Johnny's spraybook.
Do Not Spray Next 300 Feet
Johnny
Posts: 580
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 9:28 pm

Post by Johnny »

You could aid it. Just a long reach. But WT, you've got the skills to do the route free anyway.
Wicked Tribe
Posts: 469
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2003 8:25 pm

Post by Wicked Tribe »

I'm gonna go do it very soon I think. I felt really good on Long Live Trad this weekend even after taking the whipper. One or two more single pitch 5.10s to get the blood flowing real nice and I'll go out there and hike the sucker.
Do Not Spray Next 300 Feet
Steve
Posts: 1745
Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2002 1:34 am

Post by Steve »

You got back on LLT Wicked, right on! Was that felled tree still hanging over the lip aiding/hindering in the top out?
I see they are still lopping off mountains in Eastern Kentucky. Electricity isn't cheap.
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