Who's line is it?

[dustonian]

The original aid/free routes were established ground-up, of course. Most of the free routes were inspected/rehearsed/protected with more of a "modern" top-down ethic. Two exceptions may have been the first free ascent of the Salathe, I am not sure how Piana and Skinner did that one, as well as the Nose (Lynn Hill of course).

[clif]

hmm. i dont want to derail this thread unless it's time has come, but for to me for what you say to be true then any line you apply that to would have had the last pitch climbed first and then worked your way down.... this just seems ridiculous, especially without having aided up the entire thing first to suss it out, work sequences...
and as you say, if the most iconic ascents did it that way, at best you're coming in second.

[dustonian]

They typically rap in from the top to work out the pro and moves on crux pitches. And most of the free routes feature several variations to the original aid pitches that were worked on rappel from the anchor on the original aid pitch. Recent ascents of the Prophet have involved first fixing the route from top to bottom in full-on siege tactic style.

[clif]

ok, parsing, but 'variations' on the original aid pitches is not even close to
top-down style of establishing big-wall free climbs

errr, and isn't there a couple of guys working on a ground up FA?

[clif]

Recent ascents of the Prophet have involved first fixing the route from top to bottom in full-on siege tactic style.

and is anybody impressed?

[dustonian]

sponsors are, apparently

[clif]

i haven't read the mags in many years but just took a look at supertopo and these guys (Leo Houlding) worked this route ground up for years then the already established 13c/d(A1, ?-Bad to the bone) pitch top down...., if i read it correctly

[pigsteak]

Clif, i am not wrong. All the old farts have not caught up with the times. Si ngle pitch gear routes are relics. Trad climbing is like the republicans in this election cycle. You vote for the black socialist muslim and your children will grow up meth heads. Traditionalist try to scare folks away from progress and reason. It gives me supreme joy to see caribe gleefully drink the kool aid of ridiculousness.

[clif]

i can sense you're hungry for the truth. i believe in you

[LK Day]

Piggie, either you're just trying to keep things stirred up, or you're impossibly ignorant, which one is it?