Top 5 Ethics

[mssmith]

Do not lower off glue-ins.

rap from glue ins???? haven't had to bail off glue ins yet ( you may find some of my nuts and hexes though) but wondering if this is permissible. can't imagine pulling an un-weighted rope after rappelling does any damage. correct me if i'm wrong

[Jeff]

Rapping is not the issue with glue ins as I would imagine all new glued anchors also have chain or rings.
Lowering directly through a glue in is not only the poorest of form but also pretty hard to do as one biner already takes up a lot of room. Now try to go direct to one glue in bolt mid-route, untie, re-thread, and then lower, knowing the whole time you are putting unwanted and unnecessary wear on that bolt, while at the same time, making you a huge dickhead.
New bolts, new rule. If you must bail off a route that has glue ins, bail off you're own gear. Don't fuck it up for everyone else.

edit: Thank You!

[dustonian]

Thanks for putting it that way & playing the diplomat as ever, Jeff

Please leave a biner or quicklink if you must bail mid-route---same as you would on a "normal" bolt hanger. I would recommend picking up a few quicklinks or cheap biners if you are prone to bailing in the middle of routes.

[heacocis]

I would be happy to donate a Wave Bolt to an educational cause if it were to go in the Kiosk, or hung at Miguel's, or what ever. I still hear people call them "staples" and have no idea what they are, or how safe they are. Interestingly though, the same people climb right up the routes equipped with them.

[Clevis Hitch]

The Bible has a verse- "don't throw your pearls before swine".

You guys need to think about all this effort that you are putting into this...