Alpine-Up New Trad/ Multipitch Belay Device

[ReachHigh]

The sum is symmetric. Its an go device, but I still prefer the grigri over it.

[kato]

If your argument (perspective) is written in stone, there will be no real benefit to innovation. The quality of the industry will also take a hit after patents fade.

Well, I would not claim that my argument is written in stone, but sometimes simplicity is a feature.

[kneebar]

Looks like the same market as the atc guide and petzl reverso. The only advantage of the new device is it auto locks for belaying a leader. I'm all about innovation if the added safety benefit doesn't outweigh the ease of use. I'd like to play with one though!

[pawilkes]

I am not a huge fan of the click up, I mean it works well but I'd still rather have my grigri. The Alpine Up is pretty sweet though b/c it serves the functions of the ATC Guide and Grigri. I could see getting one if I didn't already have 10 belay device or if i could get a deal on it. Art, I think the dynamic mode is very necessary although I agree some simplicity is lost with the extra hole. It seems like this hole is necessary when belaying up a second as well.

[caribe]

I am not a huge fan of the click up, I mean it works well but I'd still rather have my grigri.

Is it just preference Phil? You handle an ATC with no problem. You did not appear to be sketched by the CU during the many times I caught your ass flying. I think that you are right about the need for the hole when belaying the second. In this case there is no problem with the extra carabiner attachment point.

[pawilkes]

It's totally a preference thing. I have not used the device enough to be super comfortable with its functions. In the hands of experienced people I have no issues. An alpine version might motivate me to use one though

[Shamis]

I am not a huge fan of the click up, I mean it works well but I'd still rather have my grigri.

Is it just preference Phil? You handle an ATC with no problem. You did not appear to be sketched by the CU during the many times I caught your ass flying. I think that you are right about the need for the hole when belaying the second. In this case there is no problem with the extra carabiner attachment point.

Hmm, wait...so you are saying that the click up doesn't work in auto-locking mode when belaying a 2nd?

[pawilkes]

it does work in auto locking mode but like a ATC Guide or Reverso, not like a Clickup. That is why you clip the device into the anchor through a specific hole

[rmcfall]

I know this thread is about the Alpine-Up, but since the Click-Up is also mentioned and there are similarities between the two, I thought I'd share my recent experience with the device. I was under the impression that the Click-Up was an auto-locker and possibly a good alternative to the Gri-Gri, but here's what I found out...

Operates similar to an ATC, so easy to use
Is an ASSISTED breaking device, NOT an auto-locker like the Gri-Gri, Sum, or Eddy

Consequently, if one's brake hand doesn't engage the rope [as it always should no matter the device - i.e., Gri-Gri], the climber seems likely to be dropped in scenarios where sufficient loading doesn't occur such as top-roping, clipping the chains/bolt and immediately sitting back, falls not far above the bolt, etc.

That said, it's a cool device and a nice improvement over the traditional ATC, but it doesn't belong in the same category as auto-locking devices.

[dustonian]

No devices are considered "auto-locking" anymore, given the frequent rate of accidents from poor/brake-hand-off belaying. This includes the grigri2, a "braking assist" device:

http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/belay-devices-0/grigri

and the Eddy, a "semi-automatic" belay device:

http://www.edelrid.de/en/sports/product ... /eddy.html

The SUM isn't even available in the US anymore due to its many design flaws (such as the stupid little ring you have to put on your carabiner so the thing actually works), although I think Fixe is in the process of (unfortunately) bringing it back from the dead.