Bolted cracks (gasp) for gear testing

[mssmith]

I just started climbing this spring and have yet to fall on any of my gear. Can anyone think of sport climbs ( .10s or easier) with opportunities for a variety of gear placement? Ideally I'd like to start off bomber and then progress to sketchier and sketchier placements while intentionally falling so I can develop a sense of what will hold. Having a bolt to back this process up would be nice so I don't poop my pants. Thanks!

[mike_a_lafontaine]

Face up on Left Flank is a pretty easy route (5.8) with a decent crack, though the crack itself is not bolted, you could clip into the bolt above the crack and test the gear on the crack. Not sure it would be good for anything but the larger cams, though.

[dustonian]

Roadside slab. Oh wait, never mind.

I sense an ankle injury coming on....

[Cocoapuffs1000]

I think Eureka (5.6) at Global Village used to be a trad line so I assume it takes gear. Head and Shoulders at Drive By also looks like it has placement opportunities.

[Shamis]

There are tons of bolted routes that have gear placements. Open your eyes.

[CLIMBTRAD]

+1 on eureka 5.6 takes big and small gear.Also you can place a cam at every bolt

[pigsteak]

why not back up your lead with a top rope?

[captain static]

Any trad climb w/ bolted anchors would be suitable for mock leading & mock lead falls. Suitable climbs include Father & Son, Casual Viewing, and Environmental Impact.

[dustonian]

Agreed, a mock lead is way smarter than some cockamamie "sprad" experiment.

[heath]

What fun is trad climbing without a little pants pooping? That's not a chalk bag traddies use, it's a catch bag like they use on parade horses.

Why would you ever want to take a fall on purpose? Especially on anything .10 and under. Proper gear placements aren't learned by falling on them, they are learned through experience. Plus it's not good for your gear to take unnecessary punishment. Go out with someone who knows what's up and let them show you whats up.