LK Day wrote:Scott,
Sorry that so many have chosen to respond as they have. Keep searching. Surely there are some skilled climbers that will be willing to help.
What a wussy thing to say. First of all, I have no trad skills and I am useless to this guy. Any attention this thread gets is in his benefit as more people will read it. Also, I doubt that many people would be interested in climbing with a guy that can't have some fun and take a joke. I think it is great that Scott made such a sincere and intelligent post and I am sure if he continues to seek he will find that mentor. I know Dustin is a self professed has been trad junkie and would be the perfect mentor. Just not sure if Scott is willing to pay the price of admission. If not Dustin, I am sure someone else will step up.
Scott, it may help if you shared your current climbing level. Good luck with the search. If you do hook up with Dustin make sure he buys YOUR pizza and beer.
I'm definitely no "master" (sounds like the perfect job for Ray or Blake if you ask me!) but I will get in touch next time it's warm enough to get out to Indian Creek or a Small Wall. Or maybe Russ will let us go repeat his new classics at *******. But I get to call you "Gimp"... and BTW, my rack is currently in extra-scary condition from use in route development over this winter and last fall...
And Larry, if you can't see the humor in a dude looking online for a "master" for "potential friendship" then you've been suffering in that Montana winter a bit too long!
Don't be so touchy, fellas. It wasn't my intention to slam anyone, but it was late, and I was feeling a little cranky over the UK / 'Bama game. And yep, I missed the euphemisms completely, as this is the only gay site I frequent.
Last edited by LK Day on Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
No one cratered? I started climbing in 1983 and I was self taught, read Robbins books, etc... and the only reason I am here is because I got lucky. How about the time I was just about to go over the edge on rappel with my stitch plate clipped to my Whillans gear sling... whoo! Not to mention all the times I tried to siege Arachnid with passive gear, ripping out most of it and bouncing off the ground as the rope got tight. And more than once I cleaned out the other newbies of their gear after they went outside and tried to lead 5.8 and decked then promptly had a fire sale.
No , I would not advocate learning on your own. Not in the Red. I think becoming a belay bitch for a trad daddy is the way to go.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
I'm no master and don't climb much now. trad is about grabbing the right piece the first time,shoving it in there without fiddling with it for 10 minutes,clipping it and knowing its solid. takes practice. otherwise you get burned out screwing with gear constantly and don't enjoy the climbing, so they climb sport.
I'm plotting a Seneca trip in april or may. hit me up then.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
I did the self taught thing. I read The Freedom of the Hills inside and out and several of John Long's books (the Climbing Anchors one is good). You need to take baby steps with trad. I would recommend climbing sport until you are solid at 5.10. Then you can be somewhat confident you won't die learning to climb 5.6 and 5.7 trad. A lot of trad climbs have sections you must not fall. Being a solid climber will get you through those sections. One year ago I had the unsettling experience of seeing a trad climber climber below me fall to his death. He didn't get through the don't fall section. That being said trad climbing can take you places sport won't and is some of the most memorable. Just consider your hands and feet your main line of defense and the gear is strictly a backup that may or may not hold. Keeping this mindset should keep you safe but definitely no guarantees.
