For those who trained

[ReachHigh]

after burning out on climbing last year I decided to whip myself back in to shape this summer. ran a bunch of 5K's lost 20+ lbs and started doing climbing specific warm ups. as the the temps started to drop I was starting to get some decent sends in and was looking forward to getting on all the 4-5 star 12's I could this fall/winter. After getting dropped on top rope I'm going to be limping around in a cast for the next two months and while I'm doing what I can to keep my upper body in shape and go at it this spring.

[clif]

this thread just pisses me off

[jordancolburn]

Mack, it was Expresso in Muir at the Bowling Alley. The description was just right. I got V4s in the bag so I figured I would give it a shot. All that bouldering I was doing payed off. My foot slipped on the onsight and on my second go I got it clean. The route felt a little soft to me, but I had not done a 12 before on lead.
I was at the Great Arch that same day (before the 12 send) and was pumping on the 9 there. I didn't take any hangs, but half way up I was shaking out on almost every jug there was. Like I said, no endurance all strength. So Expresso was perfect for me to send.

That was always my goal for a first 12. The bouldery start was wet the one time I got on it, so it was a little rough. Can't wait to go back.

[clif]

this thread still sucks

[Rollo]

I did Expresso 2 years ago the same day i did my first 11a.... what i didn't know then was that I was pretty damn far from being a 12 climber. The only "training" i did this year was climbing 2 times a week at the gyms (mostly Rockquest) and every saturday the wife would allow at the red. I'm finally knocking at the door.

Keeping this regimen year round will hopefully do the trick.

[rjackson]

Just finished strength, cardio tomorrow, core and fingers on Thursday, Friday rest... It ain't over yet!

[rhunt]

I agree Clif...this thread does suck.

I got motivated to climb after bolting my first route, then I started to setting at the gym and that added to my motivation - other than that, I did a ton of adventure racing this year and that kept me from getting any fatter than the year before.

So I did my route 10d and redpointed a 11b - great for my old crusty-ass but hardly the grade I use to climb. Oh and not being injured has really helped my climbing this year.

I am starting P90X in a few weeks...I hear its the ticket to 5.13!!

[One-Fall]

[quote="der uber"]Ham, so far it's been slow and steady progress. The biggest change I made this year has been where and who I trained with. The training itself hasn't been terribly regimented or disciplined, but I've increased the volume and intensity of the workouts. However, the collective motivation and psyche of training partners have added a lot (thanks guys it's been a lot of fun this year).

If by slow and steady you mean sending two 13b's straight outta the box, then yes, you have had a slow and steady season.

[pigsteak]

Ham, so far it's been slow and steady progress. The biggest change I made this year has been where and who I trained with. The training itself hasn't been terribly regimented or disciplined, but I've increased the volume and intensity of the workouts. However, the collective motivation and psyche of training partners have added a lot (thanks guys it's been a lot of fun this year).

If by slow and steady you mean sending two 13b's straight outta the box, then yes, you have had a slow and steady season.

yeah the level you guys think is suckage makes me weep....

[clif]

Janis Joplin doc anyone?

just love one woman one time...