Sharing my power/strength training plan

[tbwilsonky]

re: training crimps in general. this is an old argument with - as far as i can tell - two common positions. i'm noting them here for interweb redundancy:

1) train how you climb: if you full crimp outside then you should train those hand positions to increase specific strength and prevent heinous injuries come showtime.
2) training should be safe: train open-hand strength inside. because while it doesn't transfer 100% to full crimp strength, it does prevent the oh-so-unfortunate indoor pulley tear.

i choose 1 unless my pulley is torn.

t

[SCIN]

quick question..when you are doing the three finger hangs, do you curl your other finger under or try to straighten it out of the way? neither way feels comfortable.

I curl the other finger. Should feel natural, similar to using a three finger hold outside.

Another question, when you are using holds 3 and 4 on the moon board how much do you train in the full crimp position vs open hand?

Pigsteak, I curl it under.

Chris, I never go to a full crimp on 3 and 4. Half crimp on those and open handed on all of the others.

[512OW]

quick question..when you are doing the three finger hangs, do you curl your other finger under or try to straighten it out of the way? neither way feels comfortable.

I curl the other finger. Should feel natural, similar to using a three finger hold outside.

Another question, when you are using holds 3 and 4 on the moon board how much do you train in the full crimp position vs open hand?

Pigsteak, I curl it under.

Chris, I never go to a full crimp on 3 and 4. Half crimp on those and open handed on all of the others.

I'm the same.

[pigsteak]

I'll show my ignorance..not sure I know what a half crimp is...if you do not put your thumb over top, is that a half crimp? Or is it more the bends in the joints? I just hang on the best I can....

[der uber]

I think half crimping is between open handed and fully closed. So the fingers are bent somewhat but you aren't fully locked down on the hold.

[heavyc]

if the second knuckle (PIP joint) is above the last knuckle (DIP joint) then it would be a full crimp and usually this would cause full extension or hyperextension at the last joint, if it is even with or slightly below then it is a half crimp or all the way down just an open handed grip, at least that is the way I look at it

[pigsteak]

I have a new training plan I'd like to share, and put SCIN to the challenge. man on man, next Saturday, we'll see who the real beast is.
1- Drink 20 oz. Mt. Dew in under 60 seconds
2-Rest 2 minutes with Krispy Creme donuts
3-Drink 40 OZ.Code Red Dew with ONE HAND. (no crimping) no time limit
4- Consume Number three from McD's from breakfast menu before 10:30 AM...
5-Drive to Red.
6-Send your choice of 5.10's

Now, that my friend, is how a real man trains.

[BenjiB]

I may be blind or just dumb, but I don't see anywhere on the moon board where the holds are numbered. I assume the pockets are 1and 2, but I wanted to make sure on the rest.

[JR]

http://usa.moonclimbing.com/fingerboard-c-334_352.html

[pigsteak]

I may be blind or just dumb, but I don't see anywhere on the moon board where the holds are numbered. I assume the pockets are 1and 2, but I wanted to make sure on the rest.

Not dumb Benji, just lazy like me..and I have been told that is not a good combo if planning on using the Moon board.