Bedtime for bonzo

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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Clevis Hitch
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Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:10 pm

Post by Clevis Hitch »

p0bray01 wrote:...but Chester is right
Was this ever in question? :wink:
If you give a man a match, he'll be warm for a minute. If you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life!
jrathfon
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Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 2:39 pm

Post by jrathfon »

krampus wrote:I was joking, I can't think of any rout at the red where you could use 3 #6's, except maybe muscle shoals.
naw you only need two #6's for muscle shoals, the bottom takes 5's. course you could sew it up extra good...
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krampus
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Post by krampus »

yeah two would be enough, I know when I did it with one the second half of the climb was completely unprotected.
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jrathfon
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Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 2:39 pm

Post by jrathfon »

krampus wrote:yeah two would be enough, I know when I did it with one the second half of the climb was completely unprotected.
haha fun! the first time i lead it i had an old 4.5 (basically a new 5) a new 5, a blue big bro, and an old 5 (1" shy of a #6), that old 5 was on tips up the 2nd half of the route! woo!

on topic: if you wanted to sew up p1 you could take a green, 2 reds, a yellow and a blue, maybe a purple at the start. on the 2nd pitch you'll place 2 yellows in the starting dihedral, there are medium sized pieces across the traverse (gray, purprle, green), then you'll want at least one 3 in the finishing hand crack, 2 if you don't like to go more than 4 ft without gear.

but i just took all the fun out of it.
TradMike
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Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 2:57 am

Post by TradMike »

You can start the traverse lower on the second pitch for a much more enjoyable climb. There are nice small cam placements 3/8" to 1/2" in horizontal pockets.
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milspecmark
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Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2009 5:46 pm

Post by milspecmark »

Well, we climbed it Saturday eavning and had a blast. I ended up popping the question to my girfriend and got engaged. Thanks to all of your input on this forum I selected this route to do it on. I posted a pic on the online guide book.

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... ute&id=353

I am glad I did it there, the view was amazing.
Fartspray
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Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:41 pm

Post by Fartspray »

Congratulations, Life is a stage....
"I want to be in Kentucky when the end of the world comes, because it's always 20 years behind" - Mark Twain.
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cliftongifford
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Post by cliftongifford »

nice work man! congratulations!
anticlmber
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Post by anticlmber »

did you sign the summit register??
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milspecmark
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Post by milspecmark »

there was no summit register up there
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