'70s in the Gorge

Post by **krampus** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 8:06 pm

damn it ahab, no more excuses. Let get out there

Post by **the lurkist** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 8:44 pm

That is called adventure.

Post by **L K Day** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 8:44 pm

It might take me a while to dig out some more Gorge photos. In the mean time, here's something for amusement.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1 ... 0547868079

Check out those shorts! Ocean Pacific surf wear was pretty fashionable in '82, but outright hilarious today. Also the swami belt in lieu of a harness. Looks like I was going through a bit of a minimalist phase.

Post by **ynot** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 9:53 pm

Did that big block on DAB always move when you pull on it? Hence the name?
That thing started moving on me and I had 3 college kids sitting on the ledge under me. I thought I was gonna kill us all.

Post by **L K Day** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 11:14 pm

Actually, I'm not responsible for the name because we didn't do the first ascent! When I came home to the Gorge with a mental tick list of potential first ascents this route was high on that list. Me, and Pearsall and a few others did the approach, and when we got to the base, and my companions saw what I had in mind, they said "This one's been done." I believe they said it was a guy named Dante Leonardo, or something like that. Sorry, I can't find my old guide book to check. Anyway, I was hugely disappointed. I'd wanted to try the route years earlier, but I couldn't round up a partner because everyone was so spooked by the intimidating first pitch.

Pearsall and I decided to climb it anyway. It's such a great looking line and really offered beautiful climbing. I think I vaguely remember the block kind of rocking in place, not sure. I was somewhat callous to that stuff back then because, as I'm sure you can imagine, encounters with loose rock were pretty routine on the merely vertical routes of that era. In fact, on the FA of Devine Climb there was a big detached flake, or more accurately a 10 ft high stack of blocks that had once been a flake lying right in the corner on the first pitch. Even today it's obvious where it was. Anyway, there was no way around it other than to climb it. At the time I didn't know crap about jamming, so I laybacked the thing, just like I generally tried to layback almost everything. Although I did try to pull more downward than outward, it slowly swung open like a door on hinges as I moved past. When I got to the ledge at the top of the pitch I pulled the rope, then rapped down and pushed the stack off. It weighed tons! Wish you could have been there.

Post by **L K Day** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 12:28 am

Man, this is fun. I'm diving deep into the way-back machine and digging out slides that I haven't seen for many years. This one is from the FA of Arachnid. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1 ... 0547868079

Last Day: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1 ... 0547868079

Gold Digger: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1 ... 0547868079

Post by **tcu** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 12:41 am

Awesome!

Post by **clif** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 12:51 am

those are quality pictures. good stuff.

Post by **Clevis Hitch** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 3:23 am

I dont think shit about shit and I wanna say thats some shit!!

Post by **pigsteak** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 4:04 am

Larry is throwing the gauntlet....unitl every person climbs everyone of these routes at the Red, don't even dream of calling yourself a real climber. Gotta lead em all this summer folks.

lol...I, for one, am taking up knitting in lieu of being called out as a wuss.