Saxman help me proj Twinkie

[toad857]

gay

[ahab]

i want the real redpoint back. this guy sucks.

[clif]

maybe dhuff and redpoint ran into each other and collapsed the gumby continuum, or is redpoint trolling himself? whatever became of the abandoned skivves?

[KD]

maybe dhuff and redpoint ran into each other and collapsed the gumby continuum, or is redpoint trolling himself? whatever became of the abandoned skivves?

it looks like there's a redpoint with one i and a two id redpoiint- two eyed redpoint n cyclops redpoint or something.

[Jay]

Posted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:48 am Post subject:


Well the reason I am going strait to 12's is because I thought about projecting an overhung 11, but then I realized the only ones I could think of were nothing but crimps, and I would rather climb one of the reds famous jug hauls. Especially with Saxman setting up the toprope.

I'm sure I can handle it.

I climb hard in the gym, one 11 I projected and sent was also projected by a really good climber, and it even took him a few days to get it, and I only ever saw one other person send it(but I'm sure more than a few people had already sent it). As soon as it started it was a really pumpy crimpy boulder problem where you are really leaning this way and that, then you have to make this huge move on a really shallow crimp out to this honeycomb hold. Getting on top of that thing was like pulling a roof since the hold was so big and stuck out so far. Right after you do that is when the route gets really overhung, and the very next move you had to make was on this pig pinch, but at least I eventually found a way so that I didn't have to match on that thing anymore. After that you had to make these huge shouldery boulder moves back to back to back, and the holds just got worse and worse until finally you get to this ridiculous crux. No matter how many times I did that crux I always sucked at it, until one day I invented a new way to do it. Instead of making the reachy move and walking my feet up the bare wall, I walked my feet way up to some foot chips, took a tiny shake rest since my feet were just good enough that I wouldn't barn-door, then I made the reachy move, and if it wasn't for that I would have never got the send. Compared to the 11B I used to climb there, this route felt so much harder, and took so much more endurance that it might as well of been rated 12A. I doubt rating it that wouldn't have been any more ridiculous as the 12A rating on Ro.

tl,dr...

[Redpoint]

Well climbing wise things are going good for me right now(death in the family). I was projecting this 11A in the gym forever, and taking a break from it I managed to almost onsight(I know I know) the 11C next to it, but I missed the finish jug. I ended up getting the C second go. Now most people think the 11A I was projecting should be the C, and that the C should be the A, but then again I know a lot of great climbers who still haven't sent the C, and so maybe it is a C. So they put up this new 11B, and I thought the crux was so ridiculous it would take me 100 tries, but with some great beta I got it on my 4th try.

After all that I went back to my 11A project, and I worked it for 3 days strait for 4 hours a day:

I'm matching on the crimper and I stick the dynamic move to the pinch, which I hate so much. I meticulously toe-in on the shallow edge on the cookie and stick the move to the cheese. My feet peal, I think to myself "well I need to switch feet anyhow" and the adrenaline takes over. Project sent.

I started working this other 11A, and I cranked on these two half-pad incut crimpers in order to do this dynamic move to the finish, and I ended up with a finger injury. It's almost fully healed now, and I'm thinking about canceling that project for a while.

The real bad news is that I haven't been training on endurance lately, there was just too many great new 11's to climb. Rob thinks I'll have to be able to lead climb green in the cave 3 times in a row to be able to send Twinkie, and so I'm going to start working on that. Well I have all winter to train, and so I don't think my goal is a lost cause quite yet.



EDITED



The Real,

Redpoint

p.s. I just got a Casio Exilim EX-FH20 Digital Camera for $300 (yea black friday) from here: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/control ... ifications, and The Gumby Twinkie Experiment( http://thegumbytwinkieexperiment.tripod.com ) will be brought to you in High Definition. I have added my website to my profile, and you can keep track of my progress by clicking my WWW below.

[bcombs]

Redpoint, dude, super bad form to post PM's like that. There are people on here (myself included) that wouldn't have been nearly as tolerant and helpful as Sax was to you. I would have just sent a PM that said shut the fuck up.

[KD]

okay now that's the one eyed redpoint right? i'm confused.

[caribe]

Redpoint: I imagine that the taboo of posting private messages (PM's) to public forums would be obvious to anyone.

[Barnacle Ben]

This is so awesome.