Saxman help me proj Twinkie
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- jordancolburn
- Posts: 366
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2008 2:33 am
I never read his entire post anyway so I had the same experience. The reactions are much better than the real thing. kinda like 2girls1cupjordancolburn wrote:Is it sad that it took me over halfway through the topic to realize it wasn't actually redpoint?
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
- jordancolburn
- Posts: 366
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2008 2:33 am
I read a whole lot, and allot of people say I read too much in to climbing, but I like to learn as much as I can to be as safe as possible. A lot of things I have read, allot of climbers don't seem to know, or at least care about. Here is one now; allot of people think the purpose of a double over hand knot is only to take up the slack, and so if there is no slack they don't tie one. Well I found out from Onrope1(a book written by thee master of ropework. http://www.onrope1.com/ ) that the double overhand knot plays a couple other roles. One is to make sure that there is allot of extra rope coming out of the tail end of your double figure eight, which prevents the chances of it from ever slipping through. Another is that it makes your double figure eight a more reliable knot in the way that the double overhand knot acts as a stopper knot making sure the rope tail can't slip through your double figure eight. The closer your double overhand knot is to your double figure eight knot, the more reliable it will be. I learned how to achieve this with 100% success every time now; instead of pulling the double over hand knot away from you, pull the tail end of the rope and pull the double overhand knot right up next to the double figure eight and keep pulling hard on the tale untill the knot is tight and secure.
That way if you fall on twinkie or on some really awesomely expert boulder problem you will live unless you hit the ground then you migh live if you are lucky unless you think it is good luck not to live in which case it would be bad.
That way if you fall on twinkie or on some really awesomely expert boulder problem you will live unless you hit the ground then you migh live if you are lucky unless you think it is good luck not to live in which case it would be bad.