Finger Pain Time Again

Post by **whatahutch** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:26 pm

Time has come to start training for the fall (for October) and my fingers are hurting again. I have been working on my endurance on a treadwall and my power on my bouldering wall.
My second knuckle up from the tip of my middle finger is killing me on both hands, worse on the left though. The joint feels loose and I can wiggle it around (it isn't tight inside the joint). I x-tape but this still occurred.
This is a reoccurring injury I get that I am tired of. It is either my joint or the ligaments that support it. (This is not a tendon problem, repeat this is not a tendon problem).

Has anyone else had this pain/problem? What did you do to get over it? Does anyone think glucosamine chondriton would work?

Post by **whatahutch** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:28 pm

I have taken weeks off before to recuperate but do not have the time to do that this year because my wife will be having our first son in a month and I want to maintain (not build) after that point. (A serious training program should last 9 weeks at the least so waiting to train would be pointless because your/my body would not have the appropriate time to reach it's peak performance for that training session and October would be here by then).

Post by **krampus** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:45 pm

I have the same problem with my left middle finger, I think I overworked the hang board. I haven't found a solution yet but I have found that with a decent warm up, it does not hurt so bad on a redpoint attempt

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:59 pm

Quit crimping so much. Use open handed holds and grab crimps open handed. You'll be surprised how little your joints will hurt if you just stop crimping.

Post by **gripster** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 5:12 pm

Yeah what SCIN said. Avoid cranking really hard off of crimpers and avoid campus boards. Also I wouldn't waste my money on glucosamine chondriton (unless you really believe it is going to work, then you might get a placebo effect). I am sure you are not training every day, but if you are then stop. And I knew a guy (I haven't seen him in years) that had a very strict hand stretching exercise he went through every time he climbed that an orthopedic doctor had showed him. It would take him almost 20 minutes, but after he started it his finger issues went away. So maybe see a doctor? A joint that feels "loose" sounds bad to me, and you might be heading down a path that is going to permanently damage the joint and then you will never be able to climb the same again (if at all).

Post by **krampus** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:05 pm

I wonder what redpoint has to say on the matter?

Post by **toddc** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:41 pm

I'm having a similar problem. I have osteoarthritis in my ring finger on one hand. I've tried glucosomine chondriton for 3 months now and it hasn't helped. Ibuprofen works very well, but I'm afraid to use it all the time. I've been cycling on and off for a few weeks now and it seems to be under control. Has anyone tried the ibuprofen cream? I was thinking that might be safer if it works. One thing that I've found that helps a lot is warming up really well before climbing including stretching and icing my finger after every workout. I aslo started using contrast baths for my hands and that seems to help.

Post by **gripster** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:56 pm

Ibuprofen is a much more lipophillic drug than most NSAIDS and will readily absorb through skin and fat layers when it is combined with some carrier solvent like is found in the creams. So yes the cream should work fine, and toddc almost makes a good point that taking NSAIDS is a very good thing if your injury is causing any kind of swelling even if it seems minor. Reducing the swelling can greatly increase the recovery time. However, if you are concerned about the negative effects of Ibuprofen then the cream is really no better since your body still absorbs the drug and it must eventually be metabolized and eliminated by your kidneys and liver. Aspirin is by far the safest NSAID for most people, but Ibuprofen and Acetominaphen both work better. Stay away from naproxen (active ingredient in aleve) if possible. It has the more risky side effect of heart murmurs in smaller amounts. Ibuprofen and Acetaminophen both are relatively harmless as long as you don't take more than the recommended daily dose, well at least not often, and you don't drink a lot or do anything else that stresses your liver and kidneys.

Post by **whatahutch** » Fri Aug 14, 2009 2:01 pm

I was told by and athletic trainer not to ice the fingers because there is not enough tissue in them and you could be causing more problems because the cold could damage what tissue there is. He said to cool it in cold water if you really think you need it. He specifically recommended taping though. And nsaids.

Post by **Barnacle Ben** » Fri Aug 14, 2009 2:33 pm

That's pretty similar to what Dave MacLeod said in the cold therapy video on his website. Basically, the only time you want to use ice (as opposed to cold) is immediately after trauma, to reduce swelling.

Also, not sure if this is what gripster was saying, but acetaminophen is not an NSAID. There was an article in the last Rock and Ice pointing out the differences. I think the gist of it was that NSAIDs are preferable over mere analgesics like Tylenol.

I take aleve if necessary, but I try to minimize how much I take.