best 5.7 sport route for some one new to leading

[Jay]

Rhunt, I have in fact seen a rope pop free from a back-clipped draw, in a real-life (albeit in a gym) lead climbing situation.

Question, was the wall dead vert, slab or overhanging?

Ok one so far, any one else?

Dead vertical, fairly high up, so he didn't get hurt, but he took a hell of a ride- It was at Upper Limits in Bloomington, IL, in one of the silos.

BTW, how in any way would this differ from climbing on a dead vertical outdoor route, i.e., the ledge routes at Emerald City?

[krampus]

I would gladly do the experiments with someone and to make it interesting I will place money that my predictions are correct. (if your serious, there are many side bets on particulars to be made too )

I'm definitely in on this one. Can we increase the wager based on which bolt is to be back clipped? Like 30 on the 1st, 20 on the 2nd, 10 on the 3rd, etc... The wager gets smaller as the likelihood of a broken ankle is lessened.

I was thinking of dropping pumpkins or sandbags, but I think I like your idea better, I'm in for 30.

[ahab]

for 5 - 1 odds, i'll be the drop dummy.
we can do slab to vert to overhang
bring on the back clips. bitches.

[Cleveland]

for 5 - 1 odds, i'll be the drop dummy.
we can do slab to vert to overhang
bring on the back clips. bitches.

"I like you maaan but you're crazy"

You are a crazy mother fucker ahab I hope you have good insurance.

[Brentucky]

yes he does need insurance cause no one else will climb with me. even if he's hurt he can be my belay bitch.

for 5-1 odds you're doing it at the crux son! the climb is "you take sally." you know where the final crux is way up there. you send you win, you fall you owe me money regardless how far, bitch! better yet, just skip it, i'm sure you'll be fine!

[Redpoint]

Placing the draws in the "right" position is good but definitely not necessary...
and
Equipment made from steel should surely be replaced after dropped, or equipment made from cast aluminum, like old jumars. Hairline fractures in new forged aluminum from dropping is a myth. If your aluminum biner cracks, you can see it with the naked eye.

Do you know if the petzl ascender is made out of forged aluminum?

I dropped one mine down a 50 foot pit and now it has some dings in it, and now I am always paranoid it might have a fracture in it. In vertical caving you are always on two ascenders anyhow, but I was still thinking about replacing it, but hopefully you can give me some insight on whether it would be pointless or not. One of the dings is right where you clip a biner in it too, and I wonder if that means I should replace it. Well besides the dings I can't see any cracks or fractures, but I'm not sure if it should if it might still have a fracture anyways.

Also: Are all black diamond caribiners made from cold/hot forged aluminum these days?
I know the Oz is hot forged, and I think the rest of their line is cold forged, but I'm not sure.

[Redpoint]

Mammut recommends retiring it after 52 days worth of sport climbing on it,

53 days sport climbing = a bad rope. now THAT'S funny stuff.

They didn't say that exactly, I had to search all over for the book just now, but here is what they said:


"The following table gives reference values for the usability of the rope:

-Frequency of Use- -Approximate Life Span-
Never used 10 years
Rarely 7 years
Occasionally(once a month) 5 years
Regularly(several time a month) 3 years
Frequently(each week) 1 years
Constantly(almost daily) less than one year"

Wow I messed up the math too, well I just estimated anyhow, I can't believe I didn't just do 12X4 lol, and I figured if used once a week and if there is 48 weeks in a year, than you could just say 48 days worth of sport climbing.


Here is some more of what they said:

"Even some ancient ropes can still hold a <short> sport climbing fall, whilst in comparison, a brand new rope can break over a sharp edge. Therefore, the lifespan of a rope is difficult to define. It depends on the type and length of use, on shock loading and other influences that weaken a rope, in the end, with the private user, it's a personal safety decision. At the latest, if you no longer have confidence in your old, furry, unmanageable rope you should <down> it to top roping only. For commercial users keeping a --> rope log is recommended

Independant of frequency of use, a rope should be disposed of if:
1. The rope came in contact with chemicals, particularly acids.
2. The sheath is damaged and the core is visible.
3. The sheath is extremely worn, or particularly fuzzy.
4. The sheath has slipped noticeably.
5. Strong deformations are present (stiffness, nicks, sponginess).
6. The rope was subjected to extreme loads(e.g. heavy falls, clearly over fall factor 1).
7. The rope is extremely dirty(grease, oil, tar).
8. Heat, abrasion, or friction burns have caused damage."


So to conclude, it's not about an exact number of days used, hence why they said "Approximate Life Span", and it's really user discretion. Gosh I wish someone could help me get off of this forearm crank.

[Brentucky]

in other times you might have gotten your fingers chopped, but these days it seems anything goes (except common sense)

[bcombs]

...I figured if used once a week and if there is 48 weeks in a year, than you could just say 48 days worth of sport climbing.

You are the man, Redpoint.

[Josephine]

...I figured if used once a week and if there is 48 weeks in a year, than you could just say 48 days worth of sport climbing.

You are the man, Redpoint.