Statistics about the *** Ratings

[bjdm151]

As far as the star ratings the only one that has ever pissed me off was Lord of the Flies at Phantasia. I was out there with my brother and we got on it to warm up and the flies seriously picked us up and carried us away. Two stars is two stars too much.

[caribe]

There is the BIG turd in the punch bowl

and its Hugh's.

[Lander]

Me and lurkist have talked about soft grades more than once. While I share his concern to a degree, I think there is an antidote and that's going back to the old benchmarks.

To me the benchmark sport climbs will always be the old classic Porter routes or others from that era, the ones with four and five stars. After all, they set the standard while introducing sport climbing to the Red and have probably seen more ascents than most others and if they were deserving down rating it probably would have happened long ago. IMO, they should be more sustained, not one move wonders. Also, not less than vert/slabby. That might need a different list.

Looking through the guide, these climbs are good to compare with newer routes.

AWOL =10a
Creepshow, Pulling Pockets =10d
Bandolier =11a
King Me =11b
BBBB, Centerfire =11c
Infidel,Return of Chris Snyder,Government Cheese, Jac Mac (closed ),Ro Shampo =11d
Twinkie,Bare Metal,Chainsaw,Too Many Puppies =12a
Tissue Tiger,Mercy =12b

[Andrew]

good list, what about higher grades.

Orange Juice 12c
8 ball 12d
Bundle of Joy 13a
table direct 13b
white mans 13c
true love 13d
transworld 14a
thanatopsis 14b
lucifer 14c

I really have no clue what I am talking about.
Did anyone catch my subtle spray?

[pigsteak]

you mean subtle wish list?

work on sending lander's list first, and get back to us....

and lucifer isn't a move harder than 14b...pffffft

[JR]

Sweet list Andrew!

A bunch of routes you can't do and one route only you can do.

[JR]

All routes should be graded according to Sky Bridge Ridge????

I personally love SBR and FRC but those crags house mostly long vert routes. Why would you use them as the standard for the Red? Come to think of it. There are a handful of soft routes at those crags also. Whats right of the Underling, Frugal Chariot and Go Easy Billy Clyde, these routes seemed much easier than the oft argued Ro. I am not saying they are soft enough to be changed, they are just easier 12a's that should not be used as a standard.

[512OW]

All route should be grade according to Sky Bridge Ridge????

I personally love SBR and FRC but those crags house mostly long vert routes. Why would you use them as the standard for the Red? Come to think of it. There are a handful of soft routes at those crags also. Whats right of the Underling, Frugal Chariot and Go Easy Billy Clyde, these routes seemed much easier than the oft argued Ro. I am not saying they are soft enough to be changed, they are just easier 12a's that should not be used as a standard.

True dat.

[SCIN]

good list, what about higher grades.

Orange Juice 12c
8 ball 12d
Bundle of Joy 13a
table direct 13b
white mans 13c
true love 13d
transworld 14a
thanatopsis 14b
lucifer 14c

I really have no clue what I am talking about.
Did anyone catch my subtle spray?

Orange Juice - 5.9 to one move
8 Ball - I'll give you that
BOJ - 12c on big edges to a long lockoff move to a decent slot from huge holds after a huge jug rest (5.12c for tall people)
Table Direct - Cut Throat is harder. Why not use it?
White Man's - Another GMC Wall route?

We can tell you have no clue what you're talking about. These benchmark route ideas could go on for years with differing opinions.

[JR]

Just to clarify. Would a benchmark route be exactly in the middle of the grade(everything similar would be that grade) or would it be at the very top of the grade(anything harder would be the next grade)??