Closing Routes (once again)
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You ask for a serious comment- I will try to oblige-
like Meadows said- the community norm is that the person who put the work in deserves deference. That is, the community should defer until the person who had the inspiration and perspiration has the opportunity to close the deal with his/her project.
I get the sense that you are a respectful person and understand this.
That said, I agree with you that just as the community defers to the projector/equipper, the equipper should have a modicum of humility and in a gesture of mutual respect to the community acknowledge their deference and "give" the route up to the community when it becomes clear that they can't do it/ can't summons the gumption to train up for it, etc...
It is what the community has decided upon as a norm. People have cravenly transgressed it in the past and reap their reward- public scorn and ridicule.
like Meadows said- the community norm is that the person who put the work in deserves deference. That is, the community should defer until the person who had the inspiration and perspiration has the opportunity to close the deal with his/her project.
I get the sense that you are a respectful person and understand this.
That said, I agree with you that just as the community defers to the projector/equipper, the equipper should have a modicum of humility and in a gesture of mutual respect to the community acknowledge their deference and "give" the route up to the community when it becomes clear that they can't do it/ can't summons the gumption to train up for it, etc...
It is what the community has decided upon as a norm. People have cravenly transgressed it in the past and reap their reward- public scorn and ridicule.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Normie
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I have a question for the poster. When you use the term "public crag" do you mean publicly owned or open to the public? Because our only publicly owned crags are on Forest Service land. Currently, there is no bolting being approved by the Forest Service. Thus no issue.
Also, for privately owned crags that are open to the public, in addition to the community norm, there is the aspect of getting permission from the landowner to bolt.
Also, for privately owned crags that are open to the public, in addition to the community norm, there is the aspect of getting permission from the landowner to bolt.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
Here is my two cents:
1) In my two years of climbing at the red my process for determining where to climb involves eliminating crags from a long list of those I would like to climb at. Unless you are like Mr. Guidebook (thanks again btw for my climbing bible) and have spent years trying to climb EVERYTHING, I don't feel like you would have a problem finding something new to get on.
2)As one of the 99% of climbers out there who have never touched a drill, I am super greatful to those relatively few people who choose to spend their time and money bolting new climbs for me when they could be out sending stuff like everyone else. That being the case, they can do whatever they like...just give me a heads up when its cool for me to get on it.
1) In my two years of climbing at the red my process for determining where to climb involves eliminating crags from a long list of those I would like to climb at. Unless you are like Mr. Guidebook (thanks again btw for my climbing bible) and have spent years trying to climb EVERYTHING, I don't feel like you would have a problem finding something new to get on.
2)As one of the 99% of climbers out there who have never touched a drill, I am super greatful to those relatively few people who choose to spend their time and money bolting new climbs for me when they could be out sending stuff like everyone else. That being the case, they can do whatever they like...just give me a heads up when its cool for me to get on it.
This coca-cola tastes like herpes.