recovery training

Post by **der uber** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 2:40 pm

Can you give some examples, suggestions? I've heard a lot of references to it, and I did a search on the forum, but didn't really get a good example. Thanks in advance.

Post by **toad857** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 3:00 pm

sit on the couch and read a book

can't train your way out of an injury

Post by **der uber** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 3:17 pm

Not that kind of recovery, the "ability to recover on holds" type of recovery. I'm a pro a sitting on the couch.

Post by **rhunt** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 4:37 pm

You can't really train for reovery, just climb a lot and you'll develop recovery endurance. But you can use some tricks like, relax grip, breathe, use skin/calluses of fingers to grip rock and shake out. Use various body positions to take weight off arms. Find tricks like heel hooks, knee bars, arms bars, heads bars, etc to take weight off arms to shake out

Post by **Shamis** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 5:13 pm

I think aerobic conditioning does as much for this as anything else, which explains why I can't recover.

Post by **Meadows** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 5:39 pm

Learn to calm down. Most people are stronger than they think they are but their head gets in the way and they overgrip.

Post by **SCIN** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 5:52 pm

I train for recovery by setting very long problems with a jug just before the start of another long problem. Try to do the long problem (which you should approach failure on near the end) then attempt to recover on the jug before launching into the next long problem. For even more fun add a jug at the end of the 2nd problem near the start of the first and try to do it again without coming off the wall.

Post by **kirker** » Wed Apr 01, 2009 5:58 pm

Meadows wrote:Learn to calm down. Most people are stronger than they think they are but their head gets in the way and they overgrip.

So true

Post by **der uber** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 1:06 am

Thanks to all for the input. I certainly look for creative resting positions, and don't have a problem utilizing them. SCIN's description sounds like a good drill to try.

Post by **toad857** » Thu Apr 02, 2009 1:16 am

when climbing in a gym, don't immediately drop off of a route or problem when you send it. spend a few seconds on the last hold (usually a jug) and let your breathing come back. this will mentally condition you to get into that relaxed state when you find a rest jug on a pumpy route. the most important thing is to breathe, i think... it will calm you down a lot