Ohh this is going to be fun.

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?

Would you buy unrecognized, non brand name traditional climbing gear

No qestions asked!
5
12%
I'm just getting into trad and cant afford real gear!
1
2%
O hell no!
34
79%
Whats a cam!
3
7%
 
Total votes: 43

L K Day
Posts: 827
Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2004 6:29 am

Post by L K Day »

Some of the things I've seen from "brand name" manufacturers over the years.

SLCs that could too easily lose their cams off the ends of the axels.

Force limiting draws that caused caribiner failure.

Locking carabiners that would become locked in a gate open position after having been carefully locked shut.

Carabiners prone to cross-loading and ripping the sheath of the rope.

Disasterously incorrect buckle lacing instructions sewn on new harnesses.

Ice screws with threads that were essentially a spring that was spot welded onto a smooth tube. The "threads" could strip right off of the tube under severe load.

Ice axes that failed catastrophically in use (picks snapped).

Stainless steel versions of "brassies" that were so damned hard that that the rock couldn't bite into them. They lifted out under rope drag far easier than any other nuts on the market at the time.

A mis-marked drill bit larger than indicated size.

All this from name brand manufacturers that were trying to do a good job. Still, some of my most cherished pieces were Eastern Block titanium ice screws (no two exactly the same) that were each, essentially, one-off prototypes. Though I would imagine things are at least somewhat better today, when it comes to climbing equipment, it's best to assume a buyer-beware attitude.
Last edited by L K Day on Wed Feb 18, 2009 4:20 am, edited 2 times in total.
Yasmeen
Posts: 4663
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 10:42 am

Post by Yasmeen »

Andrew wrote:hahahahahaha, I love this site. I miss Mike Jones, he was good with a computer, and sometimes a mic.
He performs every Tuesday and Thursday at RockQuest - you should buy tickets some night.
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
---
(Emails > PMs)
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ahab
Posts: 1024
Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2007 5:36 pm

Post by ahab »

they may look cheesy, but i hear their spokesman insists that their QC policies are 2nd to none.

Image
Image
buy the Ticket take the Ride
Jay
Posts: 498
Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 1:17 pm

Post by Jay »

Image

In Soviet Russia, nut tool cleans you!!!
"Always carry a large flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite and furthermore always carry a small snake." -W.C. Fields
ditzywonder
Posts: 244
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 8:31 pm

Post by ditzywonder »

your right jay. I did laugh :) I kinda miss mike. We should go kidnap him and climb a rock.
black diamonds are a girls best friend
shrug7
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 6:09 pm

Post by shrug7 »

:shock: ... 8)

heh :mrgreen:


The Gear4Rock crampons look amusing...
B.J.
Posts: 84
Joined: Tue Jun 27, 2006 2:34 pm

Post by B.J. »

Image

One of these things is not like the others,
One of these things just doesn't belong.
User avatar
DriskellHR
Posts: 1260
Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 11:34 pm

Post by DriskellHR »

Image

I bought these at JT a few years ago, no tag name or insignia.... they look solid but I have never taken a fall on them so who knows??
"....... Be sure to linger......." Mike Tucker
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