Recommendations for 5.11a-b

Post by **petey** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:03 pm

Hello,

I mostly lurk normally but wanted to ask a question. I'm solid on 10.d and looking to get into 11a-b. Can anyone recommend good climbs at this level (anything but slab). I've gotten on toker, fuzzy and air ride equipped.

thanks much and have glorious days.

Pete

Post by **TradMike** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:13 pm

BBBB is the best 11 in the gorge. It's listed as 5.11c though.

Post by **anticlmber** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:17 pm

psyberpunk - solid and super fun
twisted
trad sucker
eye of the needle
count floyd show
up yonder - pump, pump, pump
yellow brick road
ruby slippers, lollipop kids, and no place like home
amarillo sunset
skunk love
special boy/believer
any of the 11s at torrent

just a few of the gooder ones out there

Post by **Andrew** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:18 pm

Bathtub Mary

Post by **anticlmber** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:21 pm

Andrew wrote:Bathtub Mary

sucks

also check out
another doug reed route
edge a sketch
momma cindy
touch of grey - soft but good
areterection
scumbugalizer ??

Post by **petey** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:31 pm

Thanks a lot yall-are any of these at crags that are off the path a bit? I'll be down this weekend

oh and what is bbbb- are you talkinga bout beene bros best?

Post by **rjackson** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:46 pm

My favorites for the grades...

Whipstocking at Drive By, 11a
Super Dario at Eastern Sky Bridge, 11a
Bandolier at Torrent (if you go to the meeting Saturday, or stay in one of the cabins), 11a
Green Horn at Solar Collector, 11a

Count Floyd Show at Phantasia, 11b
Up Yonder (the first set of chains) at Roadside, 11b

Post by **pkananen** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:48 pm

petey wrote:Thanks a lot yall-are any of these at crags that are off the path a bit?

Search: http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide

Post by **Andrew** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 3:00 pm

Definitely Whipstocking.

Post by **Lander** » Thu Jun 26, 2008 3:21 pm

Whipstocking is a great one to break into the 11 grade. No hard moves. It's pumpy but there are like three no hand rests if you don't have the fitness to climb it straight through.

Fuzzy Undercling is another great one. Bouldery start then it's over after you clip the second. Just make big moves the rest of the way.

petey wrote:oh and what is bbbb- are you talkinga bout beene bros best?

BBBB. Bozos Bogus Booty Biner. A Military Wall classic but probably not the first 11 to try. It's about 11c.