Rhapsody is an eliminate route????? WTF???

Post by **charlie** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 1:40 pm

How many of you have ever seen the rock this thing is on? I'm not really sure I am comfortable making a judgment on the line or the climbing of said line seeing as how I have no clue what it looks like IRL.

Armchair quarterbacks.

Post by **anticlmber** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 1:41 pm

you gonna hike that ball or just keep your hands in my crotch all day??

armchair center

Post by **512OW** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 11:11 pm

charlie wrote:How many of you have ever seen the rock this thing is on? I'm not really sure I am comfortable making a judgment on the line or the climbing of said line seeing as how I have no clue what it looks like IRL.

Armchair quarterbacks.

Only in photos, which seem to tell the story. Not to mention that Trotter says he could reach the arete from the crux, and that James Pearson and John Dunne, 2 of the strongest grit climbers around, lost interest upon seeing it because of its "contrived nature".

Seems everybody but McLeod calls it an eliminate.

Post by **512OW** » Fri Jun 13, 2008 11:12 pm

jlutotherescue wrote:he gets the 14c grade because he climbed it first without the arete!

what happens when you climb a 14a and a hold breaks? the grade might jump up to 14b. that doesnt mean you climbed a 14b...

this situation is the opposite, he climbed a 14c, and someone found a hold, ie the arete, therefore the grade dropped to a 14a

now that i wrote this i do see what you are saying, but its not like trotter found a jug...hes using a huge natural feature that runs up close to the route so i feel like its different

Huh?

He knew the hold was there. He established the "don't bail to the arete" rule. Doing it as a 14c is training. The route is 14a.

Post by **der uber** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 12:50 am

Sounds like they just need ot tape off the arete, like they do in comps.

Post by **Jay** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 4:20 am

This isn't anywhere near the first time something like this has happened. The Thimble, John Gill's testpiece boulder problem in the Needles, is actually kind of the same thing. There's a water groove/arete that you could bail into just to the left of the problem itself, but nobody called foul then when Gill climbed it (without the arete). Of course, Gill didn't even bother to report the send to 8a.nu after he sent, so maybe the ascent wasn't even valid.

Post by **512OW** » Sat Jun 14, 2008 7:41 am

You're right, and Gill was bouldering. Thats just practice.

I've always been of the belief that the reason the Thimble wasn't repeated by tons of people is that nobody knew where the hell it really went.

I'm not even sure of its real significance.

Post by **ahab** » Mon Jun 16, 2008 3:30 pm

jlutotherescue wrote:he gets the 14c grade because he climbed it first without the arete!

so, if i suck at reading a line and end up making it 2 letter grades harder than it has to be, do i get credit for the harder grade, or what the line actually climbs at?

as far as "eliminates" go, hey, if these guys climb so fucking hard that they have to call off holds just to get their rocks off, more power to em. me? when i get off a contrived line i get a dirty feeling inside that doesn't wash off with soap.

Post by **ecp88** » Tue Jun 17, 2008 3:38 pm

What's an eliminate route? Google doesn't tell me.

Post by **Andrew** » Tue Jun 17, 2008 3:45 pm

Steve McClure just sent it.