Roadside Gear

Post by **krampus** » Tue May 13, 2008 1:37 pm

for $500 I will take you to roadside and let you lead RA with my gear. I am not certified, and by accepting my offer, you are forfitting any and all liability that I may be believed to have. For an extra hundred, I will give you beta and tell you which pieces to use (hint: both quick draws go in the anchors)

Post by **Mrs.climbeRPh** » Tue May 13, 2008 1:49 pm

While you are on the subject of Roadside....about that finish.......what do you do? The right side only has nubbins to hold, the near left has a really wide section that is hard to get into, and I forget the rest. Do you do a layback? Or do you climb the nubs, or do you pull up (on what) to get into the offwidth using your head as a cam?

Post by **krampus** » Tue May 13, 2008 2:17 pm

its a downward facing head cam, then torque your body to the left so that you can grab the GIANT ledge with your upside down toes. At this point you do a backflip, and your done.

Post by **Mrs.climbeRPh** » Tue May 13, 2008 2:32 pm

I knew it was easy and I just missed it.
By the way, I have seen the GIANT ledge, I just can't reach it, unless I backflip, of course.....what was I thinking!

Post by **krampus** » Tue May 13, 2008 2:50 pm

The truth is, its a lot closer than it looks, just go for it anyway you can.

Post by **512OW** » Tue May 13, 2008 11:14 pm

whatahutch wrote:Just go with someone experienced. Period. And not just for a day with a guide and then think you can lead trad. You need a bunch of time with an experienced trad climber, espesually more than a day or weekend.

Roadside (the second half) was my first trad lead. Actually, it was the first time I'd ever touched trad gear.

SCIN said he'd lead the first part so I could see how gear worked. He soloed it. He was mostly drunk, of course. After I arrive at the belay, SCIN hands me the rack.

"What do I do with these?", I ask.

"If they don't fall out, they're fine."

"Ok."

Sent.

Frankly, rockclimbing is about adventure. Read John Longs "How to Rockclimb" and go do it. If you would like a guided trip, use RRO. He's a great guy and will teach you tons. If not, just go do it. You'll be fine.

Post by **512OW** » Tue May 13, 2008 11:17 pm

Mrs.climbeRPh wrote:While you are on the subject of Roadside....about that finish.......what do you do? The right side only has nubbins to hold, the near left has a really wide section that is hard to get into, and I forget the rest. Do you do a layback? Or do you climb the nubs, or do you pull up (on what) to get into the offwidth using your head as a cam?

Layback the wide. Left leg into the chimney. Mantle into it. Easy. There are big feet on the right wall. There is also a handhold on the right wall to make the move to the ledge from the chimney.

I remember because that was the sight of many a nights freesolo... and you have to switch the beer bottles to the right side of your body so as not to break them in the chimney.

Post by **Kige** » Wed May 14, 2008 9:03 am

thanks for your suggestions and concerns. i was hoping to get by with mostly passive pro but it looks like i will have to pony up and get some cams.

i have been climbing for about 8 years and climb in the 5.11 range so i feel very comfortable and confident leading a 5.7 trad. a buddy of mine in high school had a trad rack and we did roadside a couple of times, bedtime for bonzo, five finger discount, and many other trad climbs (those were just my favorites). i even lead quit a bit, so i am familar with placement. he lives in colorado now, so no borrowing his gear, and he couldn't remember what pieces we used.

i plan on expanding the rack i just wanted a place to start. thanks.

Post by **ahab** » Wed May 14, 2008 9:14 am

if you've been climbin' 8 years, i'd go with the naked, drunken, midnight free solo method. that way, you'll save money on gear. i would take dubya's advice and wear a harness tho. do you know how to rack beer bottles?

Post by **kess** » Wed May 21, 2008 12:09 am

neuroshock wrote:
A friend of mine led it for her first time (had TR'd before) recently and while she's not that comfy with running things out, nor is totally comfortable at that grade she took up 2 #.75 Camalots, 2 #1 Camalots, 3 #2 Camalots, 1 #3 Camalot, 1 #11 Hex, and runners and she did just fine (and had a piece leftover, too). That was a week after returning from Indian Creek where she refined her jamming, however.

Thanks for ratting me out, Mike.

Actually I took up 2 #.75 Camalot, 2 #1 Camalots, 5 #2 Camalots, 1 #3 Camalot, a #10 Hex, and a #11 Hex.

I had lots of pieces left over I will have you know....I placed 2 #2's, 1 #3, 1 #1 and both Hexes, plus a couple of slings. You do the math. I wouldn't call what I did "sewing it up", nor did I have to turn it into 2 pitches like someone I know (ahem, Mike).