WOOHOO

Post by **overhung** » Thu Jun 26, 2003 2:03 pm

Second that. Bombs Bursting is not a newbie route in my opinion. Party Time is pretty moderate with good stances for placing gear.

Post by **Don McGlone** » Thu Jun 26, 2003 2:26 pm

Point taken. Bombs Bursting would not be a good route to learn trad on lead, but it would be a good route to clean to see and learn placements. I was thinking of routes that would be mostly passive. I think Party Time would be a lot more of a technical route to lead passive than Bombs Bursting, especially the wide start. Maybe several big hexes would work. Where have you been, Overhung?

Post by **overhung** » Thu Jun 26, 2003 3:06 pm

Layin' low brother. Waiting for the rest of my cams to come in. Party Time is scary at the bottom, especially the chossy stuff.

Post by **loren** » Thu Jun 26, 2003 7:15 pm

Father and Son is super casual and can be well protected with only nuts. I think it's maybe 5.7.

I thought you were going to be out here in CO?

Post by **captain static** » Thu Jun 26, 2003 9:16 pm

On a recent trip I used both Father and Son and Casual Viewing to help a couple of sport buddies learn some trad. Since both climbs have anchors you can mock lead them. I have also used Environmental Impact, another 5.7, for mock leading.

Post by **tomdarch** » Thu Jun 26, 2003 11:10 pm

hamsco wrote:spring for some Lowe tri-cams next. The Pink (.5) and the red (1) are great for the Red

The pink tri-cam works really well just about everywhere! (Yosemite, Red Rocks, NV, J-Tree, etc.) They won't let you lead at the Gunks without at least one on your rack!

Just be careful, the Gunks are full of 'fixed' pink tricams.

The pink tri-cam - don't leave the ground without it.

Back to your point - I remember Five Finger Discount at Roadside working well with nuts, but the traverse over to the anchors is a pain.

Post by **Jeff** » Thu Jun 26, 2003 11:56 pm

"but the traverse over to the anchors is a pain."

But it is an easy traverse.

Post by **tomdarch** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 5:54 pm

Jeff wrote:"but the traverse over to the anchors is a pain."

But it is an easy traverse.

Oh! Wait a minute! It's been a few years since I did Five Finger Discount. At that time you had to traverse 25' or so to get to the anchors for Jump for Joy. It was easy, but annoying (especially for a sport-->trad climber - "the anchors should be at the top of the climb!") I forgot that there is/are new sport climbs between FFD and JfJ - maybe the traverse is a lot shorter now?

Post by **Jeff** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 7:36 pm

The anchors are still 25' to the right, but I don't believe they are the Jump for Joy anchors. Seems to me the anchors for JFJ are lower. It's been awhile since I've been on JFJ though.
By easy, I just mean that it is easy terrain to cover. I placed one piece(cam) only on account of the person following.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Jun 27, 2003 8:08 pm

the start on Jump for Joy skeered me