What happens?

[SCIN]

I've been working this route. A few weeks ago I was able to do it from the second bolt to the top without falling. There's a tough move at the second bolt. Since then I've done nothing different as far as training or climbing. If anything I've been climbing more and training more.

Well, anyway, this weekend I got on it again and was able to do the hard move at the second bolt but when I tried to run it again from the second bolt to the top I got too pumped. I even had to grab a draw to clip it. I had more power but my endurance disappeared.

I'm just wondering what your opinion is of what goes on with the body for things like this to happen. I had plenty of endurance 3 weeks ago to do the route from the second bolt. I've been climbing a ton. Training like mad. Three weeks later I can't even get to the top without getting pumped out of my mind. I'm very habitual as far as eating habits, sleeping habits, etc. so it's not like I changed my diet or drank too much. I just don't get it.

[Stewy911]

eat more gummy worms.....they give you send power!

[Saxman]

Overtraining, stress, mild infection, loss of psychological drive, phase of the moon, etc.

[SCIN]

I don't see how any of those would have an effect on something so specific such as an overpumped forearm on a short power route.

[charlie]

You're old man, accept it and start drinking harder.

[Meadows]

Are you drinking enough water? It's that time of year when we tend to forget about hydration.

Sax's idea of a mild infection could also be the key. Your body is prioritizing that for now.

[Steve]

The harder you train and more you climb, the more you need to rest? So get more sleep, or just laying off training and climbing?

What are you doing on your 'rest' days? Are you not climbing, but digging ditches remodling houses, running marathons? Sure that is rest from climbing but not restful activity. Welcome to the world of being an elite athlete SCIN. Rest is as important, if not more so, than actually doing the activity of which you are a pro. You've got to quit your job, hire a maid and train, rest, and climb fulltime. Its big time now.

[Meadows]

I don't see how any of those would have an effect on something so specific such as an overpumped forearm on a short power route.

From what I remember in my micro-bio class, if you're fighting an infection, your body will "hide" iron because viruses/bac feed on it.

http://pt.chemicalstore.com/Fe%20-%20Iron.html

[Andrew]

SCIN a couple holds broke on c sharp B flat, so maybe you aren't out of shape, its just harder now.

My suggestion is too skip all of the clips to make it easier. Also try stick clipping up to the fourth bolt to save energy. Also if you hang really long draws from the anchors you might be able to clip them before the crux. Buy a lot of webbing.

Follow these suggestions.

[captain static]

I've been climbing a ton. Training like mad. Three weeks later I can't even get to the top without getting pumped out of my mind.

It sounds like you might be over training? You might need to take a break from training. It's tricky to get your power and endurance peaks to coincide. Do you do interval training for climbing?

Then again, it could be too much lechithin?