I decided today I'd get over my little fear of leading. Usually I have zemkat my ropegun lead first, then I clean, and we switch. If I'm still pissing my pants after my first top-rope, i'll lower and do another lap until I feel comfortable leading it. Yes, I realize I'm a climber's boyfriend.
Today I decided that NO, I would lead first. I wear the harness in this family. After all I had climbed it before, on top-rope, not clean, before I had ever placed a single piece of gear in my life.
First pitch of Bonzo went great. I admit the first little "slab" I had remembered was a bit steeper than I expected, but after regaining composure on the ledge everything was casual. The second pitch starts out surprisingly easy. Even the traverse goes well, no worming, just casual walking along the ledge. As I start the crack I notice the rope is dragging a little on the roof, but not too bad, so I continue. I think I followed the crack too far (over to the tree) and went up. The fatal mistake, as the rope sinks into the crack.
As I clip my anchors into the slings, I feel relieved. I pull the rope to clip it to the anchors, but strangely it won't move. "Slack!" "You've got it!" Still nothing. After 10 minutes of jerking, flipping, whipping, and cursing, I downclimb. I get enough slack to clip in with, climb back up, clip in properly.
The rope is still stuck. At least now I have a top-rope and i can self-belay / rappel down a bit to clean up the pro. The exposure sure is great, huh? Did I mention I'm deathly afraid of heights and the previous (and first time) we did this route (on toprope) I hugged a tree on the summit the entire time because I was afraid a gust of wind or bird would send me plummeting to my death?
At any rate, I realize I'm through climbing this stupid route, and I ask to be lowered. I traverse a bit, still trying to clean up the rope drag. A little barn door, and whooosh. I pendulum across the face, upside down and come to stop with my hand against the opposite wall (Arms of the Rhodo?).
I look down at my belayer, "What do I do?" "Turn rightside up." After some serious discussions, she gets the great idea of the full body stem. I manage to get up off the rope, out of the blank section, above the ground. After deciding that untying was not the best decision (from the full-body-stem) I continue upwards, the slack in the rope increasing, up to the jugs, and get back on route. The rope is still stuck.
I climb Bonzo again. I yank, I curse, I get the rope up. I setup the rappell, and clean on the way down. Getting the last piece in the vertical crack, I barndoor again (quick learner eh?). A slightly more forceful landing on the opposite wall this time. We pack up, descend the first pitch, and enjoy the rain. On the walk back, we enjoy the mood-lighting of dusk.
At least we won a free coke at Miguel's!
Head Games
Head games for me too! Took my first lead fall on gear today, about 15 feet up Vision trying to pass that big dirt clod in the crack. I only fell a few feet, but managed to bang up my pinky finger (I think it was caught between the biner and the rope on the piece that caught me). Not broken but scraped and bruised enough to remind me to keep my hands out of the crack when I'm falling!
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Guest
Scott and Frank were very cool, we had an excellent time Monday. I really dug Vision and Pinstripe (doing Vision, getting done by Pinstripe: I even made the crux, and then fell off the stupid 5.9 slab part before you get to the baby roof). Vision is a very cool route. The first crack is very fun, and then you kind of wander to the top. Feels a lot like vertical hiking.
It was so fun, we went back Wednesday. I even got to practice down-aiding to clean the route real quick like.
We're going to do a few 5.6s at Pistol Friday or Saturday, and then head back to Global Tuesday or Wednesday.
Incidentally, we're all squeezers (I guess?) to do Environmental Impact at Pebble Beach, in case anyone might be heading out that way Derby Fest weekend.
It was so fun, we went back Wednesday. I even got to practice down-aiding to clean the route real quick like.
We're going to do a few 5.6s at Pistol Friday or Saturday, and then head back to Global Tuesday or Wednesday.
Incidentally, we're all squeezers (I guess?) to do Environmental Impact at Pebble Beach, in case anyone might be heading out that way Derby Fest weekend.
