Freeing a Big Wall

Post by **Spragwa** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 9:24 pm

This is Kentucky. Go Cats, Buckeyes are just a bunch of worthless nuts.

Post by **ynp1** » Sat Sep 09, 2006 12:11 am

scott burke freed the great roof, placing all the gear cleanly, but he was on TR. so he did free it, he just did one pitch on TR, which is free climbing just not the purest way.

i dont know if Beth rodden has freed every pitch on lead. when her and tommy did it they took turns leading pitches and the follower cleaned the gear without falling.

big wall free climbing is fucked up. i suggest you all just slam in a few pitons and have some fun! Aid climbing is the purest form of chipping...

Oh yeah... GO HAWKS!

Post by **L K Day** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 1:56 am

Yas, What you described is a Flash.

If you flashed it with no prior knowledge (no beta), it would be On Sight.

If you fell at some point, but still managed to llead every pitch free on a subsequent attempt (free in the conventional sense,lead bottom to top, all pro other than fixed pieces placed on lead) that would be a Red Point.

If one climbed it "free" but only after prepping the route by pre-placing pro, that would be a Pink Point.

Did I get those definitions right? It's been a long time.

I agree that the bottom line is to report exactly how things were done when one claims a free ascent. I think the above terms, with agreed on definitions, are useful shorthand descriptions of style. I think that to describe some of the more "creative" styles as free climbing (top down, use of a top rope for the "leader", etc) stretches things more than just a bit.

Post by **dyno_heaven** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:17 am

come on, who pays attention to pink point? haha es you can fall, every pitch must be led cleanly from the bottom. its like looking at every pitch as an individual climb to be redpointed.

i suggest you all just slam in a few pitons and have some fun!

You can take your itons and slam them in somewhere else!!!

Post by **Meadows** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 12:42 pm

7-Day Bleeder wrote:This is Kentucky. Go Cats, Buckeyes are just a bunch of worthless nuts.

Go Hoosiers!

Woah, seven days, huh?

Post by **Mike Jones** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 12:49 pm

Meadows wrote:
7-Day Bleeder wrote:This is Kentucky. Go Cats, Buckeyes are just a bunch of worthless nuts.
Go Hoosiers!

Woah, seven days, huh?

that's my troll. explains a lot, eh?

Post by **Day** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:55 pm

Is it a hacker or the site manager that fucks with theses posts?

Post by **Yasmeen** » Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:58 pm

It's just a little Freaky Friday-ness.

It'll go back to normal tomorrow.

Thanks for the clarification, Larry!