New Route Guidelines

Post by **J-Rock** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:11 pm

An informal meeting of a group of Muir Valley Route developers took place Saturday evening at the True North Climber's Hostel. Present were Rick Weber, Jared Hancock, JJ, Mark Ryan, Bob Peterson, and Rob Copeland. There was a lot of open discussion and brainstorming on a variety of topics on bolting and route setting. There was general consensus on most issues, including these:

1. We will have frequent get-togethers of MV route setters to discuss development issues in the Valley.

2. The Webers will rarely add or modify a route setting guideline or rule without first getting feedback from as many MV route setters as possible.

3. A variety of glue-in eyebolts will be tested early this year. Rick will loan the epoxy dispenser gun, 5/16" removable bolts, and 5/16" SDS drill bit and provide, free of charge, epoxy and an initial batch of glue-in bolts to developers to develop techniques for bolting steep routes with glue-ins. We've decided on using the Hilti adhesives in conjunction with FIXE 3/8" glue-in eyebolts. Although this combination could change in the future, for a variety of reasons, Weber found this to be the best of the currently available alternatives.

4. Light removal of the rock face in the location of a mechanical (sleeve) bolt was discussed. The reason for doing this is to provide a small area on a steep route that is closer to vertical than the angle of the rock face. This allows a bolt to be placed closer to horizontal than if it were just drilled perpendicular to the rock face. For example, a particular rock face is generally at an angle of 25 degrees from vertical. To bolt perpendicular to this face means the axis of the bolt would be 25 degrees off horizontal. Now, if one were to use the SDS drill's hammer/chisel action and the drill bit to remove a little of the rock above the location of the new hole, the surface angle could be reduced from 25 degrees to say 10 degrees. It was discussed and generally accepted that a mechanical bolt placed at this shallower angle would have less tendancy to be pulled out of its hole. After the discussion, Weber encouraged the developers to modify a steep rock surface in this way whenever possible. Developers should try to keep this area as small as possible -- ideally, just the surface under the hanger bracket.

5. The condition of the emergency/maintenance road was discussed, and due to several areas of deep ruts, Weber asked everyone to stay off the road until dryer weather. Early next year when weather permits, more gravel will be put down on the road and other repairs will be made. Until further notice, approved MV developers may park along the side of the driveway to the Weber's new home and use the shortcut stairs down into the Valley. Later, when the road along the Valley floor is in good shape, this will be the preferred way to get developers' gear near projects, and the Weber's driveway will be closed to general developer parking.

6. The concept of "staking a claim" on a line was discussed, and JJ and others suggested that after a line was chosen and approved by Weber, the developer would have to immediately mark the line with a red tag, and then have one month to start development. Once development starts, the developer would have six months to finish bolting the route. If it is not done in this time, the line would become open to someone else to develop it.

7. Weber reported that the developer's app process was significantly simplified by putting the app on line the internet. Once the blanks are filled out, the pertinent info is captured into a database that can be queried in many different ways. Several route developers will be given admin rights to this database. This new feature should be up and running within a matter of days. The beta version has been tested successfully over the past few weeks in house at Weber's office.

8. Another addition to the Muir Valley website will be a forum that is accessible only by MV route developers. They will be able to go there for MV news and updates and will also be able to post and receive forum-type info and enter into discussions with one another in the same way that posters do now on the RRC forum.

All in all, it was a very good impromtu meeting with lots of good ideas brought up and discussed. We hope to get together frequently during the '06 climbing season. Those interested in developing routes in Muir Valley should contact Rick Weber at rweber@accenttech.com , who will put you in touch with one of the senior developers, who will then give you info on how to get started in the Valley.