"Closed Project" crack???

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:07 pm

It's all about courtesy really. Courtesy and common sense on both sides. I listed the line as a closed project out of respect for Blake but that doesn't mean there is a crag policeman standing there not letting people try it. Personally, I've always given people the "go ahead" on all of my hard crack projects because it makes it that much better when you're the one who finally sends it. You can spray about all the dudes who tried it and couldn't get it. 8)

Post by **rockman** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:44 pm

SCIN wrote:I listed the line as a closed project out of respect ...

Thanks SCIN.

Post by **J-Rock** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 10:24 pm

Good luck Rockman, that crack is beautiful!

Post by **One-Fall** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 11:10 pm

Blake, I'll belay you on it if you teach me how to climb it. I have done one 5.8 crack. Is that enough experience???

By the way, the pics of you on that route are sweet.

Post by **Ultra** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 12:10 am

Blake.....it figures

Post by **the lurkist** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 1:23 am

You know, come to think of it, I never gave Ho the go ahead to get on Snot Rocket. YOU SNAKED MY PROJECT, YOU TURD! (I was planning on doing that thing).
I don't think 15 years is an unreasonable time allotment to ask folks to stay away from a project. Blake, you have plenty of time.

Post by **RRO** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 2:23 am

I hope my post didnt come across wrong. Its public knowledge that Blake is working that line and IMO he deserves the FA on it and will get it soon Im sure. It would take a real dick to do the route without talking to him.

Post by **Ultra** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 2:37 am

blake, consider yourself "talked to"

Post by **Astroman** » Wed Sep 21, 2005 5:45 pm

RRO wrote:It would take a real dick to do the route without talking to him.

Why??

I'm not working on the route and have no plans to... But why isn't the pitch FAIR GAME?? Evidently even Blake considers it so.

Matt never asked or expected Armegeddon to be closed to the rest of the climbing public while he worked on it. Hugh just joked about the need to grant permission to climb a pitch like that... its ridiculous.

Bolted anchors or not, "cleaned" or not, everyone should encourage EVERYONE to get on that beauty... without a being labeled a "real dick" for doing so...

Post by **J-Rock** » Wed Sep 21, 2005 5:50 pm

I think it is an issue of "respect". If somebody else wanted to do the route then they could have taken the time to find it, clean it, and equip it. Blake took on this challenge and he should be allowed to complete it within a given time period before opening it up to the public. In some cases loose rocks might need to be removed, bolts might need to be added, anchors installed, etc. The real question is: How much time should be allowed for a project route before it is opened to the public?