On my 1st trip to the Red (3rd trip outdoors), J-Rock took me to Left Flank. After getting on To Defy, I noted that Too Many Puppies looked like a stellar route and I wanted to get on it. The guys present at the time (I think Hoyne was there too), told me it's a 5.7. Since I can't read routes yet back then, I geared up to lead it when a guy comes along and asked, "Are you leading that? That's the hardest 12a in the Gorge!" Talk about a bunch of liars.
I came back six months later and tried to lead it but couldn't do a reachy move halfway through the route. Since I'm not one to work out routes for 3 months just to say I've climbed it (I hate projecting), I bailed and have never since been back.
Maybe someday.
Emancipate yourself from mental slavery. None but ourselves can free our mind. ~Bob Marley
Hofo, I feel you. I was looking at the old guides in the online "museum" and was surprised at how many climbs were upgraded later. No wonder everyone calls the grades at the Red soft. I say FAers should all get drunk after putting up a new line and give it the lowest grade you can without laughing. RRO knows what I'm talking about. 5.7+ baby!
I agree, RRG ratings are soft. The only place I've ever found where ratings are even softer than here is Red Rocks, NV. All the areas around Boulder are stiffer than the Red, Arizona is stiffer everywhere except the Pit, other SE crags are equivalent or stiffer. I haven't been to Yos, someone else will have to tell us how those ratings compare to here.
I have tried at least 5-6 times to redpoint this route and keep falling short each time. That last clip and move out right are tough for some reason. If someone called it .12b I wouldn't argue one bit. Maybe this year will be different.
"But what is happiness except the simple harmony between a man and the life he leads?" – Lord Byron
Joe Finney wrote:Its been 12a for the longest time, what seems to be the problem. It seems like some people are getting weaker, and they dont want to admit they cant climb 12a. Anyways its just a number..
My name is Christian and I admit ....I cannot climb 12a.
I try to be a good man but all that comes
of trying is I feel more guilty.
Ikkyu
Eric wrote:I have tried at least 5-6 times to redpoint this route and keep falling short each time. That last clip and move out right are tough for some reason. If someone called it .12b I wouldn't argue one bit. Maybe this year will be different.
try what i did? make the move out right first, then make an easy clip at your knees afterwards. you're looking at a clean fall, and don't have to struggle or waste energy on that clip.
Talk about a bunch of liars.