RRC Archives

Some years late November on just gets to be too cold. If you're lucky, you'll find some warm sunny crags. If you're less lucky, you'll find giant icicles dripping everywhere, snow falling while you climb, and cloud cover. If you don't have the sun exposure things tend to get miserable in a hurry. Go...

Cue argument about letting go of self-locking belay device... Which works every time....until it doesn't. The mule knot to the HMS is Petzl approved, takes a yank with the brake hand to undo, and performs the same function as the brake hand. I do it if my partner is in a sit down rest, but not if s...

Cats themselves only cost around $50-100? Hook me up with your dealer. How are they moving them new for the price of salvage value? When I quoted $500-$1200 that was just for parts. The labor was all me. You can buy a cat for your specific vehicle or you can get a 'universal.' The universal is chea...

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/grigri-experience

There are multiple examples of how to kill your partner in there. Maybe you should read it.

Are you kidding me? Seriously? How about if they grab the whole device to hold it open? Pinching the top and bottom would make it VERY easy for a beginner to hold it open. I'm not saying it is just as easy as the original to hold open, but you have to be pretty fucking stupid to believe you CAN'T ho...

pigsteak wrote:If gear is removed because of being to gnar, no one is responsible for replacing it. It was abandoned in the first place. It is merely litter clean up time now.

Agreed. I considered it trash.

So that is where I left those. Lets see, the last time I did OJ was easily 10 years ago... that is a sunny southfacing route. A lot of photons have cooked those for years. Seriously, not mine. I personally have NO compunction about removing old abandoned draws and am not concerned about who they be...

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/mountain//qc-with-kp-from-the-archives-1#VRG https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/mountain//qc-with-kp-from-the-archives-1#testing https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/mountain//qc-with-kp-from-the-archives-1#cave http...

Just kidding, this gear wasn't quite that old. As a matter of fact, some of it was even (relatively) new. Here's the skinny. For more than a year now, there have been some fixed quickdraws up on Orange Juice. NBD, they're all over the Red. We saw them when my partner was out at Funk Rock, getting re...

Clevis, piggy seemed to want your honest opinion. Playing a little game where you refuse to answer the question isn't helpful. If your view of the issue is correct, i.e. the route developers don't know some of the verboten installation methods for the hardware they are using, how can you expect thos...