Mariba Fork

Post by **Justin** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:43 pm

There's a crack system/dihedral between the direct start for The Beach and the Mayor. It starts under an over-hang about 25' left of The Beach at a right-facing finger-flake, goes into an offwidth slot onto a ledge and then climbs a bucket laced, slabby dihedral to a large roof. There were no anchors under the roof which would have been the obvious termination point or belay. Also there was a decent amount of loose rock in key places that lead us to believe it had never beenn climbed before? Just curious if anyone knows? It's actually a quality climb, about 2 stars outta 3, and now has fixed-pro for the decent/belay under the large roof.

Post by **ynot** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 5:58 pm

doesn't make sense to me. the direct start for the Beach and the Mayor are really close. 15 feet or so.

Post by KD » Mon Apr 21, 2008 6:00 pm

i think some guy named roonie did it a few years ago on a soloist.

Post by **512OW** » Mon Apr 21, 2008 6:00 pm

ynot wrote:doesn't make sense to me. the direct start for the Beach and the Mayor are really close. 15 feet or so.

Agreed.

Post by **Justin** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 8:39 am

Well, if I'm correct, The Mayor has a sling anchor tied-off to a fix piton and when we lowered from this line I'm describing, I was able to pan over about 10 feet or so to the anchor on The Major. We top-roped it by pulling our line through it's anchor.

At the base of The Major is an old fire pit and behind the pit is an over-hang. This 'route' I'm describing starts in the right corner of the over-hang?

I was with Jamey Rooney who did the line with me this past Sat.

We did The Beach by the regular start...The one where you traverse left to the hand-crack, and this line is definitely between the two of them.

Go check it out if you get the urge, but I'm fairly certain no one had climbed it before us.

Post by **SCIN** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 1:36 pm

That piton held still? Wow.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 3:29 pm

I just looked at my pictures. There's a low squarish roof between the two where your route starts and just left of the last handcrack of RTB there looks like a flake.
Must be your new line. How hard was it? The flake looks thin.

Post by **Justin** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 5:37 pm

We figured it to be about 5.8? The corner where it starts is really the only thin part...However the last 15 are a little thin gear wise. It actually turned out to be really fun. There's some fixed pro under the roof now, but it should probably be switched out for something else in the future.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 5:52 pm

Sweet! now there's 4 good lines right there in one spot. I really liked Reach the Beach.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Apr 22, 2008 9:04 pm

You could call it "Take Me up the Road?" That was the Mayor's eventual question if he needed a drink.