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Climbing in Senica

Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 10:40 pm
by tdmath2
Going down to Senica for the first time i hear that its stiff, anyone know of some good 5.easy routes preferably enjoyable. im climbing the whole time with someone who hasnt climbed much trad at all

Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 10:44 pm
by ynot
Just do a couple routes first a number or two easier than you are comfortable with.
Theres lots of easy classics. The rock feels a little different at first and theres pitons everywhere. The exposure is way cool when you get a few pitches up.
oh yeah, the guidebook sucks so ask people where your route starts. have a hoagy at the Front Porch afterwards.

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 7:57 am
by L K Day
Idon't know how easy is easy, but I remember West Pole as a very enjoyable route. A fun two-tiered overhang on big holds.

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 8:59 am
by p0bray01
The rock their feels kinda like granite and slippery. Its tuscarora sansdstone. I have been there quite a few times actually. The lower grades are stiff. Once you get higher (like 5.9 and up) they even out. Le gourmet is straightforward and fun,guidebook says 5.4 I give it about a 6. Front C I think is a 6 and the first part feels like a 7. Conn's west is good and is prolly a 4 or 6 in some places. Oldmans route is a solo and its not much harder than 5.4 the whole way. Old Ladies Route is 5.2 but there is like one crazy move thats a bit unnerving for the second (and somewhat for the leader). The Best route (which will scare the shit out of you if you aren't comfy with exposure) is Gunsight to south peak...nothing but air around you. Its prolly a solid 5.4-.5.5. Hope this helps!!! :wink:

When ya going? A buddy of mine and I run up therte often when I get breaks from school. :roll:

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 9:35 am
by phlsphr
In addition to the above: Ecstasy Junior, Candy Corner, and Skyline Traverse are all standards. Old Man's route is one of the easiest ways to the top--I climbed it at night once--that was really, really fun.

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 9:50 am
by kneebar
Bring your helmet............lots of loose rock and parties above you, one of the few places most everybody wears one.

Have a good time!

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 10:24 am
by ynot
yup ,don't forget to wear the helmet. that's rule number one there.

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 1:50 pm
by ewaaser
Ditto on Ecstasy Jr, Old Mans, Skyline, Front C. But the coolest easy route by far is Gunsight to South Peak - easy climb, but terrific exposure. Somebody called it "the scariest 5.4 on the planet".

Be solid on building anchors - it's "build your own" for most of the belay points.

And yes, the guidebook sucks.

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 2:14 pm
by truello
Le Gourmet has bolted anchors for the first 2 pitches. If you finish out on Critter Crack you have to build one. I don't think the 3rd pitch of Le Gourmet is done very often.

Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 2:44 pm
by ynot
Candy Corner and Cons West are good too.