nailing routes in the red

Post by **Danny** » Wed Apr 30, 2003 7:15 pm

I see potential stuff all over but was wondering if there were any suggestions on something that has been done or should be done. I'd love a multipitch nail job. I need to practice for the "real thing". If you don't want to report your pretty piece on here please PM me. The 7 lines in the online guide all seem clean. I haven't checked the hardcopy.

Post by **Johnny** » Wed Apr 30, 2003 11:47 pm

The Red only has clean aid routes. The last time pins were used was in the 70's.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu May 01, 2003 1:55 am

oddly, someone nailed Horny Bitch not too long ago.

The route, not me.

Post by **Danny** » Thu May 01, 2003 4:21 am

Johnny, is that a forest service rule or what? It seems like there must be a bunch of routes that would require pins. I was expecting you to give me a big ass list.

Post by **Wes** » Thu May 01, 2003 11:13 am

Hey, I think most of what has already been done will go clean, but there are lots of new A3 and up routes out there to be done. So, break out the RURP's and beak's. From what I have read and/or heard about, most of the nailing going on out on the big walls is A3 or better, since you can go clean on most easier stuff.

Lynne, did someone leave a pin on HB? If so, that is poor form, and it should be removed.

Wes

Post by **Don McGlone** » Thu May 01, 2003 1:05 pm

I nailed a Horny Bitch just last night.

Post by **Johnny** » Thu May 01, 2003 1:12 pm

I think it's just tradition from the days of clean climbing. Day Dreaming used to be know as The Man Who Fell to Earth or something like that when it was an aid route. You can still see pin scars on it. I think that was the last official aid route using pins, and of course, it went free a long time ago. There have been a few odd pins for mixed routes before bolts were very accepted but they have just been considered archaic. I don't think the FS really has any idea about pins, but I would guess it would fall very closely to being a "fixed" anchor. I'd encourage you to test your skills with hooks, cam hooks, micro wires, and boldness.

Post by **Danny** » Thu May 01, 2003 2:33 pm

Now I'm really motivated to find a route that REQUIRES pins. Thanks for the inspiration!

Post by **Wes** » Thu May 01, 2003 4:00 pm

Actually, the "current" thought is that pins are better then cam hooks in sandstone. Since placing and properly cleaning pins will create a "clean" placement in time, but cam hooks just make this un-usable pod. That is what they are seeing in Zion.

Wes

Post by **Danny** » Thu May 01, 2003 4:45 pm

At the rate this type of aid route will be done at the red, the wind and water will have more effect than the pins.