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I want to build some draws using slings and biners. I've got several Spirits but am wondering what size, type, and make of sling you recommend.

Doing lots more trad so the standard length draw has it's limitations.

Thanks,

People I've climbed with build the sling/biner onto the gear at run-time, but I don't know what length they use, they're usually a couple feet long.

Get some 18 or 24 inch slings for draws / gear. Get a couple 48 inchers for anchor building (or a cordolette). Some of the crusty trad daddies can probably give you more details.

I was first introduced to the concept of quickdraws for trad climbing just before sport climbing came on the scene. In many cases only a short extension off the pro is needed and it is more efficient to pull a short draw racked on your harness than pulling a sling off your shoulder. I like to use sewn webbing or tape for trad draws and have some as short as 12" along with the 16" & 24" variety. Check out Yates for some ideas: http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/slings/index.htm

I may not be crusty or a daddy but I have plenty of trad thoughts. I recommend using 24 inch slings with the binners of your choice, trippled up alpine draw style. So you can quickly use it in its 8 inch mode or expanded in its 24 inch mode. For the sling spectra/dynex is the way to go if you want them to be light. The down side is they will take wear from the rock a bit faster and spectra does not stretch so it is not as good for building anchors. I carry dynamic cord and nylon slings/webbing for making anchors. But thats just me, I am sure other traddies will have their own thoughts.

Yes def shoulder length slings and wire gates on both ends...saves weight and are extendable. I dont keep wires on the bolt end of short draws because i dont want burrs in them but in trad this is of no worry!!!


Im biased to neutrinos and BD slings... but thats just me!

p0bray01 wrote:Yes def shoulder length slings and wire gates on both ends...saves weight

I always hear people talking about saving weight. How much weight is actually saved, and are you convinced this makes a difference?

I personally don't think that it makes a difference. Then again I don't climb hard trad routes. Your already lugging up all the gear, the weight you save on the biners will probably not be felt unless you are climbing at your limit, even then it seems questionable.

Here we go, this is sure to start a rant from someone.

For example, the BD Dynotron (solid gate) and the LiveWire (wire gate) aside from the gate differences they are almost the same binner. The Dynotron is 1.80oz and the LiveWire is 1.60oz. That is only a differnce of 0.2 per binner but if you have 10 slings, each with 2 binners on them, and lets say 10 more binners for various racking purposes; you have 30 binners total and a weight difference of 6oz. That's nearly half a pound, just by switching binners. You could probably save an additional 6oz by picking the rest of you gear carfully. That is a total weight savings of around 1.2 lbs or half a Couric!

Or you could just take a crap before going for the send, you could drop a few Courics all at once.


Better yet, just man up, find you nuts, and climb with whatever you have. You will build the necessary strength to carry it.

It's the same thing with ultralight backpacking, a few ounces here, a few ounce there... it does add up. What you really need to consider is the cost of shaving weight off of your gear and ask yourself if it's really worth it to you.

Yeah I agree with Macgyver....I used to climb with solid Dynotrons for everyting....they are kinda heavy when u add em all up. Lately tho I have been climbing with Neutrinos and trangos superflys....(which are almost too light)


But Yeah....taking a dump and doing some cardio will aid in the weight loss process as well