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"The precise amount of caffeine necessary to produce effects varies from person to person depending on body size and degree of tolerance to caffeine. It takes less than an hour for caffeine to begin affecting the body and a mild dose wears off in three to four hours. Consumption of caffeine does not eliminate the need for sleep: it only temporarily reduces the sensation of being tired. With these effects, caffeine is an ergogenic: increasing the capacity for mental or physical labor. A study conducted in 1979 showed a 7% increase in distance cycled over a period of two hours in subjects who consumed caffeine compared to control tests. Other studies attained much more dramatic results; one particular study of trained runners showed a 44% increase in "race-pace" endurance, as well as a 51% increase in cycling endurance, after a dosage of 9 milligrams of caffeine per kilogram of body weight. The extensive boost shown in the runners is not an isolated case; additional studies have reported similar effects. Another study found 5.5 milligrams of caffeine per kilogram of body mass resulted in subjects cycling 29% longer during high intensity circuits."

from wikipedia which isn't a very good source but there is plenty out there on the subject.

do you think that a climber's endurance is affected by caffeine the same way that a runners is?

I think the real question would be what does caffeine affect more, aerobic exercise, such as running, or anaerobic exercise, which seems to be more prevelant in climbing, especially with routes that have a lot of big moves. As far as anaerobic is concerned, I am certain that caffeine has a short-term positive effect. So, I think that on a long route caffeine might not be a good idea, it would probably just make you poop, after all it is a natural diuretic, but on routes around the red, you might see some increase if you do not use too much (you be the judge of that) and are not climbing all day.

Check out the March issue of Mens Health mag. Short article on the hows and whys of effects of caffeine

seems to me you can eat right execise and sleep well to attain the same effects without the ppllution of the mind and body. of course I am guilty of caffine use myself. just last night I had a red bull at the gym. however I have over active Beta receptors in my heart which causes my heart rate to beat abnormally fast. I am supposed to be on medication for it but lets just say the side effects sucked. So if I drink too much caffine its like I've taken too many allergy pills. I get sweaty shakey and can hardly stand. so caffine is kinda my enemy but I love it. so all that crap being said. Moderation is the best way to go and a healthy diet and execise will do you much better than amping up on caffine.


this is just my non-medical dumbass opinion take it for what its worth..... not much.

Don't you have to have a rainbow flag on your car to get a subscription to Men's Health?

I drink it in the morning just like I always do, but I do notice that if I bring coffe in my thermos and drink it all day I get a bit of a caffeine head ache and usually climb worse. But if I combine 1 caffeinated tee bag with 2 non caffeinated tee bags that usually keeps me warm and does not seem to affect my climbing.

After a couple cups of coffee in the morning, switch over to meth & vitamin water while at the crag.

It just makes your legs shake like Elvis.

yeah but so does not switching over to meth.