RRC Archives

I have heard that a well rounded climber will have a full grade between your best onsight versus highest redpoint. I have also heard the Red named as being a place where people onsight a little higher than normal. I was wondering if that was actually true or just a underhanded way of calling the grades at the Red soft.

Maybe one of you computer wiz kids could extrapolate this info from the Spray section.

One letter grade sits between my highest onsite at the Red and my highest redpoint.

How very concise SCIN.

Do you feel like this is a problem or just a result of the Red being "easier" when it comes to onsights?

Since I don't count the lone 12a on my spraylist as a real 12a then my highest onsite and redpoint are the same grade, 5.11d. I'm one of those people that is on the redpoint burn everytime my feet leave the ground so it is probably always going to be that way for me. My personal opinion is that the Red seems consistent with other places I've traveled. Of course that is only in the moderate range that I climb in. So, if the Red is considered soft maybe it's only in those upper grades? What do I know, I'm a jer.

I have full number grade between mine.

However, I have spent a great deal of time projecting red points. And I have put little effort into onsighting, usually trying new routes at the end of the day, spent, after working on a project.

bcombs wrote:Since I don't count the lone 12a on my spraylist as a real 12a then my highest onsite and redpoint are the same grade, 5.11d. I'm one of those people that is on the redpoint burn everytime my feet leave the ground so it is probably always going to be that way for me. My personal opinion is that the Red seems consistent with other places I've traveled. Of course that is only in the moderate range that I climb in. So, if the Red is considered soft maybe it's only in those upper grades? What do I know, I'm a jer.

I took the bait. I peeked at your ticklist. Crack the Whip? Not a real 12? Dude have you been to Muir Valley? This is nowhere near the easiest 12a around. Give yourself a little credit.

You think your highest redpoint and onsight will always be the same? Good luck with that one. That seems like a tough bill to fill unless you purposely chose not to redpoint stuff.

JR wrote:Dude have you been to Muir Valley? This is nowhere near the easiest 12a around. Give yourself a little credit....

Can you give me some names? I need the points.

JR wrote:You think your highest redpoint and onsight will always be the same? Good luck with that one. That seems like a tough bill to fill unless you purposely chose not to redpoint stuff.

If I don't progress far into the 5.12's then I think it will stay the same. My mode of climbing has always been kill yourself on the onsite attempt. So if I continue that then likely they will be the same since I'm bound to stumble onto an easily onsightable (?) 12a /12b. However, if I can get into 12+ then maybe it can't be that way. I've been gaining about 1-2 letter grades a year so 'll get back to you in 2010.

JR wrote:How very concise SCIN.

Do you feel like this is a problem or just a result of the Red being "easier" when it comes to onsights?

I think the Red is equivalent to other areas in the south when it comes to onsiting. Sandstone tends to be easier to onsite than limestone. I wouldn't really relate it to the area but to the type of rock instead.

Is it harder to onsight limestone because it is harder to see the chalk?

bcombs wrote:Can you give me some names? I need the points.

Go to Muir, try Beef Stick and Possy Whipped, then try wild yet tasty at left flank, they may be a little harder than crack the whip, but they are really fun ego boosters