Jungle Beat

Post by **bcombs** » Thu Jan 31, 2008 2:37 pm

Jungle Beat is on my short list of must do trad climbs. Can anyone offer up some beta on gear and how you pulled the crux moves coming into the 2nd pitch? It's hard being a gumby tard climber.

Post by **dbrayack** » Thu Jan 31, 2008 3:06 pm

OK...its pretty easy really, but the biggest problem is rope drag at the 215' mark (third pitch). Its easy climbing there, definitely not the crux, you may want to consider using double ropes.

Also, the fixed copper head right off the 4th pitch is a bitch SKETCH, I backed it up with a knotted sling (all I had was my Miurias, and a knife). It might still be there, not sure though - maybe someone bootie it.

Make sure you bring two full racks, and especially a key double set of #11 hexes for protecting the crux at the 5th pitch..its definitely worth it to haul the cow bells all the way up for it.

Anyways, I've never even seen the route, but I hear its cool and look forward to hearing about it

-Danno

Post by **charlie** » Thu Jan 31, 2008 3:12 pm

Put some gear in the crack, make sure you're on belay, pull through the roof, get yer feet on, place a piece, don't weight the shrubbery too much.

It rocks, it takes gear, it's a clean fall. You'll be fine.

Post by **bcombs** » Thu Jan 31, 2008 3:31 pm

dbrayack wrote:...Anyways, I've never even seen the route, but I hear its cool and look forward to hearing about it...

Yawn

Post by **bcombs** » Thu Jan 31, 2008 3:32 pm

charlie wrote:It rocks, it takes gear, it's a clean fall. You'll be fine.

Thanks Charlie. I'm probably heading over there this weekend. Should be a trip!

Brad

Post by **pawilkes** » Thu Jan 31, 2008 4:22 pm

coming out of the roof is a bit intimidating but not super bad. i had REALLY bad rope drag in the crack which required some pretty sketchy climbing higher up, so my biggest tip is to be careful with rope drag on the second pitch. maybe have your belayer slide out along the belay cave a bit so the rope goes straight up. good luck!

Post by **L Day** » Thu Jan 31, 2008 6:26 pm

If the belayer pays out lots of slack you'll have no problem with rope drag

Gear? #1, 2, & 3 Friends, hexes and stoppers worked fine for me, nothing special.

There's one hard move coming out of the cave. Crank hard, get your feet up, and it's done. Have fun.

Post by **ynot** » Thu Jan 31, 2008 7:57 pm

I have asked for beta on the same route and get about the same results. So should you set up a hanging belay at the lip to prevent the rope drag? I did the route next to it (totaly not worth it) and got a good look at the whole route but didn't have enough gear at the time for Jungle beat. If you need a partner for it after it warms up a bit, I would be overjoyed to follow it before I give it a try.

Post by **L Day** » Thu Jan 31, 2008 8:06 pm

Our belay on the FA was well back in the cave. I may have protected the crux move with a stopper wedged near the bottom of the crack, wish I could remember for sure. Perhaps that kept the rope from getting pinched in the crack. In any event I had no problem at all with drag.

Post by **charlie** » Thu Jan 31, 2008 8:52 pm

Set a belay on the ledge, tons of options, 2nd pitch ain't very long to the little shrubbery so think about the drag and don't sweat it. Finger sizes as you get vertical in the crack so kinda smaller nuts/cams for the first 10 ft or so around the corner. Last pitch is hella long and wanders a bit, so it's rope draggy on the topout. Be smart about it.

[movebeta]look up as you pull the roof for a decent crimper on the right side. air it out, and yank to get your feet on. there's a piece at your waist when you pull the roof so don't sally out, just do it!!!!![/movebeta].

Thanks for that one Larry, one of my favorite lines in the Gorge.