So, I know Southern Germany is close to many rad places (alps!) but has anyone climbed at the Frankenjura? Is it an awesome place that is worth checking out if you had 2 1/2 weeks or is it a washed up bolt clipping area of times gone by. I have a place to stay in Munich and distant contacts. Would Ceuse be a better bet for a euro adventure or anywhere else? I've watched all the footage of all the guys doing action direct but is there plenty for the climber in the low to mid twelve range to be excited about?
Take into account that this trip would be planned to coincide with Oktoberfest.
Thanks for any help.
Frankenjura???
Going there in October. Can't wait! Do you know Frank and Mandy Byron? Well, they've been there for some time now and really dig the climbing. They say most of the lines are short and bouldery. Very subtle movements are sometimes required to stick the moves (ie a thumb repositioning could be the difference between sending and not). The 13s are super super hard and usually require some sketchiness because it's so hard to hold on to make the clips which are run out to begin with. The climbing is all over the place and new routes go up like mad. You should definitely go from what I hear.
I just ordered a bunch of pockets for my gym to train for the area. So psyched!
I just ordered a bunch of pockets for my gym to train for the area. So psyched!
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!
-Horatio
-Horatio
-
the lurkist
- Posts: 2240
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm
I went to the White Rocks (Wisenstein, er somethin...) I did the 12a that made up a fourth of the circuit that Gullich used to do. He would climb up this 12a, traverse the top, down climb another harder route, and then traverse the bottom (Vhard) and up again. I heard he would do 20 laps on this.
It was a good route. The place is really pretty. Very green and looks a lot like Ky, without and trailers or trash. Kind of like a well kept park.
It was a good route. The place is really pretty. Very green and looks a lot like Ky, without and trailers or trash. Kind of like a well kept park.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Normie
I've heard of Frank and Mandy but don't know them personally. I'm excited as hell about it too! I've heard some of the same things about the climbing there and the info i have found out is that most lines are on the shorter side. When in October are you heading out? From what I hear Oktoberfest starts in mid-late September and ends in the first week of October.
Now isn't really the best time to head to Europe with the exchange rates but I figure having a place to stay will cut down on costs. The forest that surrounds the Frankenjura looks beautiful and I've found a couple nice looking campsites.
Now isn't really the best time to head to Europe with the exchange rates but I figure having a place to stay will cut down on costs. The forest that surrounds the Frankenjura looks beautiful and I've found a couple nice looking campsites.
all you haters die slow.
check on the weather first. Early October can be good and can be crap. It depends a lot on the year.
Not all climbs are short and bouldery. There are some 5.12s which are 120 ft and longer.
With 800 cliffs and 8000+ routes there is plenty to pick from.
Ceuse would be my favorite area in France if it wasn´t for the 45 min uphill hike and the crowds.
Not all climbs are short and bouldery. There are some 5.12s which are 120 ft and longer.
With 800 cliffs and 8000+ routes there is plenty to pick from.
Ceuse would be my favorite area in France if it wasn´t for the 45 min uphill hike and the crowds.
Sebastian
2009
2009
Sebastians right, as we all have seen after Rocktoberfest you never know about the weather these days. It could be really bad or it could be really good. If you've got 2.5 weeks, I'm sure you will have some good weather. You can check out www.climb.frankenjura.com to get an overview of the area and if you query how many mid to low 5.12s there are here (8+ to 9) you get 1393 routes so I'm sure there is plenty for you to do here. Plus I think that guide doesn’t even have all the routes in it.
The climbing is 'generally' short and bouldery but there are some longer routes. Predominantly small pockets and technical footwork. Beautiful euro countryside with neat, historic little villages everywhere and great restaurants, castles, museums etc. Plenty to do.
However, if you want to go check out somewhere else in Europe just to do some travelling and adventuring there are many other places easier/better than Ceuse. I would recommend Gorge du Tarn or Rodellar or Siurana or Font as having way more climbing and much easier access.
Have a great trip!
FrankB
The climbing is 'generally' short and bouldery but there are some longer routes. Predominantly small pockets and technical footwork. Beautiful euro countryside with neat, historic little villages everywhere and great restaurants, castles, museums etc. Plenty to do.
However, if you want to go check out somewhere else in Europe just to do some travelling and adventuring there are many other places easier/better than Ceuse. I would recommend Gorge du Tarn or Rodellar or Siurana or Font as having way more climbing and much easier access.
Have a great trip!
FrankB
I'm going to the Frankenjura in May for the first time so I can't comment first hand on that but I'm stoked. I've heard very few bad things about it.
I have climbed a good bit at Ceuse in September. I thought conditions were perfect. The crowds had mostly moved on and you climb in the sun or shade depending on your preference. If you're traveling solo, there may be days where you can't find a partner...particularly if you're working routes in a certain sector (its a pretty long, continuous cliff). Our first day we hiked up at sector Biographie and walked all the way to sector Cascade and didn't see another person. The hike sort of sucks but it's a beautiful place once you get above the trees. One comment though, IMO the classic 7a-7b+(11d-12c) routes were few and far between. There are definitely some classic ones (super mickey, blocage violent, Bibendum, Galaxy, Lapiniere), but the really good routes (again IMO) were 7c or harder.
We went to Rodellar 2 years ago in September and loved it. Sort of like taking all the sport routes at the Red and putting them in 1 beautiful canyon and then throwing in a bunch of super hard ones as well. Lots of tufas (Ceuse has very little tufa climbing if you're into that), lots of angles, closer spaces bolts, and easy logistics. There are 2 campgrounds very close to Rodellar, both have a small bar/restaurant and nice facilities.
Kalymnos is also super good but it may be getting crowded? I was there in Oct 2004 and had a very nice time. Easy scene, lots of good steep routes at many grades, great tufa/blob climbing, very little polish, and a pretty setting.
Have a good trip!
I have climbed a good bit at Ceuse in September. I thought conditions were perfect. The crowds had mostly moved on and you climb in the sun or shade depending on your preference. If you're traveling solo, there may be days where you can't find a partner...particularly if you're working routes in a certain sector (its a pretty long, continuous cliff). Our first day we hiked up at sector Biographie and walked all the way to sector Cascade and didn't see another person. The hike sort of sucks but it's a beautiful place once you get above the trees. One comment though, IMO the classic 7a-7b+(11d-12c) routes were few and far between. There are definitely some classic ones (super mickey, blocage violent, Bibendum, Galaxy, Lapiniere), but the really good routes (again IMO) were 7c or harder.
We went to Rodellar 2 years ago in September and loved it. Sort of like taking all the sport routes at the Red and putting them in 1 beautiful canyon and then throwing in a bunch of super hard ones as well. Lots of tufas (Ceuse has very little tufa climbing if you're into that), lots of angles, closer spaces bolts, and easy logistics. There are 2 campgrounds very close to Rodellar, both have a small bar/restaurant and nice facilities.
Kalymnos is also super good but it may be getting crowded? I was there in Oct 2004 and had a very nice time. Easy scene, lots of good steep routes at many grades, great tufa/blob climbing, very little polish, and a pretty setting.
Have a good trip!
I just got back from a week and a half of climbing in the Frankenjura and have to say I really enjoyed the area. Good beer, large variety in angles/grades/styles, tons of pockets, good cakes, good beer, rock everywhere, super nice folks, easy camping, and good beer. I'm still recovering from shoulder surgery so I didn't do anything overly difficult but super hard routes (and climbers) abound.
The first few days we had sunny weather in the 70's with lows in the upper 40s then the weather turned and we hard some rain and highs in the 50s and lows in the 30s. Even when it was raining/misting we found plenty of places to climb. Most of the people we met including the nice lady who runs the campground seemed surprised that americans were visiting. I guess there's not that many of us heading over there these days which is a shame as it's a really cool place.
Ray, did you buy a guidebook yet? I've got the select guide that's written in english which it's pretty good. You're welcome to borrow it for your trip. I should be coming up the Red either this weekend or sometime next week if you want to get any more specific info.
--Brent
The first few days we had sunny weather in the 70's with lows in the upper 40s then the weather turned and we hard some rain and highs in the 50s and lows in the 30s. Even when it was raining/misting we found plenty of places to climb. Most of the people we met including the nice lady who runs the campground seemed surprised that americans were visiting. I guess there's not that many of us heading over there these days which is a shame as it's a really cool place.
Ray, did you buy a guidebook yet? I've got the select guide that's written in english which it's pretty good. You're welcome to borrow it for your trip. I should be coming up the Red either this weekend or sometime next week if you want to get any more specific info.
--Brent