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I have discovered a new type of weight training which gives very large gains in a short period of time. The idea is to work muscles that are opposed back to back. When working one muscle the opposing one is not in use. So short 5 rep sets alternating between two different exercises allows one to do a phenomenal amount of work without taking a break. One alternates between these two exercises for 15 minutes while keeping track of their sets. The next day that this group of exercises is done one tries to beat their previous record. It is very intense, but gains are seen within a couple of workout sessions. One is also forced to keep track of all of their workouts so gains are well documented. It is definitely worth trying if you want to cut fat and build muscle quickly. I thought this would be very relevant to rock climbing as increasing muscle to bodyfat ratio is of paramount importance in this sport. I personally have had phenomenally quick success with this technique. It eliminates time normally "wasted" resting between sets and guarantees that the level of work steadily increases.

http://www.amazon.com/Muscle-Logic-Esca ... 1594860831

Explain how a large amount of muscle is going to help you? 5 rep sets, after you are no longer skinny or relatively weak, is going to lower your strength to weight ratio as you get bigger and bigger. None of the world's best climbers are what bodybuilders would consider big. It could help you for bouldering, but again, only to a certain extent.

The point of view you are expressing is myth. Work is work. 10 reps of 100 pounds is the same as 20 reps of 50 pounds. The amount of work is the same and the net effect is the same. High reps and low weights do not blow one up. The point here is that time is efficiently used exercising, not waiting to exercise, and one is constantly pushing forward. It drastically speeds the metabolism and eliminates fat. This creates a higher strength to bodyweight ratio. Personally I am using 40 pound dumbbells. Do you think that I am weak? This technique was pioneered for bodybuilding, but is effective for any type of athlete, particularly if you want to eliminate fat. It can be used by bodybuilders and often is...to cut fat. Most bodybuilders today will tell you that EDT will make one skinny, so most of them avoid it like the plague. It is also used by athletes of all types and sorts who want to increase strength and lose fat. I am still about 30 pounds overweight (I have lost 150 pounds in the last 18 months), and it is a very useful tool. Bodybuilders tend towards the 3 set rest, 3 set rest paradigm. Either that or they use HIT. There is no doubt that bringing ones body fat down to less than 10% would be a boon to any athlete.
This is an informative article on the subject of using EDT for fat loss:
http://staleytraining.com/articles/the_ ... y_changes/
It is worth noting that EDT is also commonly used with bodyweight exercises alone with no weights. Creative people use tools like this and adapt them to their own goals. There is no cookie cutter plan. It is worth noting that I do yoga as well as run 5 miles daily because I do not feel that any ONE plan alone is a catch all.

Atl wrote:The point of view you are expressing is myth. Work is work. 10 reps of 100 pounds is the same as 20 reps of 50 pounds. The amount of work is the same and the net effect is the same. High reps and low weights do not blow one up.

Which is it, work is work or high reps and low weight will not blow one up? If work is work, then high reps with low weight will be the same as low reps with high weight.

I personally like to sit on my left butt cheek for 5 minutes at a time before getting up to get some chocolate, and then landing back down on the right cheek for 5 minutes. I find it helps keep them equally rounded. For my arms I like to pick up a 750ml bottle of Brendan's and do reps in between my nightly ritual of dipping Oreos in a glass of said beverage. Leg lifts are a matter of simply kicking my ferrets off of the coffee table all night (switching legs between kicks). Finally, I've found that a good way to stretch my arms out before falling asleep on the couch is to reach over my shoulder and pat myself on the back for having resolved to work out more this year.

Bodybuilders gain mass by putting on weight by eating a surplus of calories (with lots of protein) while working out. Diet and exercise guarantee that the weight is put on as muscle. If one creates a deficit of calories while working out and maintaining a healthy diet fat will be lost, and mass will not be gained. If one loses fat and then gains muscle, strength is increased without increasing bulk. Bulk is created by purposefully gaining lots of weight with calories. Weight training causes the weight to come on as muscle. Weight lifting alone will not do this. My statement that you quoted is accurate. Weights don't create the mass...calories do. It must be noted that muscle gain and fat loss are not simultaneous. It is either one or the other. So, you cut fat or build muscle in cycles. EDT can be used for both cycles by adjusting diet. Diet IS the controlling factor depending on what your goal is. I am also not talking about high reps with low weight. EDT is based on moderate weight and high reps (do you call 40 lb concentration curls low weight?). It is a strength training technique. I suggest you read about weight training and how it functions so that you can engage in informed conversations about it as well as utilize it.

"The best way to get better at climbing is to climb."

-Odub

The best way to do anything is to practice it. Being lean and strong will not make you better at anything automatically. Tell me, though, who would have an easier time learning the skills...a strong healthy person or a weak unhealthy one? As for me climbing is a past time, and one of several that I have. It is not a religion.

heidiramma:
that type of workout worked great for me until I passed 30.

Atl wrote:The best way to do anything is to practice it. Being lean and strong will not make you better at anything automatically. Tell me, though, who would have an easier time learning the skills...a strong healthy person or a weak unhealthy one? As for me climbing is a past time, and one of several that I have. It is not a religion.

But the weak, unhealthy person would have the advantage. They'd get strong and healthy by climbing. By the time the strong guy got around to climbing, weak boy would be sending 12's.