RRC Archives

There will be a catastrophic bolt failure this year, where someone gets really hurt. The big question is where?

Could be one of the new routes in the choss rock, could be a lode route, could be anchors on an old trad route, but I think my money is on FRC. Those are some of the older bolts, they see some moisture, and they see more falls then the older bolts out 9a/b way. I have seen some of the stud bolts rusted and worn 4/5 of the way though, and watched them snap off with a flick of the wrist on the ratchet.

Those routes need to be fixed. Capn Static? What say you?

Until someone invents a drill that can be leg powered, who's going to go out there and hand drill that many holes? What if we organized some sort of bolt replacement day where people volunteer to go out and help drill the holes?

Maybe we ask for a one day pass to let us go out and power drill, just to replace bolts.

It could potentially save lives.

So could closing the crag

Thats why we ask nicely, Tree Boy.

disclaimer: Horatio, you can skip this post since it contains yet more of my oh so boring questions

exactly how many "catastrophic bolt failure(s)" have there been in the gorge since bolting began? and wes, what makes 2008 the year of bolt failure? anything specific about this year that's different than the others?

I think there have been two bolt failures in the RRG proper, and maybe a couple that may not have failed in muir, but that came out or something goofy like that. Though I don't know if anyone was really hurt, except maybe the one on sand? Buster might know more about that.

Each year that goes by, the hardware weakens and weakens. And, in many cases, you are starting with the cheapest hardware that could be bought (or made) to start with. Many of the more well traveled routes have had at least one round of new hardware, but most of the older areas are sporting bolts that could be 15+ years old, and they are in areas that get wet, which seems to really speed things along. And, you have a lot of new routes going up on choss, so you have that factor as well. Maybe with a couple years of use and freeze thaw, some of those new bolts might be worse of then the older ones.

I kinda doubt that a full anchor set with fail, but I would not at all be surprised if a bolt break or pulls from a short fall, or even body weight this year. Unless, of course, they are all replaced. Which I doubt will happen anytime soon.

I wonder what the "other" crags are? I messed up, and put Pistol Ridge, rather then Purple valley, so take that into consideration as well.

Purple valley is definitely my vote....and why can't bolts be replaced with a power drill? How could one even tell after the fact if the hole was drilled by hand or drill? My vote is for safety....

Power drill are only banned in wilderness areas - FRC, Wall of Denial, Tower??, Eagle point buttress, etc. All the other crags power drills are OK.

And, yeah, there is some serious mank at Purple Valley.

michaelarmand wrote:Purple valley is definitely my vote....and why can't bolts be replaced with a power drill? How could one even tell after the fact if the hole was drilled by hand or drill? My vote is for safety....