RRC Archives

So, I was lying awake last night scratching myself, and I was thinking about what it really takes to climb a grade- 5.10, 5.11, 5.12, 5.13 etc...
I mean, it is sort of enigmatic what degree of physical fitness is required to climb "hard" (whatever that means- obviously relative to each of us).
We individually might hold differing opinions on what is the crucial aspect of fitness to climb harder. Someone might think forearm power and the ability to squeeze small holds harder is the answer, someone else might think being really flexible is key, still others might think aerobic conditioning is key...

So, my questiion is, if you take a rank amateur who has never climbed, but is otherwise of reasonable fitness and is decent puddy for molding, (I youngish person who is not obese but might not be able to do more than 1-2 pull ups), if they apply themselves, how long will it take them to ascend to the grades I mentioned above?
I figure this is a really good place to ask, as there is a disparate level of climbers, but probably all are in the process of their own ascension...
What do you think?

Just watch Jo. See how long it takes her. She's got the climbing bug.

my buddy did his first 12 within a year.
most traddies only do 9+ after 30 years.
it took me two years to get over(manage) my fear of hieghts and starting progressing, then i found booze and said fudge the rest.


8.5 years. final answear.

I know two people who have done V8 within a year, and about three people who have climbed 5.12 within a year. I know a kid who will do v9 and 5.13 this year which will be less than two years he is 18.

This may sound odd, but I think most of it depends on whats happening in your life.

Girlfriend/boyfriend adds a year.
Living somewhere with no rock and no gym for long periods of time adds a lot of time.
Kids adds a year, unless you use my program.
Married adds two years sometimes more.
Weight adds a year
Demanding job adds a year or two.

Having no life, a good gym, and a place to climb outside is the perfect recipe.

I think alot is about staying uninjured. every time I start progressing I break or sprain something.

ynot, you're silly.

my background was long-distance rollerblading. I was "in shape," but had no upper body at all. It took me 14 months of climbing before i could do ONE pull up. Even now, i don't think i could do more than 2.

took me just under 1 year to lead some under-rated 10a's. i might get an easy 10c this weekend and that will be at about 1.5 years.

but i think beginning men excell through the 10's and 11's much faster than beginning women just bec they tend to have more upper-body strength.

i think when it comes to 12's and 13's there's technique involved - especially in 13's - and, while physically strong climbers can muscle their way up some 12's - there comes a point where the physical strength alone isn't going to work.

I don't think it's strength that holds people back, it's their heads. The person you describe (someone not of mutant strength), as long has she/he is consistent with the training, could see 12s within a couple of years or less.

But it seems the amount of time to see a 5.10, 5.11, 5.12 keeps dropping from one generation to the next.

Yep Meadows. The mental side is as important a anything. Have to be able to put all the horsepower to the pavement.

I once knew a guy who started doing v4's in about 7 months. by 1 year, he had some kind of nasty tendon pain in his hands. I think that's what happens when 30 year old try to push the numbers too fast - injury.

I'm sure some people can get to 13 in a year, but if you do...be careful with your fingers, they may not be ready yet.

As for me, It took me about 3 years of sporadic top-roping before I could even do 5.10. If you're not a naturally skinny person, you can force yourself to lose weight, but its tough to keep the pounds off, so I'd say weight is the biggest factor.

asdf