Anchor Point Question

Post by **Atl** » Tue Jan 01, 2008 10:00 am

There is a cliff near where I live that I am going to try to top rope today. One of the anchors that I want to use is way far up the hill from the ledge. Is it acceptable and safe to join 2 separate 20 foot pieces of webbing with a water knot to make the distance over the ledge for the anchor? I know more knots = more weak points, but what is the limit? Thanks in advance for the info.

Post by **Buster** » Tue Jan 01, 2008 10:18 am

I don't see a problem with that setup as ONE element of your anchor. The main thing to think about is redundancy. Never rely on just one anchor. It sounds like you know that already however from the wording of your description.
A knot joining two pieces of webbing is ok I think. Just remember and be aware of the fact that tubular webbing is more prone to being cut under load. If you are aware of tubular webbing's limitations in this regard you should be fine though.

Post by **Atl** » Tue Jan 01, 2008 10:26 am

I will use 2 anchor points. The one I asked about is absolutely bomber. That is why I wanted to use it. Since it is top rope no long falls will occur, so the anchors will be stressed minimally.

Post by **Buster** » Tue Jan 01, 2008 10:53 am

Right.

Post by **rockman** » Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:00 pm

Also remember the longer the webbing, the more stretch it has. You need to take this into account as you may be weighting and unweighting the load, and rubbing the webbing over the edge.

Not a prob, just take it into account.

Post by **Atl** » Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:10 pm

That is sort of unavoidable, but I do have redundancy.

Post by **ElectricDisciple** » Tue Jan 01, 2008 1:06 pm

two acronysms to remember about anchors:

1. SERNE (from How to Rock Climb series)
S olid
E qualized
R edundant
N o
E xtension.

2. ERNST
E qualized
R edundant
N o Extension
S olid
T imely

As for points on the anchor, you might want to have more than two. This falls under the redundant category. Many anchors have three points, maybe four. And yes, do watch for ropes and webbing being made to rub on rocks, sand, sharp edges, etc. If you have a situation like this it would be a good idea to use a couple old carpet sqares, padding or something to prevent the webbing sawing back and forth.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Jan 01, 2008 2:34 pm

leave 3 inch at least, tails on the water knots and check them periodicly

Post by **ElectricDisciple** » Tue Jan 01, 2008 2:54 pm

any thought on using cordelettes instead of webbing?

Post by **Atl** » Tue Jan 01, 2008 6:17 pm

I always leave lots of tail on my knots, but thanks for the reminder. I have no illusions about my mortality.